1

(11 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The link doesn't seem to work (or maybe it's just my lousy connection).

Does anyone have a line on a supplier of bubble hatches? I've done any number of internet searches, to no avail. I would want to fit one for the added security of being able to do a 360 degree scan from inside the boat at regular intervals. Seems to beat having to climb out in the wind and rain, especially when the cabin is oh so warm and dry....

Cheers,

Pete

3

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Ya beat me to it!

I was going to mention the turtlepac link, but the boats.com link was one I hadn't seen. Damned Google. Let me know if you come across any others, as I'm getting set for another overseas jaunt, so have had to curtail research over the last few weeks. With a bit of luck, my next duty station will have internet access......

Cheers,

Pete

4

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Knew I'd find it, if I just dug in the right box! This is from the July '85 issue of Canadian Yachting, page 11, Sightings (by Scott Baker):

....."In spite of her confidence though, her vessel has been specially equipped to handle below-the-waterline damage. J.J. Taylor and Sons packed all unused space with rigid foam, and the lockers inside the boat are all airtight. Should serious damage occur, the boat is also equipped with three Avitare packs made in California. In an emergency the packs, stored in lockers below, are inflated and within 60 seconds they produce enough positive flotation to keep the boat afloat."

I would assume that a trip to the head would have been out of the question, then.........

5

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

That's a question that I have spent the last couple of months trying to get a handle on. There doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there on the web, so I have had to rely on the few descriptions of similar mods done to other boats, not always of the same beefy scantlings or displacement as the Contessa.

Briefly, I'm setting up Renaissance for single-handed offshore work, so I need only a pilot berth, head, galley, nav station, and space for spares and stores for 4 months at a time. The route that makes the most sense to me is as follows. Beef up the inside of the bow with an extra 3/4 inch of mat and epoxy, tapered out well into the eyes. Some extra glasswork, a deck-plate, and bronze through-hulls makes the anchor well self-draining and accessible, and allows the area directly beneath to be glassed in as a small flotation tank. Immediately aft, for about 3 feet, the old v-berth storage area is glassed in as flotation, and a bulkead erected above, right across the bows. This has a tight-fitting access door, behind which is installed an inflatable flotation tank (these are available commercially) that is fabricated to fill the space. Continuing aft, the head is placed on the centreline against this bulkhead, with the house batteries installed as low as possible on either side; above is open-shelved for sail and light stores stowage. While this does reduce the interior volume by quite a bit, as well as the perception of space below-decks,  it utilises one of the two least-accessible areas in the vessel. Aft of the head, all is much the same as in the traditional accommodation plan, until you arrive at the aft (companionway) bulkhead.

Since Renaissance never had an inboard intalled (at the request of the first owner, who really knew her stuff), I have all that lovely (and nearly useless) space under the cockpit in which to fit another custom-fabricated inflatable tank. This stops just short of the cockpit drains aft, and the lazarette is glassed in to form a watertight bulkhead. A bit more glasswork under the cockpit benches (to reduce their capacity) provides further flotation. I am still debating whether to raise the cockpit sole by 6 inches or so. I consider its' volume too large for an offshore boat, and that should also solve the problem of cockpit drainage when heavily loaded and pressed.

In a narrow, deep hull like this, it is very difficult to achieve the level of positive flotation that will assure adequate freeboard to permit pumping-out in any kind of sea. My reasoning is that IF she will stay afloat, and IF I can survive whatever caused her to fill in the first place, I will have a semi-submarine that should be able to make a knot or two in the direction needed to get her patched up and sailing again. Far better than placing faith in a survival raft that could drift for decades before sinking, with no way to alter course.

I'll post again in a day or two with at least one supplier of inflatable tanks. In the meantime, good luck with the search.

Pete

6

(1 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Et, au moins, 1 anglo qui peut debrouiller.......

8

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

To Peter SC,

Some of the boats (as in my '78) used SS machine screws and nuts to hold the rubbing strake on. Not sure why this is; could be that some boats were treated differently on a custom basis. Oddly enough, Renaissance was built with only one quarterberth, so it appears that there will be differences in fastenings, layout, and possibly fittings, as well. Go easy on the plugs until you are sure of what's underneath!

9

(4 replies, posted in Wanted)

Hey Stefan,

Not sure how (or even why) they numbered sails in the 70's, but Renaissance came with a 150% genoa numbered (you guessed it!) 79. Her other sails all bear the number 7, though the hull number is 223. Was there a Contessa swap meet operating at some point on Lake Ontario?

Pete

10

(18 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

Hey Jose,

Try using a few ounces of automatic transmission fluid in the cylinder. It worked quite well on old motorcycle engines, way back when.....

Just a quick comment, though. If you have rust already formed on the cylinder walls, you may well do further damage by trying to turn the engine over. If it seized up while running, no problem. But if there's heavy rust present, you could score the piston badly, were you to insist. If you have only limited movement once you get it freed up, pull the head. That way, it's just a matter of a fine hone and a new set of rings.

To avoid this problem in future extended lay-ups, turn the engine by hand in its normal direction of rotation until it hits the compression stroke. You'll know right away; it won't turn anymore. This way, the valves are closed, sealing the cylinder of from the outside atmosphere, preventing moist air (or condensation/water from the exhaust system) from entering and causing rust.

Good luck,

Pete

Thanks Jose (sorry, no accents on this laptop......),

I fired them off a request for a quote. Hope I won't need CPR when the answer comes back.

Thanks for the welcome! It's a great site, and it has played a decisive role in my choice of a Contessa. Can't wait to get back home and get started!

Pete

Can anyone reccomend a good transporter in the TO area. I recently bought "Renaissance", a 1978 JJT Contessa 26 (ZJT032231078), and I need to get her back to Arundel, Quebec for refit. Ideally, they should be both reliable and reasonable. Let me know if you have someone you trust! Thanks, Pete