101

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The copper plate was ruffed up with very course sand paper. I used WEST epoxy after grinding the hull down to bare gel coat or glass (forgot which). The copper bolt in the center and many pieces of wood jammed between the plate and the ground held it until until hard. After about 4 years and 11,000 nm one of the corners started to peel so a little more glue and all is ok again. Maybe an adhesive that does not harden would stand up to winter temp changes better. I have seen the temporary cables used. Cheap, easy, deploy as needed.

102

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have a 1.5 ft x 2 ft copper plate glued to the outside of the hull at the top of the keel and a 1" dia copper bolt goes through it and the hull. Inside the hull, copper wires (1/4"dia) run from the bolt/nut to each chain plate. If the boat stayed in Ontario, I would not bother. My research indicates that it increases your chance of getting hit but reduces the chance of the strike blowing a hole (or many) through the hull. I have heard of very few boats hit around here. The insurance company does not even ask about it. If this was Florida then that may be another matter.

103

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

One way to "lengthen" the shrouds is to shorten the mast. I sawed 1.5 inches off the bottom of my mast due to a crack. Removing the base casting was very difficult due to corrosion. Since my shrouds were already on the long side, I molded a new fiberglass receiver in the deck to support the foot of the mast.

104

(1 replies, posted in Technical)

My exhaust outlet may get close the water line, but inside the boat the tube goes up to just under the rail before going back down and exiting. So it would be hard for the water to flow back to the engine. I also have a water lock box to prevent back flow.

Mine (1976) are 1 5/16" dia.  I do not know the length

106

(4 replies, posted in Cruising)

Seeadler originally had the same very large ice box on the starboard side. It has large enough for a small family to live in and so deep it has almost impossible to reach the bottom. I cut it out and built the arrangement in the above pictures. I gained lots of storage space and a gimbled stove without loosing the chart table. An ice box was made to fill the cutout in the back of the V-berth.

Could cooling water have got back up the exhaust and in the cylinder by a open valve? If it is a cracked engine block there will probably be water in the oil.

108

(2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

109

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

110

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have mine mounted just above the spreaders. It is a standard 18" size. I rarely have any problem with it. Sometimes a halyard from one side gets flicked onto the other side but this is not a problem and would only lead to wear over a long time. If I tack with the largest genoa in light winds and pull the sheet in hard before the sail has had time to come across then it gets caught on one side of the dome, but I only have to loosen the sheet and let the wind blow the sail around. I would mount it up the mast if doing it again. I use my radar for seeing ships at distance, so the higher the better. When you mount it lower the range is reduced and the sea clutter from waves increases. If you are only using it for finding close in bouys in the fog then a pole mount would be ok.

Is there a cut-out in the rudder for the prop?  The back of the hull should be the same and there does not appear to be any thing added to the structure inside for the engine. The engine mount/bed can be added easily. When I changed my diesel I removed and changed everything but the tube that held the cutlass bearing. It would be tricky to drill the hole lined up properly, but I can not think of any major issues other than the barrel of money needed.

112

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

A friend has a bubble, but at about 16 inch dia, there is not much room for your head. Especially if the boat is bouncing around. You can look out in the rain, but no fresh air ventilation.

The West Marine catalog has a page on the regs. I do not know if the same info is in their web site, but you could give it a try.

Don't forget. You also need a white light at the stern for the night. It can be mounted on the teak piece that is across the stern.

116

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I have two different copies. They only have a map. There seem to be six different releases of the book.

ISBN        Publisher
0671666533    Simon & Schuster    1989    Hard cover          drawings – photos
0340523913    Hodder & Stoughton    1990    Hard cover          maps – illustrations
0345368762    Ballantine Books    1991    Paper back      map only   
0340549807    Coronet, UK    1991    Paper back
0345410122    Ballantine Books    1996    Paperback        map only
0613070224    Sagebrush Ed Res    1996    School rebinding


Has anyone read her new book, "I've been around"?

117

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Mine is just glued to the inside of the hull. Done by previous owner. I do not know if it is a special transducer. Many companies have their product owners manuals online for downloading. Check some out and see if the manufacture has anything to say.

118

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Doing nothing for a year is not as bad as it may seem. Blistering is a very slow process, so your boat will not sink in the next few years. The only way to tell what you really have and how bad would be to grind down one of the larger blisters and see what is in/under it. There should be some good write-ups on the web on how to deal with the blisters. Look up under fiberglass osmosis gelcoat. Try the Interlux web site, I remember them having a booklet on osmosis repairing.

119

(2 replies, posted in Cruising)

Nice photos, good trip.

120

(6 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I have a Siemens hard panel. The company is now Shell Solar and the model is SQ75. It is rated 75W max, but that is at noon in perfect conditions, so assume 60watts. Many types are available, hard or flexible, and different sizes and different technologies that have different ratings per square foot and different costs. The best for you really depends on the area you have for mounting, the power you need, if you are stepping on the panel, etc. I think I paid $700CAD for mine 5 years ago. It must be mounted so that shadows do not fall on it. A 1" wide shadow across mine will reduce the output by 30%.

121

(6 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I have a 75W solar panel and a frig-o-boat 12v frig with keel cooler. The keel cooler is very efficient and insulation is a major factor. When living aboard in port, I have enough power to run everything including the frig, jut on solar. But when at sea, the GPS and radar are on 24/7 and I do not have power for the frig. The problem with wind generators on a small boat is mounting it so that it will not interfere with the sails or chop your head off. Some models make a fair amount of noise. Wind generators are good for areas that the wind is always blowing 15+ kts. The power generated is exponental to the speed of the wind, so the power drops off very quickly as the wind does. Make sure you find out what the expected output will be for the average wind speed in your area.

122

(6 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Do you mean wind electrical generator or wind vane steering? Seeadler does not have wind electrical generation only solar panels, but she does have wind vane steering. Indispensible for long distance sailing, single handed or crewed. Electrical autopilots have limitations that make them not as good for long distance, but good for day sailing or light conditions.

123

(29 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

124

(4 replies, posted in Cruising)

125

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

If you want to have exactly the correct amount of sail up for the conditions then 3 reefs offer more choice. But if you are more convervative and do not mind being over reefed a tiny amount and not getting that last few percent of speed then 2 deep reefs are simpler and less expensive.