Mine (JJT 1976) also has a drain in the keel. port side. very bottom aft corner. Its a 3/4" brass set screw hex head. Great for cleaning and draining the bilge after haul out.
The lower pennant on my storm jib is about 4 feet long, so it should not be a problem leaving another sail hanked on.
Deb, I have not been sailing on Georgian Bay for 20 years. Now I just day sail in Barrie.
I completely agree with you. I have used my storm jib offshore alot in the past and love it. I still carry it with me eventhough now a days I only sail around in circles in the local bay. It takes up no room and you never know when you will need it. Almost everyone here only have a large furled genoa and when the wind gets above perfect conditions they are all left flailing along trying to go upwind. I also carry it when I motor the 25nm across the lake with the mast down on the way to and from winter storage. Its useful for a jury rig and I never like having an engine as my only option.
Install it so that it points straight down, not flush with the hull and pointing off the the side.
Avoid voids in the glue joint. One method is to make a four sided box and glue it to the hull. Then fill the box with construction glue and stick in the transducer at the correct angle. Since you will end up with a widge of glue, the box holds in the glue in place and avoids gaps in the glue.
My control line is a continuous loop of 1/4" line that loops around the pulley 1/2 of a turn. In the future I will try a 1/8" line that goes around the pulley twice. My line (white in the pic) goes forward to the stantion and turns around using a ring. A loop of bungee holds it all in tension. I have also run it forward to the companionway for easier adjustment in the rain, but it gets in the way.
Just make sure that it comes off the pulley straight otherwise it will slip off. Of course you can skip the control line completely and just turn the control pulley directly. The pulley can be moved up and down on it's shaft with the set screw.
I have a Yanmar 10hp and can do 5.5kt at cruise power (8hp ?). If I throttle back to 4.2kt then fuel consumption drops by half. So you can assume I am using about 4hp to go 4.2kt.
Re: Re Power with a 1GM10 Yanmar - Prop Question (8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I believe I have a 3-blade 12x13. Your prop supplier will have a program that inputs some basic data about your boat and engine and then spits out a prop recommendation.
Re: Sailing to from Lake Ontario to Long Island NY (6 replies, posted in Cruising)
I did the route from NY city to Lake Ontario (Osewgo) and it took 7 days. I had a crew with me to help in the locks but it could be done solo if required. Th locks in the US are very good without much turbulence. Not a difficult trip, just lots of boring motoring. Rig up a tarp over the cockpit to protect you from the sun and rain. I used the electric auto pilot 95% of the time. I put a piece of 2x8 wood across the cockpit so that I could comfortably sit and still see over the dodger and reach the course correction buttons on the autopilot.
If sailed hard, the deck under the mast can flex down a bit. Not a real problem. I installed a 2.5x2.5 inch beam under the mast inside the cabin that bolts to the top of the bulkheads. Not really an issue for normal sailing. I have never heard of a Contessa having a serious issue from this. Only slight flexing that requires the rigging to be tighten after the first hard sail.
My liner has some deformation as well, but since the deck is not deformed, I think it is caused by trying to fit in a thin large one piece liner that is not structurally glued to the deck rather that resulting from stresses after construction.
If your sail is also ancient and in need of replacement, be careful about making too tight of a fit. My cover fit my old main great, but when I got a new crispy sail, the cover no longer fit and I had to add a strip along the bottom. Apparently a mainsail made of cloth like wet toiletpaper packs up smaller than real dacron.
My cradle is 44" tall, 52" wide, 111" long. When using a cradle on a trailer remember that there are two types of cradles. Storage and transport. The storage cradles are designed to mainly hold the boat up. Most of the weight sits on the keel. A transport cradle needs to resist much more side loads when going around corners.
The trailer I used was the standard maximum width. I forget the max allowed on the road without a special permit, but I think the beam of the boat was a little wider than th trailer. When on the trailer, the load looks very top heavy but with 50% of the mass in the keel the center is gravity is really only about 3 feet above the bottom of the keel.
Mine is the type with a greased 1/4" rope material that is squished by a nut like thing. Sometimes it will leak a bit after launch in the spring. I just tighten down the nut a bit. I check to make sure that it is not too tight by turning the shaft by hand. If the stuffing material is too old then this may not work. It is not a big job to replace it every 5 or so years. You just need two big wrenchs and a dental type pic to get the old stuff out. It is better to do it on the hard, since it will be running like a tape once you remove the old stuff and if you have problems getting the new stuff in then you can not take a trip to the store or think about it over night without the risk of sinking the boat.
An old register name is ok, but if she still registered under old owner you may need to fake a signature to update the registery. You must use the government's form for the bill of sale that is needed to change the owner on a registered boat.
It is cheap to replace and much easier when out of the water.
Re: Engine upgrade... Petter to Yanmar1GM10 (1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I did the same swap. I had to remove the mounting rails in the boat and glass in new ones. The metal mounts between the engine and the rubber mounts needed to be modified to make the engine sit low enough. I made a plywood cutout of the engine by blowwing up the side/top/front view diagrams from the manual. The plywood model was then suspended from the cockpit floor to determine the new mounts and rails dimensions.
Check this post for my quick release hatch. Only 3 bolts.
Mine (1973) has a floor in the keel that is about 12" below the cabin floor. There are two hatchs in the cabin floor. A small one to access the two 12v batteries down there and a three foot long one to access the storage. The floor runs from the front of the keel to the back where is opens to the bilge below the engine. It provides good storage and seals the keel from the hull incase the keel is opened up in a grounding. Probably along the seam in the leading edge of the keel.
I have posted several interior modifications in the past. Use the search function and enter seeadler in the author field, then scan down for topics started by me. (left of the topic)
I am in a city marina. You pay a fee in ranges. 25 to 28ft = $1535. (just the slip) Boat length includes all extensions. bow pulpit to self-steering gear.
The float switch lives in a really bad environment and will not last forever. The other cause could be debris jammed under the switch and holding it up. The debris may have floated away when water filled the bilge again so now it works again. The bilge pump is usually hooked in before the master switch so that you can turn all the power off but still have the pumps active when you are away from the boat. Better to risk a flat battery that risk sinking.
My vent line runs up (inside) to the top of the cockpit coaming under the winch mount. It then slopes downhill aft to the transom and through the hull there. I have never had any water get in.
Re: I'm rebuilding a Co and i need your help (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Mine (#161) has the registration number molded into the hull. It is on the stern, top starboard corner. It is hard to see because it is small (~3/8" x 1.5") and the same colour as the hull. I do not know if I have the molded number instead of the plate or if it should have both and the plate is missing. That also means the date must be the start of construction.
I borrowed a trailer from a different type of boat and needed to guess at the CG to get the correct tongue weight. I used one of the side view drawings of the Contessa that is found on the web. It is the one that shows the outline of the ballast weight. I guessed at the center of the ballast and guessed at the center of the rest of the boat using side area. Since the ballast is 50% of the overall weight, I put the CG at halfway between those points. After the boat was on the trailer using this method, I measured the tongue weight and it has close to what I wanted.
Stainless Outfitters in Barrie does alot of custom work in stainless steel for boats. They made my fuel tank and modified my dodger frame.
For my bow roller, I made a prototype out of cardboard and took it to a local fabricator. That way I got a custom piece that fit my anchor and boat perfectly at minimum cost. pic below.
I just saw the pics of your motor. I see that there is a floor a few inches below the engine. Is this the bottom of the bilge or a tray that is part of the motor mount? My bilge (hull 161) is 3 ft deep from in front of the engine back to the rudder. Is this a feature of the later boats?