251

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

If I might throw in a few comments on this subject.  First, adding a 350 pounds to the foot of the keel makes sense but the additional weight aloft due to the heavier wire (and possibly a radar dome) will cancel out any stability benefits the extra weight might offer.  I am also concerned that the boat's stability will be further compromised by the weight of all the gear and supplies stowed in the cabin.  Since space is at a premium, the boat's center of gravity is certain to rise.

I also believe that these boats are already overbuilt.  Compare them to other boats that have made such voyages.  Also, when was the last time one of us lost their mast?  If I am sailing in conditions where my mast in in serious jeporady then I expect to have a great number of other more pressing problems, such as waves, and staying on board, and being wet and cold.

So far we do not know if we are travelling alone or with a companion.  My preference is the latter of course but this exacerbates the challenge as you will read below.  Basically, work out your personal needs and then multiply by at least two.

Now here is the real problem with these boats.  Day-to-day living.  Next time you go sailing, set the boat on a beat, healed over to 25 degrees or so, and then spend an hour below making lunch.  Try dressing.  Try Sleeping.  Will you sleep in the V-Berth or in one of the quarter berths?  Which one?  Then try reading a chart.  Where will you keep your charts?  How about today's chart?  And what happens when you open that ice box to retrieve your rum bottle?  Where will the chart go?  When heeled 25 degrees it will be on the cabin floor for certain, as will everything else.  And because there are no good options for what to do with foul weather gear (remember we are paying a visit to Cape Horn) all below will not only be chaos but will be wet too.

Next, what about supplies?  Food and water?  Clothes (remember that we will pass from the tropics to the sub-arctic and back)?  Sails and miscellaneous gear?  These boats are tolerable for a week's cruising but one would have to give a lot more thought to stowage before heading off on such a long voyage. 

Watermaker?  Probably a good idea.  But powering this and the rest of our toys will be part of another post on this subject.  What about cold?  A diesel fired furnace such as Espar's would be a great thing but adds both complexity and cost to our boat.  (Aside:  it is a pity that I cannot think of a good place to install a small stove such as a Force 10 as these are much less expensive!  Sigh.)

Basic priorities then:  safety (meaning keep the boat afloat and ourselves on board), then protection from the elements (read warm and dry), closely followed by food and drink (assuming one can keep anything down).  I believe that the boats are quite capable of making this trip as presented (although I do like the idea of a water-tight lower hatch board).  The question that I would like to propose is what changes are necessary to ensure that WE can make the trip?

252

(2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

If I may be so bold as to offer a suggestion:  rather than remove the mast steps why not trade masts with someone who does not have such steps.  They gain the steps and you gain a stronger mast.  It could also save both parties a lot of work!

253

(4 replies, posted in Technical)

I have a Petter and would be interested to see what you have done.  And I have just replaced all my portlights with Bronze if that helps you.

Christopher

254

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

If a traveller goes on the cabin top then it will make the fitting of a dodger impossible.  I believe that a dodger could be more useful than a bimini.

255

(4 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Has anyone considered or tried hanging sails from another boat on a Contessa.  I note that the J24 main is very similar in size to the Contessa main. 

Contessa:  P = 28 and E = 10
J24:  P = 28 and J = 9.75

Given the number of lightly used sails for this class this might be an inexpensive way for many of us to replace sails.

Not certain where you are but I had excellent support from the Petter distributor in Montreal:

Marindustriel
Petter Representative
____________________________

Work:    (514) 342-2748
Fax:    (514) 342-6151
Other:    1-800-363-2259
E-Mail:    daigneag@marind.ca
   
Address:   
8590, Delmeade
Montreal (Quebec) H4T 1L7

Good luck!

257

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

When my Grandfather had the boat he had another solution that also worked.  Difficult to find now unfortunately. 

He used powdered Spic & Span and copper wool.  Apparently there was a chemical reaction between the Spic & Span and the Copper Wool that made it fast to clean teak.

Based on my experience with a stiff brush, I now wonder if it was the copper wool that did the work. 

I do not recall how Cetol fails.  Sanding might discourage the stuff from flaking off it removes all the 'edges'.

Good luck!

258

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I have a solution for that one Adrian.  My local Marine store has sells stainless springs for less than two bucks each.  I fitted these on just about every block on the boat -- now the blocks stay in place when there is no load on the sheet.  No clatter, no banging, no deck damage.  Probably the cheapest and most successful modification I have made to the boat.

259

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I had excellent results with water and a stiff brush, followed by teak oil. 

Wet down the teak so that it soaks up a bit of water, then scrub hard with the brush and your usual deck soap.  The waste water will be black but the wet teak will look great!  Rinse, and then let dry for a day or two.  The teak will appear to be light brown instead of weathered grey.  Occasioinally I have had to rescrub a section where I did not scrub sufficiently.

Time commitment -- I usually do this at the beginning of the season during the first deck cleaning so it takes two to three hours (including cleaning the deck!). 

Then lots of teak oil and the boat looks like a million bucks.  To do the teak oil I usually plan on several hours on board.  I use a rag and wipe on the oil which the teak sogs up like a sponge.  The rag is important as it works lots of oil into the wood but ensures that you do not spill too much oil on the deck.  Teak oil leaves a residue that can be cleaned but it is an effort. 

By going around the boat and starting again right away I can get in about four coats without too much difficulty.  The teak sponges up whatever oil you apply. 

I usually put on one coat of oil during the season as maintenance. 

It sounds like a lot but it is really just part of the cleaning regimen for the deck.  A neighbour recently spent three days taping, sanding and Cetol-ing his hand rails -- far more effort than my scrubbing method.  And we have more teak! 

I have no idea what will happen if you try this method on partically Cetol-ed teak.  It may be necessary to sand first.  Maybe leave it all to weather for a season to remove the Cetol?

Good luck!

260

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Oh!  Here is another place to check.  The hawse pipe on the foredeck on my 1976 JJT was installed the same way as the cowl vents on the poop deck.  That is, cut the hole and drop in the pipe -- no consideration given to sealing the core.

Aside -- the hawse pipe is another useles installation on my boat.  Not only is it a pain to stuff rope down the hole but it the rope tangles and jams on its way back up.  Still worse, the anchor well drains through the storage comparment under the V-berth, thereby soaking anything and everything stored there.

It is another job in my job jar!  I have to decide whether to retain the locker, in which case it must be much more appropriate for its use, or whether to seal the whole thing up and have a new place for lifejackets.

261

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

On my 1976 JJT, the polyethelene water tank was under the forward end of the port quarter berth.  However, water was frozen in the tank before my time with the boat and the area around the hose fitting was badly split.  I tried to repair with goop but only succeeded in flooding the quarterberth.  I sourced a replacement but (wisely) tried to remove the old one first.  After dismantling most of the the galley and berth area I came to the conclusion that it would not pass out the hole under the sink so I cut it into about half a dozen pieces and removed it.  (Aside:  having fought with the tank for a day it was a most cathartic and satisfying bit of deconstruction!) 

Right now I sail with bottled water but at some point I should install some sort of a tank system.  Last year I tried 5 gallon water cooler jugs but found that they were too awkward to handle.  My latest idea is to build a bin to securely hold 1-2 litre drinking water bottles and carry as many as needed.  The downside is that it takes a lot of bottles to make up the 20 gallons that the tank held.

Any thoughts on water tank arrangements?

262

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My 1976 JJT came with a Brydon Boy head plumbed uphill to a 'glassed-in tank under the V-Berth.  The dumb tank is a topic for another day. 

The Brydon Boy has been plagued with problems and I have despaired of making the thing work without leaking water everywhere.  I purchased a Raritan head to install this eeason but its installation requires changing the toilet base.  Here's the rub -- it appears that JJT installed the toilet base on the cabin liner before joining the hull and the liner.  And they did not bond in the nuts.  Therefore turning the bolts on the old toilet base also turns the nuts. 

Anyone have any experience with this part of the boat?  I was planning on cutting a small inspection port to get access to the nuts.

My old red bucket is looking very attractive these days, and solves the tank problem too!

263

(17 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Anyone else have a foredeck that makes crackly noises when walked upon?  I suspect a dry layup (insufficient resin) but am avoiding drilling holes to find out.

264

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Good day!  You guys are giving me nightmares!

Last season I replaced the ventillation cowls on my 1976 JJT only to find the plywood core exposed and wet.  However, there was no rot or significant degredation of the plywood.  My solution was to put a space heater in the lazarette for a week.  Once dry I sealed it up with epoxy and plugged in a new solar vent (less smelly bilges!). 

Good luck with the repair -- it is a bitch of a place to work in.

265

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

While I too would like to modify the engine compartment I was considering why I might need quick access.  On my old Petter, the only reasons for quick access might be to bleed the fuel lines in the case of an air lock or to release the cylinder compression were I hand cranking (really a last resort!).  I can address the bleeding question by moving the fuel filter forward to a slightly more accessible location.  For the compression lever I could (and plan to) install a choke-style push pull wire leading to the boat's interior that I can control while I crank.

If one just needs a quick look to see what is what, there are inspection ports that can be installed in the deck panel.

These days I am thinking a lot about oars for the 300 some-odd feet from my berth to the channel.