26

(2 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Make sure you are not going to pull the pin out with the cunningham. Some just have a cotter pin on the bottom. On mine, the hole in the pin is enlarged and a clevis goes through it.
Rather than use the same loop for reefing, attach one end of another short rope to the hole in the neck and use it to reef. It is always there attached to the boom and when you remove the reef the original tack loop is already there still in place and correctly adjusted. I have three ropes. As I take out each reef the previous reef is still in place and ready to go.

27

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Mine is mounted under the floor board in the V-berth cut-out area. It is near the aft and on the side. It reads very similar on both tacks and it can not be damaged since there is usually nothing stored there unlike under the quarter berths.

I installed a traveller just forward of the cockpit lockers. It works great,. But... Its a bit of a hassle to step over all the time. It reduces seating. Two spots available rather than three. When you are off the wind then the sheet gets in the way of the forward lee seat unless the traveller car is eased to lee. These problems are not a big issue to me since I am single handed, but I you are two people then they become an issue and if you are three or more then it is a huge hassle.

31

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

32

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

The corner of my asymetric clips onto the shroud and a rope goes down to a pulley on the stemhead and then back to the cockpit so the height of the tack can be adjusted.

33

(6 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

34

(17 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

The English Contessa has a boom that is longer and a mast that is shorter than the Canadian Contessa.

35

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

One advantage would to be able to open them up to inspect for rust every few years. I had a shroud that started breaking strands at sea, even though there were no signs of rust from outside of the swag.  After it was replaced, destructive testing showed that there was sever rust damage down inside the swag. They were 25 years old with some salt water years.

If you are unsure of the strength, you could add an additional beam under the mast step. I added a beam to mine. See pic. It is a laminated oak beam Approx 2" x 2". It is bolted from the aft side through the glass beam, the plywood bulkhead and through the oak beam. You can see some of the black bolt heads in the pic. Someone else has added some pics of a similar installation showing the forward side. Do a search for "beam" in the galley section. Before the beam, the rigging would be loose after the first time sailing in hard conditions each year due to the roof sagging. My setup has two transatlantic crossings on it without a problem.

On the outside, the pop rivets are hidden under the aluminum rub rail. There is chaulking under it to seal all the holes. My bow has a small indentation in the gelcoat that seems to be where the two halves meet. It is not a structural problem since there is glass on the inside to re-enforce the joint. The chain plates need chaulking at the deck level on the outside every few years. The movement of the two parts and the heating/cooling of two different materials makes the chaulk break way from the chain plate. I have not had any delamination in that area of the deck.

Dzus fasteners are available at Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. The have an outlet in Ontario. They will sell in much smaller quantities.

If you are cruising, I would suggest an automatic electric eye switch for the anchor light. It was common for me to go away from the boat in the afternoon with full intent on getting back to the boat before dark and then before you know it, its 10pm and you are still sitting on someones boat or restaurant. On one occasion I went to a beach party with only my prescription sunglasses. On heading home in the dark, I ended up motoring around the crowded anchorage. I could not make out my boat with the dark glasses on and I could see any boat with the glasses off.

43

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

Sorry I was a little vague on the electric crane. It's the marina's 40+ foot tall crane mounted on land with a rotating arm.

I know lots of people who have brought US boats into Canada. Very easy. Most cross border transactions are similiar between the two countries. Should be able to find out with a call to your favour customs bureaucrat and boat licensing office.

45

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

I use an electric crane to raise the mast. I untie all the lines securing the mast and all the rigging and line. Install the spreaders. Prep the standing rigging. Raise the mast. Then I dismantle the wooden mast supports. tighten the standing rigging. install the sails. run the lines back to the cockpit. route and hookup all the mast wiring. tune the rigging and install the pins. That takes me about 3 hours. I am sure it would be faster if I did it more than once a year and I could remember where all the lines ran. Having to raise the mast everytime to go sailing would definitely eliminate evening and probably most weekend sailing of me.

46

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I have 3 reefs in my main with permanently rigged reefing lines to the cockpit. I perfer this over the tri sail. The main thing to remember is that with any solution you will be rigging it in storm conditions. Dragging a sail on deck and getting the sliders into the track while the rest of the sail is trying to rip out of your hands in 45kts is "problematic". Same with reefing with out all the lines in place ahead of time. I found that sailing very close hauled ( almost zero headway) with a storm jib only was better that heaving-to. After that a sea-anchor worked great when the sea was too large. (if you have sea room)

speed is a big factor. I have a one cylinder 9.5hp diesel. When going 4.5 knots I burn .63 liters per hour. At 5.5 knots I burn  almost twice that.

expanding liquid foam is a two part liquid like expoxy. You quickly mix the two parts together and it starts expanding into the cavity. I am not sure how the R value compares to rigid boards designed specifically for insulation. One other factor to consider on a long voyage is that ice is hard to find in many areas or very expensive. I started my year long trip with an ice box and half way through converted it to electric. The frig0boat units are very efficient. I only had a solar panel for power. I paid $9 a block for ice in Bermuda. In the Azores it was unavailable except at the fish plant for free at a particular time if you were lucky and after a mile walk. I eventually gave up on ice.

49

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Do not forget that you need two big wrenches in your tool box to adjust it. One for the forward nut and one to hold the locking nut at the same time.

Would a strong power washer take it off?