There are still LOADS of small boats being built. No, they don't look like Contessas, and I understand the traditionalist appeal, but lets recall she was designed in the 60s, based on an even older design. Stroll through the list of pocketcruisers, there may be more now than ever. Companies like Beneteau aren't comparable with JJ Talyor as JJT made maybe 800 boats in it's entire history while Beneteau makes 5000 a year - they are clearly focused at different markets and always have been. J boats makes several sub 32s, the J80, I believe you can still get a J22 or J24 built. The Colgate 26 is a great boat. Com-pac makes no less than 6 sub-30foot cruising boats. West wight potter has a 17 and a 19. Pacific Seacraft still makes the Dana 24, and I believe the Flicka 20, both solid cruisers. Eastsail Yachts makes several pocket cruisers. Hunter, (can't believe I'm plugging them!), makes a 25 and a 27. Ok, I'll have to mention the MacGregor 26 even if I struggle to categorize it as a sailboat. You can still get a new Nor'Sea 27. Precision is a builder who makes some great performing small boats - 7 models, 15 - 28 feet. Seaward makes a neat little 26. If you wanted a new Contessa 26 built today, even assuming the molds still existed, I think you should plan to double that $50K number. Yep, the big boats get more press, are more visible at boat shows, and have bigger marketing budgets, but rest assured, there are still many, many pocket cruiser options out there.
26 2006-11-09 20:18:37
Re: Building a New Contessa (16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
27 2006-11-06 18:55:43
Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals (7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Really simple, methinks. If the "bottom" portion of the mounts, the cups are still there, the F10 just had rods that size that rested in the cups, and a brass bar goes over the top and clamps down on the stove's "bars," how tightly you screw the screws dictates how easily it swings. Have a couple of pictures, but can take more specific ones this weekend. My e-mail address is in the ad for my boat in the marketplace section, drop me a note and I'll reply with photos attached.
28 2006-10-30 18:04:20
Re: Winter Lay-up (8 replies, posted in Technical)
In addition to what John noted, really important to change the oil before you lay her up, (and then again when you recomission in the spring). Fill the diesel tanks and add a biocide. Also good to plug any air inlet into the engine, (air intake AND exhaust), even just with a rag, helps keep moisture out of the cylinder.
Grease EVERYTHING that moves - ball valves, engine controls, etc. Someday, this will save you a struggle in the spring.
Take the batteries out of the boat, clean them up and keep them stored where you can keep the charge topped up - every 4 -5 weeks.
There's also a long standing argument in some parts of the world - to store with mast up or mast down. All things being equal, take the mast down. If you leave it up for cost reasons, at least slack the tension on the standing rigging.
Probably some other things I do too, but won't remember them until next week when I'm actually doing them!
29 2006-10-28 19:50:47
Re: Stuffing Box temperature (6 replies, posted in Technical)
Yes, you can repack a stuffing box while the boat is still in the water. However, you need to figure it all out before you give it a go because when you remove the packing nut, it will let a steady flow of water into the boat. How much water is dictated by the particular stuffing box, but in any case it's not something you can leave overnight and pick up again the morning....or at least I don't recommend it!!
If you've tightened it as you mention, you've already figured out how it works. Tightening the packing nut pushes in on rings of flax packing, compressing them and therefore providing a seal against the shaft. The more compression, the tighter the seal, but also the greater the friction, as you've found.
There are 2 basic designs I've seen. When you remove the packing nut in one, you reveal a compression spacer, when removed, this exposes the flax packing in a tube around the shaft. The second is very similar, but more simple - when you remove the packing nut, there is no compression spacer, the flax packing goes into the packing nut, and you simply tighten this against the face of the stuffing box.
There should also ALWAYS be a locknut astern of the packing nut. Be sure this is always doing its job, as the shaft can spin the packing nut off the stuffing box, which is of course not a good thing.
You need to buy the right size flax - generally dictated by your shaft size, but buy a size bigger and a size smaller than you need if you're doing this in the water as you probably don't want to run off to the store when you discover you've got the wrong size. I also strongly recommend "drip-free packing", you'll find it at most marine stores, but you still need the traditional flax packing to use in conjunction with this - get teflon impregnated flax.
The hardest part, (after getting the packing nut loose in most cases, but it sounds like this is not a problem in your case), is getting the old packing out. Get the tool for this, which looks like a miniature corkscrew - this helps you dig the old packing out.
There are probably a million different books on boat maintenance, but I highly recommend any boat owner to buy Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual." GREAT book and covers pretty much anything that comes up.
The dripless, or PSS shaft seals are a great new innovation, and they are used with great success on many, many boats. However, 2 caveats - they do have the potential for catastrophic failure, whereas a traditional stuffing box does not, (unless the lock nut as per the above is not doing its thing); secondly, they are a mechanical seal maintained by a rotating collar pressing, (via spring pressure), against a fixed flange - keeping the seal requires that the two surfaces stay mated and flush all the time, so engines with excessive vibration may have issues. As many Contessas have 1 cylinder engines, which typically jump around quite a lot, they may not be the best candidate for a PSS shaft seal. Probably can be done just fine by increasing the spring pressure, but something to consider.
Good luck.
30 2006-10-28 05:32:33
Re: Stuffing Box temperature (6 replies, posted in Technical)
It shouldn't get hot to the touch, if hot enough it can ruin the shaft, you should be able to get a good seal and the fitting stays at ambient temperature. You may have it tighter than it need be. If it is dry at rest, it still may drip a few drops a minute when the shaft is turning, which is fine. Stefan's suggestion is a good one; however, all you really need to do is repack the stuffing box. Last time round I used teflon dripless packing, playdough like stuff held between rings of traditional flax packing. Great stuff, no drips whatsoever at rest or in use.
31 2006-02-18 14:42:49
Re: Promotion of new site (11 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)
No pressure intended, I assure you. Glad you're still literate...er...literal even. Quite right, thanks Adrian for taking up the banner.
As for the parrot, that's quite easy - suggest you open a salty pub, The Sleazy Weasel, and make him/her the mascot.
32 2006-02-17 19:43:22
Re: Promotion of new site (11 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)
I don't know if Merrill is still reading or not, but re: mass e-mail - there was, a few years ago, an ongoing e-mail conversation to a fair number of the so-called "Groop". While some addresses may be out of date, might be worthwhile sending a message round. Merrill - do you still have this old list?
An good example of what seeadler was saying is myself - definitely interested in staying in touch, but life, busy distractions and other lame excuses kept me from checking in to the site for quite some while and I may well have not found the new site except for sheer chance of checking in now.
BTW & perhaps most importantly - thanks Merrill for starting this and keeping it going. Hope all is well with you.
33 2006-02-17 19:33:10
Re: LOOKING FOR A CONTESSA... (25 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
The duty to import a foreign boat to the US is generally 1.5%; however, thanks to NAFTA, there is no duty on importing a Canadian built boat. Of course, depending upon what state you live in, there is likely still a notable sales or use tax to pay, but you'll pay that on any boat you buy.
34 2006-02-17 19:23:58
Re: Documentation or manual for Bukh diesel (8 replies, posted in Technical)
PPS - if you need parts for a Bukh, I happened to deal with a fellow in Deale, MD when I needed an exhaust elbow who luckily happened to be a 20 minute drive from me. Real nice guy, very laid back and clearly was a part time thing for him, but delivered promptly, accurately, informatively and was a-ok doing business with - details below:
Waterway Diesel Center lnc.
P.O. Box 97
Deale, Maryland 20751-0097
USA Tel: +1-410-867-2182 / 261-5255
Fax: +1-410-867-3366
E-mail: wwaydc@toad.net
Contact: Davis H. Craven
35 2006-02-17 19:09:49
Re: Documentation or manual for Bukh diesel (8 replies, posted in Technical)
Oh yeah, the manuals are the same for the 8hp and the 10hp, and covers the saildrive version as well.
36 2006-02-17 19:07:11
Re: Documentation or manual for Bukh diesel (8 replies, posted in Technical)
I have both the "Owner's Manual" as well as the technical manual for the 1 cyl Bukh 10hp, both in fine condition. Happy to send anyone who wants them copies, the cost is simply letting me know you want one.