76

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

77

(1 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Boom furling was used for years on both sides of the Pond.  In general, it creates a poor shape when rolled and has since been taken over by the more efficient slab reefing.

78

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I'm assuming that "West" means West System epoxy.  Making a putty of epoxy and colloidal silica results in a fairly low strength bond. The #404 high strength filler may be a better choice.

Given the underwaterbody shape, there's probably no good place to put the transducer that would give accurate readings on both tacks.  Mine is located under the starboard settee berth and is epoxied to the hull (no hole required). It works fine when motoring and I just turn it off under sail.

I'll add a few lines but can't do it 'til early next week.  I've got five surveys backed up and lousey weather to boot.  Patience.

Anchor type has nothing to do with the boat but with the expected bottom conditions.  I believe that you're in "Danforth" country.  If I further assume that your current anchor is a 13S Danforth, I would suggest a Danforth 13# "Deepset II High Tensile" that has a safe working load of around 1800#.  These things go into mud and sand like I do with strawberry shortcake.

84

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The objective here was to make replacements that appeared  "original".  The pintle is a bronze casting that is embedded in the rudder casting.  The original had an area of weakness where it exited the rudder.  The new casting is designed to be very rugged in this critical area and also allow for the future replacement of a worn pin. But you could make them any way you want.

85

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Is there a code here, Nigel?  What's the message? 

Good to hear from you again.

Not much of a dilemma at all.  First, let’s get realistic about prop drag and its effect on speed.  The drag of a Campbell Sailor (sailing at 5kts) is around 12 lbs for a two blade and 18 lbs for a three blade.  As mentioned above, the two blade can be hidden and one blade of the 3B could also hide (dropping its drag to around 12 lbs).   My guess is that at the most, you’d lose maybe 0.10 kts.  That isn’t significant for a cruising boat. 

Hanging 100+ lbs off the transom is just where you don’t want the weight.  Loading the extreme ends of any vessel promotes “hobby-horsing” in heavy seas.  This almost insures that the prop will be batting air just when you don’t want it to be doing that.  A diesel down below gets the weight in a better position being more forward and below the LWL.

Gas tank?  If you install a permanent tank with deck fill and venting, etc. you’re fine.  If you use the portable tank that comes with the engine, you have a placement problem.  You can’t keep it anywhere in the interior where fumes could accumulate.  It’s got to be in a sealed but vented locker or outside where any spills or vapors from the vent cap can go over the side.  Fuel usage is another concern for a cruiser.  My 2GM13 gobbles up a little over a pint/hour at 5kts.  My 10 gallon tank gives me roughly 60 hours of steaming.  No outboard can come close to this.

If engines were only used for motoring in light air and seas, the outboard would be fine.  But that isn’t always the case.  Driving into a heavy wind with nasty seas is not a job for any stern hung outboard.

87

(28 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

To my knowledge, there are none available from anywhere.  I had looked into having some cast and machined but the quantities would have to be quite high in order to write-off the pattern costs. There are actually three separate castings needed. one pintle (embedded type) and two gudgeons.  Location?  I'll email a pic.

48 deg.

89

(8 replies, posted in Technical)

Remove hardware.  Dig out any olod calking.  Wash with acetone. Re-goop with Sikaflex #291.

I'd go with the 16A or 16C although the size 14 would probably be fine. I'd prefer the two speed 16A or C non-self-tailing.

92

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

All fasteners are 1/4-20 bronze machine screws with nuts and washers. Because the new bronze track holes were on different centers, new holes were drilled.  The interior liner did not interfere with putting on the nuts although the clearances were quite tight.

I assume that yours is a JJT.  They are all bolts or 1/4-20 flat head screws with nutz. At least mine were.  I replaced the original aluminum track with bronze. I had to drill out all of the fasteners. They were quite corroded.

94

(11 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Rough calks indicate that you would need 150 cu ft of rigid foam to keep afloat. That would probably make the already sparse living space a bit short of room.  The life raft is a better alternative since sinking is a rare event.

roughly 5" x 12" and 7" x 18".

96

(11 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I hate to be a fuddy-duddy about this but it's the sailor who makes the boat and not the other way around.  As you may know, Tania's boat wasn't a standard "production" model. Brian Caldwell's was an old '74 that also made the round trip.  I believe that either could have done well in any other relatively well built barge. I can't recall whether anyone has ever made a big deal about Shackleton's 22' lifeboat.

97

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

The upper spinnaker halyard block is normally above and forward of the head stay.  The casting at the top of the mast has two cross-holes.  The highest and most forward hole should be for the spinnaker halyard swivel block so that the ‘chute is carried forward and clear of the headstay.  This naturally makes it clear of the jib halyard.  If it isn’t like this, you may have a problem.  This assumes that I haver understood your inquiry.  That may be a bad assumption.

98

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

Sounds normal to me. The only way to get a smooth idle is to add a few more cylinders.  Any multiple of 3 will do.  Three and five cylinder diesels idle quite smoothly. Yours is fine.

99

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

It appears that the specs above are for a JJT26.  For some unexplained reason, there are definitely some differences between the CO26 & JJT26 sail plans.

PS. Hi Nigel.

100

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Just guessing…the usual suspects are the genoa track, handrails and the portlight.  The genoa track would be most probable given its varying loads.  Leaks here could get between the hull and the interior liner and make their way to the locker.  This could be tested by stuffing the area under the fastenings with paper towels and then hosing it down.  Same goes for the others.  It is possible for the portlight and handrails to be leaking into any gap between the headliner without showing leakage at the visible surfaces. 

Mildew can hide almost anywhere.  Again, the interior liner may be the problem.  The area of the bilge and under the interior “furniture”, where the liner intersects the hull, is a good place to start.  Blast it with a spray mildew remover and then power wash.  Several applications may be necessary.  Where you can’t easily see it is where it grows best.