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Check out the pics of my bow roller in the "Stemhead casting / forestay tang" topic in the "repair/modification/upgrade" area of this forum.

Shannon,
The black strip around the opening is foam weather sealer found at the hardware store. It provides a good seal, but goes permanently flat in a season. I should replace it with a firmer rubber sealer, but the weather stripping is so cheap and easy to get. Since there is a gap between the top of the beam and the bottom of the lid, the bolts do not bottom out. The three bolts hold down the hatch lid very tightly against the seal. In fact, If you do them up very tight, they will cause the lid to bow down slightly leaving a small puddle of water on the hatch after a rain.
The beams only rest on the L brackets when the bolts are removed. They may fall out of place if you leaned on them while working on the motor. Just rotate them toward the center line of the boat and lift up. Once the bolts are in a place and tightened the beams are pulled up tight against the bottom of the lip around the hatch opening.

I replaced mine a few years ago. I removed the set screw in the outer tube that holds the bearing (outside end). Removed the shaft. Then I removed the stuffing box and connecting rubber hose on the inboard end. I got a solid metal tube that was a bit smaller than the inside diameter of the outer tube holding the bearing. It is put into the tube from the inside. It is larger than the cutlass bearing hole so it slides in until it hits the end of the bearing. It should be long enough so that the end sticks out to a position that you can get a good swing at it. Then get a 10lb sledge hammer and start pounding on it to force it out the back. It took a suprising amount of force to get it moving. The new one went in much easier.

I bought a product sold specifically for that. It was a small airesol can (3'' tall). I can not remember the name. But try asking at the marine store. It worked good on Duck Tape goo and dried silicon.

I have small cube speakers under the deck on the aft side of the galley. They are standard radio shack types and have survived well. The radio/CD is a standard car radio. It is located under the deck by the switch panel. The first one lasted only a week. I large salt water wave came below and the radio sucked some water down the CD slot. They do not like salt water and was dead a few days later. The second one has some plastic protection and is still going a few years later. The marine version maybe a good idea. If power is a concern, check the power consumption first. Car radios use a lot of power and generate a fair amount of heat. That is not a problem in a car since the engine is always running and charging the battery. Do not forget to keep everything away from the compass. I do not have speakers in the cockpit, but if you turn it up enough it can be heard. If it is at a comfortable level for someone below, then it can not be heard up top and if its a good volume for up top then someone below will go deaf.

I replaced the original tank that was on the plywood platform in the port cockpit locker. I made a cardboard prototype to get the maximum size and yet still fit in. The top view it rectangular and just fits into the locker opening. But the side view is shaped to fit the curve of the hull side. The tank is lowered into the locker then rotated 90 degrees and then slid forward against the bulkhead. That way the tank only takes up about 8 inches of the locker and gives access to the area aft of the locker opening. Most of the tank is hidden outboard of the locker opening. The cardboard prototype was then given to a local metal shop to make the real thing. It holds 45 liters.

I disconnect the hose from the water intake valve and stick the end in a bucket of water. If you run the engine for more that a minute or so you risk damaging the cutlass bearing. (the tube the shaft is in were it exits the hull)  It is lubed by water. You could have a hose spray water at it from the outside, but you really do not need to run the engine too long. You are just trying to see if it starts and runs. With the prop spinning in air there is no load so it can not be tested properly anyway. When I first ran my new yanmar I thought "this new engine is really quiet compared to the old one". When the boat is in the water and the engine is loaded the engine produces the normal level of noise. Many motor problems will only be evident when the engine is under load.

I replaced my winches with Anderson 28 selftailing two speeds. They were expensive ($1930CAD) and definitely overkill, but are great for single handed sailing. You just have to be careful and not crank until you rip the sail right off the rigging.