my little brothers c&c 24 has this setup - duallys to pad eyes on either side of the coachroof.  i'm running dual 4:1'a to each padeye on the deck (rear cockpit corners) and seems to work well.  havn't had to add a boom vang cause you can pull the boom down.....   i've been toying with the idea of adding a set of eyes to the coachroof to be able to add a small bimini to give the poor helmsman (me!) some shade.....

what are you running for prop / reduction ratio?

Yanmar 1GM10, 2.62 reduction ratio, 12X10 pitch 2 bladed campbell sailor and I can cruise along in flat water at 5 kts.  (~2750-3000 revs)  Trying to punch thru any kind of decent headwind is really not worthwhile, and I usually fly a working jib and tick tack, the ride is a lot more comfortable.  In tight spots, one can motorsail too.......

the cooling system raw water pump (impeller) circulates water all the time.  depending on the temperature of the engine, this water goes to different places.  the thermostat controls where the water goes:  when the engine is started and running cold, all of the water sucked up by the raw water pump goes right into the exhaust.  this is to effectively 'overheat' the engine to get it to come up to a reasonable operating temperature.  once the engine warms up because the closed thermostat is making the engine get wamer, the thermostat opens and allows some cold water to pass through the cooling passages, or water jacket, of the block.  this cools off the engine to it's happy temperature or even a bit colder, the tstat closes again, warms the engine up, opens again, etc etc until engine and cooling water temperature reach sssf.
whats left always  goes into the 'mixing elbow' or exhaust to keep it cool enough from starting a fire... 

the danger with winterizing - you could theoretically run anti freeze though a warm engine and get anti freeze into the water passages of the block.  if things are not warm enough, you won't get any antifreeze into where it counts.  definitely safer to pull the thermostat, then you know you have antifreeze through the whole block.  i've seen (not on my boat) frost plugs sitting in the bilge in the spring, luckily they didn't end up with a cracked block.....

For winterizing the 1GM10 one must

1)  remove thermostat housing (two 10mm head machine screws holding it in place, center top of front of engine) it's the part that the rubber water ines go top and bottom
2)  remove thermostat
3)  reinstall housing
4)  disconnect raw water intake hose from thru-hull
5)  start engine and stick raw water hose into a bucket of antifreeze, run until nice green antifreeze runs out of the exhaust thru hull (catching it with a bucket of course - helps to have 2 people)
6)  remove impeller so it does not set over the winter.

come spring, reinstall the impeller and thermostat, and fire her up.  the reason for removing the t-stat is that the engine is raw water cooled, and from a cold start there is no water circulation thru the block, it all bypasses.  so if you suck up a bunch of antifreeze into a cool engine with the t-stat installed, none of it is getting where you need it.....

56

(15 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Yup I agree that we all have some sort of boat sickness.  ONly thing to go is batten down for winter, grab a few issues of "Good Old Boat" to get the fix, and hope for an early spring!

57

(15 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

<<<   It is fashionable, particularly in the trade press, to poo-poo boats and systems which are not "current".  We often panic that our boat's systems are not up to "standard".  Standards have their place but it is important to recognize that many of our boats have served well for the last 30 years and continue to do so for a few more years more without changes/upgrades.   >>>

There are a few things that have changed over the last 30 years or so too.  Standards are important, of course, but moreover is common sense.  I've spent a few good years restoring my Contessa 26.  She still lacks : radar, house wiring, chartplotter, fridge, new cushions, speedo/depth, a second battery,  etc etc and a few other minor inconveniences not worth mentioning.  For th4 e first 1.5 seasons, I hand cranked the engine...........

She has : new standing rigging all sta-loks; wilcox crittenden imperial 51 head rebuilt (me) and newly installed; 1990 yanmar 1gm10 rebuilt (me again); deck (rotten, really rotten) recored with all cleats, pulpit bases, fwd stanchion bases all in solid glass; ports; cockpit floor panels modded; new bulkdheads and proper compression posts, masthead casting reinforced, stemhead tang remade in stainless, ALL old green crusty seized gate valves replaced w/ bronze ball valves and thru hulls rebedded........  etc etc.

By today's "standards" she's draconian.  Not "current" - obsolete and uncomfortable.   But she's 1) Safe, 2) Dry, 3) Comfortable (by me, wife, dog. so far....)  .  Gate valves are a perfect example of somethings that have lasted for 30 years, but really shouldn't be around anymore.  Just because "its lasted this long" doesn't mean it was right in the first place, and there are a few key areas that I would address before taking any boat (new or old) anywhere.

58

(15 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The problem being is that most Co26's are just that - 20 to 30 year old boats that have seen regular or minimal maintenance with no upgrades/updates to original systems.  Mediocre repower jobs, shoddy electrical work, etc etc.   Nobody is getting into boating as it is, and the few that are want a party barge with no backstay and less than 600 hrs on the engine.........   As long as you can get past not being able to stand up, the Contessa is quite a comfortable boat in the sub 26' range.  More storage than most (all below the waterline) and sails quite well.  I used to worry about being slow - so far have pretty much held my own in "racing" (two boats heading the same way...)  and have outpointed and kept pace with a C&C 27, bigger Hunter (no challenge.....) and a few others.  On corrected time, look out!

NO question - they are small belowdecks.  I'm in agreement that for the 50 000 budget range, there are quite a few boats that would do the job faster, roomier, drier, and look better than the Dana.

forgot about them - gotta leave them open, theyre double clamped with reinforced hose (the good stuff).  Candadian small vessel construction standards require that any thru hull has a positive means for closing it.  I was debating whether or not to even put valves in when i redid the thru hulls, and decided that even if i popped a hose, as long as i was on the boat, i'd probably manage to get it shut and save the thing from sinking.  i spray some krown into the valve bodies from the outside, and exercise the valves a few times before winter layup (leaving them open of course!) - and again in the spring.

Good practice, but seeing as they are so easily accessible on my boat all seacocks get closed immediately after use - save for the engine raw water intake which gets opened at the start of the trip (weekend, whatever) and closed when I leave the boat.  That'd be a crappy one to forget to open.......

61

(7 replies, posted in Wanted)

only problem is then the boat sits super high, with a proper trailer with drop axles you can squeeze it in almost anywhere

62

(7 replies, posted in Wanted)

Looking for a trailer for Co26 or something that can I can modify to fit.  Electric or surge brakes doesnt really matter, must be a tandem though....

aafter reading polaris' listing, i wonder about the lloyds / uk boat spec mentioned??

I upgraded the standing rigging on Untold Want to all 7/32's wire and Sta-Loks at all ends only because it was easy to work everything in one wire dia, and the sta loks were no more expensive at the time than buying fittings and paying for swaging.  chainplates replaced with new .25 x 1.00 ss bar, proper positioning of 3/8" pin dia (ie no oversized exsting hole)  stemhead casting modified to remove cast tang, i made a custom "double L" bracket, welded down the middle top and bottom.  does this fit the bill?

64

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Still don't completely understand, as most outboard powered Contessas (for all sakes 'engineless') and some inboards sell between 8-10 000 $.  less 2000 (or +) for an outboard, and you're still in the 5 - 8 000 range.  that's a lot of new fittings, rigging, bits and pieces

Are you reusing the mast/standing rigging?  I would be interested in the mast if you are not.

65

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The later boats had lead ballast.  My 74 has iron for sure.

Would it not have been better to sell the Co and buy ballast instead of cutting her up?

Got any parts left that you want to get rid of?  Rails, stanchions, etc????

66

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Checking out Tim Lackeys site I see that Equinox is back for some more upgrades - any sneak peeks at what you've got planned Bob?

seems like a bit of an odd setup on the contessa, having an external tailpiece instead of an embedded stern tube.  the prop aperture must be huge!

looks like volvo wont let us see the store anymore....  darn dealer protected territory

the part number is indeed 828254

you'll also get a bit more hoist out of the sail, should help the foot clear your pow pulpit/lifelines

From forward 1- knotlog, 2 - sink drain, 3 - head fresh water in, 4 - engine raw water intake, 5&6 - cockpit drains, 7 - bilge pump outlet (above w/l) 8 - engine exhaust (above w/l)

My 76 did NOT have the toerail drains, and I;m sure glad I took the time to cut 2 drains out on each side.  She sheds water quickly now, and I can;t imagine how painfully slow the deck must have drained with the small drains teed into the cockpit drain hoses.  In the general vicinity of the old drains, I punched a hole in the new coring before installing and filled with glass- for future considerations for fresh water collection (rain) but for now the holes are for all intents and purposes gone.

I don't particularly find an aft mounted traveller to be much of an advantage over the (simple)  A-Frame setup.  Personally I'll build a traveller for my boat is when I head south, and the traveller will be forward with boom shortened so to allow a small bimini.  So to allow me not to shake and bake.

Maybe I don't compete (or care to) like I used to, now I'm acclimated to seeing the stern of my brother's C&C 24 in anything less than 10 kts...  But when she pipes up...

72

(13 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

totally agree that she touched bottom before rolling, and came back up and was pretty much high and dry for a second or 2....

If you're going to pull the boat and at the same time pull the stuffing box to repack, there's not much point in reinstalling.  I would replace with Volvo Penta type stuffing box.  It's a rubber bell, that has a big momma clamp that clamps around the stern tube, has a cutlass bearing type surface to support the shaft, and uses a double lip garlock type seal ( aft side water lubricated, fwd side packed with grease ) to keep water out.  Maintenance is to inject grease once per season or approx 100 hrs, service life depends on how often you want to change it.  My father changes his every 5 years or so, and the one that I'm using (2 seasons) is one of his old ones......

If I recall i posed the link to the part, just try searching

After all the hours I spent on Untold Want, the only thing that I can say is it was worth it all.  It's not new, not entirely perfect (although most people that have a look say it is)  I know where my little 'mistakes' are or where I would do differently having the chance to do it again. Maybe on the next one.  After spending yesterday at the boat show checking out some of the floating mansions (who needs 2 flat screen tv's on a boat!  I don't even have 1 in my house!!) having a brew with my dad he decided again (and I agree) that a Contessa 26 was worth doing all the work on.

Seems also that the used boat market is stronger than last year, there's not nearly the selection available.  Guess anyone who has a good used boat is keeping it for now, it will be interesting to see what Canada's 'economic recovery' and spring/summer will bring....  Boatforsale is the thinnest I've seen it in a while....

Have a beer for me at the show!  Cheers

If I get laid off, I'll take it on!

What kind of scope are you looking at - I hope to start Desourdy BoatWorks this spring/summer (there's a few people at Iroquois looking for work done, but there seems to be a serious shortage of people that will do decent, honest, reasonably priced quality work).  Everyone always asking who I got to fix xxxx or work on yyyy......

I'd love to do work like what Tim Lackey does, but:  don't have the shop space, don't have the capital to build a shop, just want to sail a bit before taking on another project, don't particularly like fiberglass dust!