Which is preferred, aluminum or stainless rivets, for reattaching stainless sail track to an aluminum mast?

28

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

John,

To get the numbers to come out above the 5 net ton cutoff one must use the calculation format usually followed for fin keel boats.  The depth value is measured internally from the shear line to the "the top of the keel" which from the inside is the bottom of the bilge sump, .  We all know that the bottom of the sump is actually in the keel, but that's what some have used to make it work.

Too bad you already submitted once.  By sending in an application with less than 5 net tons you got a quick administrative rejection.  I'm sure they didn't look any further than that one value... 

Bill

Glad to see you're finally on the water, John!  If you're going to keep sailing on the Great Lakes this fall in those kind of seas you'd best be practicing reefing that mainsail!  wink

30

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

Thanks for the interest, the chart kit is gone...

Thanks for the interest from all who emailed...  the clutches are gone.
Bill

32

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

Can anyone use a Region 3 Maptech Chart Kit?  (Nantucket to NY to Cape May).  It's definately used and probably 10-12 years old, but all the pages are there.  While it's a bit old for primary navigation, it'd be good to have as it has all the small harbors that you may need to duck into for weather or problems but don't necessarily want to shell out the bucks for the charts...  All I'd like is a few bucks to cover packing it up and mailing it to you.  Please email me off-list if you're interested...

The PFD has been sold, thanks for the interest!

For Sale:  West Marine Offshore Sailing Inflatable PFD with integral safety harness and automatic inflator.  Brand new, still in original package.  Was about $195 (don't remember exactly), first $100 plus a bit for postage takes it.  Sold my boat so won't be needing this in the next year or so...  I can email photos, just send me a request off-list.

Regards,
Bill

36

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

Sorry for the delay in posting this, but #334 is under contract (an agreement was actually reached within 24 hours of it being listed here on the site!)  Thanks to all those who have inquired and good luck in your searches.
Bill

37

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

Hi Tom,
Sent you an email off list...
Bill

38

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

39

(5 replies, posted in For Sale)

40

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

Wire is not just wire, but I said "existing COAX".  Coax is coax and different types will all work to some degree.  You'll get more or less loss with different types (say RG58 vs RG8X), but many boats' radios are rigged with the smaller, higher loss coax. 

Marine VHF radios are not made to match any particular length or kind of coax.  Marine VHF antennas are tuned with a loading coil in the base of the antenna, not in the radio or in a separate tuner (as in a backstay SSB antenna).  Perhaps you're thinking of CB antennas, where the coax IS part of the tuned system and shouldn't be cut or changed. 

The length of the coax to a 30 foot tower shouldn't be a problem either.  In fact, its probably similar in length to a masthead antenna cable. 

As Stefan pointed out, you'll have to square away your licensing issues with the local authorities if you plan to transmit!

41

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

The TV antenna won't work well as the frequencies are different even though they're both in the VHF range of the spectrum...

Channels 2-6 (VHF-low) range from 55-85 mHz
Channels 7-13 (VHF - High) range from 175mHz to 211 mHz
Marine VHF is around 162 mHz

You might be able to receive very strong signals (like Wx broadcasts), but it won't transmit worth beans.

While the antenna won't be much good, the tower will be great and you might even be able to use the existing co-ax cable too, depending on its size and condition.

Just put a properly tuned marine VHF antenna on top and you'll be all set.

The drain exits on the port side, without any type of external fitting (it's just a hole, maybe 3/8" dia).  As my project isn't in the water yet I can only speculate on backfilling, but with it's small diameter and it's location pretty high I wouldn't think it'd be much of a problem.  I could imagine some water getting in if you were burying the bow that may wet things, but not to the point of filling the locker, as it'd be draining back out as well.

One improvement I'd make in the newer model anchor lockers is a bolt or latch to lock the lid!

Also, you may want to reinforce locations for two large cleats on either side of the locker if you're going to have a deck hatch, as a midships cleat will lead the anchor rode right over the hatch making it impossible to open when you have a strain on the rode...

43

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

When I sail solo I actually bring a kayak along for a dinghy.  It's great fun for exploring as well as going ashore.  I lash it to the stantions forward for a short hop, and on a passage I just stuff it up forward in the V-berth and secure it.  Keeps the foredeck clear and uncluttered.  Of course this only works if you're alone!

I also have a hard dinghy that I built that I really like.  It's pretty easy to build a rowing pram using stitch & glue construction (tack & tape, or whatever you call it).  Two weekends and you can have yourself a nice inexpensive dinghy that you built yourself!  Even more fun is to mock it up with cardboard panels from a refrigerator box to get the shape you like, and then use the cardboard as templates for the plywood.  That way you can be the naval architect too!  Of course there are plenty of plans and patterns available for small dinghies...

44

(12 replies, posted in For Sale)

Right on, Marc!

The best tasting Dark & Stormy is the one you drink on the porch of the White Horse Tavern after arriving in St. George, Bermuda!  You concur, Christian?

Some of the things mentioned were already incorporated into the newer model JJTs...

There is an anchor locker, deck accessable, with an overboard drain...
Hardware was upgraded somewhat, in that an anchor roller and a second substantial foredeck cleat were added and the cabin ports were all upgraded to quality metal opening ones...
The cabintop "hump" was extended a bit...
I believe the liner mold was changed to lower the sole slightly for a bit more headroom, but not positive on this one...
The ventilation was improved by adding the midships hatch...
Tankage was moved lower, from beneath settees to an integral keel tank...

While I like the structural/strength contributions of no sliding hatch, I too would prefer a QUALITY sliding hatch WITH A SEA HOOD, as this would allow a bridgedeck or at least a 10-12" sill in the companionway.  I see the lack of any sill or bridgedeck as one of the biggest minuses of the Contessa design.

I'd like to see a good traveler on the aft deck.  I'm not sure there's room with a dodger (and possibly a midships hatch) to get decent leverage on the boom with a cabintop traveler.  Sheeting that close to the mast leads to either more parts in the mainsheet purchase, or bigger diameter lines and a bigger winch, plus the whole issue of strengthening the cabintop...

I'd like to bolt the cockpit sole down securely (but not permanently) and add a large access hatch to get at the stuffing box, reverse gear, control cables and the aft side of the engine in general.  I am seriously considering this change myself.

I love a quarterberth at sea.  There's no place cozier to crawl into after watch, especially with a sea running.  Got to have at least one.

This idea is pure speculation and might not work for everyone (especially Adrian's family wink ) but I'd like to see the Contessa not pretend to be a big boat but capitalize on her strengths as a solid offshore boat for one or two.  Eliminate the V berth and use the space for a decent wet locker, a head, and storage.  Move the galley aft to the port side of the companionway, with a quarterberth on the stbd side.  (This would give a bigger cockpit locker portside as well).  Two settees (bunks) with bunkboards fitted) in the salon midships, one of which could slide out to a double in port.  How about a a fold down chart table above the quarterberth or over the aft end of the stbd settee?  Maybe a sturdy table that drops down from the fwd bulkhead?

That will certainly stir up some thoughts!  Maybe Cody will come up with a creative interior for his boat as he's got an empty hull to start with!

46

(7 replies, posted in Wanted)

You may have to have a custom one built, or better yet, build it yourself!  Especially with the old one for a pattern and possibly to salvage the pintles off, it's a pretty straightforward job to lay one up.  I'd guess a core of epoxy laminated marine ply would probably be the best...  Anyone else ever pulled their rudder apart or know anything about the original layup?

47

(6 replies, posted in For Sale)

Sent him an email letting him know about this site and the forum...

48

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

49

(6 replies, posted in For Sale)

50

(11 replies, posted in Technical)

In addition to the cutless bearing cooling issue, it's generally not good to run a diesel without a load on it for long periods of time.  Letting a diesel run without a load keeps it from reaching its design operating temperature, resulting in incomplete combustion and carbon buildup.  A prop spinning in air isn't much of a load...  This is why, for example, one should put the engine in gear while charging your batteries under sail rather that just running it in neutral while sailing.   And if you do idle an engine for a while, it's good to load it up to blow off the buildup before shutting it down...