Your boat guy may have been generically describing 'sandblasting' meaning the hull would be 'bead' blasted with a relatively soft media like crushed walnut shells for instance. No way do you want to hull to be blasted with silica sand or any other agressive abrasive. If he wants to break thru the gel-coat regular old machine sanding is much preferred over blasting of any kind which will leave the hull surface highly irregular when you're finished. Machine sanding is the way I'd go but thats just my 2-cents.

This is an important point worth pondering which many may pass over that read the 'popular' boating books. I've personally talked to several people who have abandoned their vessels which were later recovered and all agree that the life-raft option was a poor mistake seen in hind-sight since they lost their 'base-camp' which was still viable even though half sunken. I think the option comes down to wanting to save yourself by navigation in a raft or wait for rescue staying near the hull even if semi-submerged. A lot has to do with the amount of damage the boat received and what can be repaired/pumped to make the hull somewhat useable. In a race situation you're always being watched so rescue is an alternative. In a cruising situation nobody knows you're even out there so you're on your own. Abandoning ship should always be the very last resort no matter how bad things may seem during the 'incident'. If you can keep the hull afloat even if the rails are totally submerged you have a chance of making a repair and pumping to get the boat navigable again, assuming of course that you were wise enough to install seriously sized pumps.

28

(3 replies, posted in For Sale)

Can you send some snapshots or provide a url to a site with photos. I have a client who would be interested in this boat.
We have an agent in San Diego who can inspect the boat for us. Send me a detailed 'particulars' on the vessel if you can.
Thanks
Gary

Your correct to get us back on track. The boat pictured is indeed a good representation of what the Contessa 26 can and should be in the hands of a dedicated owner. In my opinion the single most remarkable thing about these little boats is that they seem to have an almost indefinite lifespan as they are passsed down from owner to the next. They just keep on going. Every now and then they end up in the hands of somebody who wants to bring the boat up to it's true potential as witnessed above.

One of the problems with robust little boats like the 26 is that for their size they have a huge amount of hull surface (307 sq. ft.) which is more than many fin-keeled 32 footers. Add to this the massive lamination schedule and the costs in proportion to size skyrockets. If you decrease the lam. schedule you end up with just another day-sailer like all the rest. Our actual production costs for the new Contessa 26-II is right around 24000 USD just for the hull alone.

The overhead and taxes in the UK make production very expensive to begin with. Couple that with the fact that 26's are built to last and you end up with an expensive small boat but one that'll last a long time. Here in California I've seen Flicks's and Dana's sell for up to $115,000 and they can't begin to compare with a 26.

Jeremy Rogers has told me that the current selling price in the UK for a 'new' 26 would have to be around 70,000 pounds to make it feasible to produce them again. His yard typical refits old 26's for costs ranging from 10 to 15000 pounds.

34

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Your exactly right. The stock brackets suck big time. What's needed is a custom bracket that raises a full 24" at least before the motor tilts. It also helps to have a long shaft motor (20") compared to standard which is just 15". That way the bracket can be mounted about 6" below the rear cap rail instead of way down like it came from the factory.

35

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My outboard bracket was at the extreme edge of the tansom and after owning a monitor I don't think think the control sheet arm would be in the way of an outboard. Remember that an outboard can be mounted far off-center if necessary, sometimes even outside the deck sheer line as you see in some river boats that are 'side-steered'. Post a picture of your transom and I'll make some diagrams.

36

(28 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

My last Contessa came with a standard Hasler vane already installed as it was a boat purchased by a would-be entrant in the OSTAR that decided not the make the race. This incredibly simply vane worked like a charm on the boat. I've had Aries, Monitors and Hydrovanes as well as one other Hasler on various boats and in my opinion on full-length keel boats the vertical vanes are no better, perhaps even worse than the horizontal Hasler type. On a Storfidra that I bought with a Hasler vane already installed I decided to 'upgrade' to a monitor which proved to be a mistake as it was actually to sensitive and the boat was always tending to overcorrect. I reinstalled the Hasler and as far as I know the new owner is still using it. Sometimes, especially on boats with 'traditional' profiles the horizontal vanes work just fine and are much simplier and cheaper. It's easy to start small and cheap and then upgrade if needed to more sophisticated devices. I think Jester and similar boats are mostly still using the Hasler vanes with good success. I see very few small full length keel boats really needing the extra sensitivity of vertical vanes that might be better on fin-keeled cruisers or ultra-lights. Displacement and motion in a seaway has a lot to do with the way any particular vane performs. It's not just about how the the vane reacts to the apparant wind.

37

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

On the two boats I've owned one had a diesel inboard and one had a Johnson 5hp outboard. If I had it to over again I would select the outboard and build a better mounting bracket than what came with the boat and I'd use an outboard that had an integral fuel tank like the Seagulls. Speed-wise both boats were equal but with the outboard I could maneuver in close quarters much better plus it saved a huge amount of money in the up-front cost of the boat. In heavy weather even the diesel inboard (unless you have a big prop) isn't going to help much. Downside is that a big three blade on one of these small boats is a huge drag and you can literally feel the difference when sailing if you've had much experience in 26's with small 2 blades or outboards. You can mount a really big blade to an outboard that's only in the water when you need it. Problem is the mounting system which needs a lot of thought. Needs to be closer to the rudder as well. Actually a rudder mounted bracket is perhaps the best solution for the small outboard. Just my opinion for what it's worth.

38

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

We are presently talking with Jeremy Rogers about bringing this boat into production. I'd like to talk with present Co26 owners about 'improvements' they'd like to see in a Mark II version of the boat but it seems like this forum is in somewhat of a flux based upon the spam I've seen. If anybodies interested in seeing a new Co26 back on the market please email or call me. This is a serious project and if I can't find support from prior owners here it leads me to believe that maybe there is no demand for this boat in the future.

39

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

40

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

41

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

Don't know if this is of interest but I'm working on a set of lines for a hull based upon the Contessa 26. I've owned two of the boats and always wanted to modify the design a little so the result are my interpretation of slight improvements.
Not sure how to upload drawings so somebody let me know how to proceed.
Thanks.