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I believe best practice would be to *REPLACE* existing joint fastening rivets if glassing up the joint without grinding out and structurally taping it.  You don't know how badly corroded the existing rivets are and as Epoxy or polyester resin isn't as resilient as sealant, and salt water aluminium corrosion invariably expands many times the volume of the parent metal, if you seal up existing active corrosion, the forces generated can split the joint.

J Rogers (UK) boats have an upturned flange that is purely resin bonded - no rivets at all, with the joint capped by the toe rail and usually no rubbing strip whatsoever.   IMHO a preferable method of construction, but if the joint does partially fail, we tend to have trouble with the encapsulated wooden stringer  the edge of the deck sits on.

There is no quick fix, no easy fix - the job needs doing right.

You wont be able to get screws to hold reliably in sealant so will have to glass up all the holes and redrill them if you go down that road. 

Through bolting will work but unless the hole is in good tight condition, even a light bump on the rubbing strip will be likely to break the bond between the sealant and the bolt thread and start a leak.  If the strip gets a severe ding or catches on something, you are likely to get a lot of damage round the bolt holes

Personally, I'd get aluminium closed end pop rivets with an aluminium mandrel (don't mix metals due to corrosion) and install each with a dab of sealant.  If the hole is slightly enlarged and there is inside access, a close fitting stainless washer can be used on the inside, but badly wallowed out holes will need glassing up and redrilling.  The mandrel holes in all rivet heads must be plugged or carefully filled with sealant to minimise corrosion which would weaken the body of the rivet. Make sure you use countersunk head rivets and that the head ends up slightly below the rubbing strip surface so a ding that compresses the sealant slightly doesn't force the rivet in, breaking the bond between it and the hole sides and starting a leak.

Aluminium is not an easy metal to adhesively bond due to the oxide layer that rapidly forms on freshly cut surfaces. If you rebed the whole rubbing strip, you will need to sand the back of it to clean metal, then after cleaning and degreasing, lightly sand the surface and IMMEDIATELY smear with a very thin coat of sealant to get a good bond.  Once that's done, you have as long as that coat remains even slightly tacky to get it bedded in place with additional sealant.  Another approach is to sand through a puddle of G4 pond sealer  (to exclude atmospheric oxygen) then wipe off leaving a trace behind as a primer.  Its polyurethane based so polyurethane sealants bond well to it while its still tacky. If you let it dry past that you will need to sand it off and start over.

Small drogues can make a significant difference!

We once spent a week stormbound in Braye harbour, Alderney.  A bucket rigged from the end of the spinnaker pole to just break the surface as we rolled made the difference between rolling our guts out all night and being just about stable enough to make tea in the morning.

A local Co26 on a mooring further in near the Lifeboat mooring was actually rolling her gunwales under a fair bit of the time.  We chafed though three bucket lanyards that week and spent so much of the daytime in the Braye Harbour hotel, they gave us residents privileges!

Not uncommon on many forums.   If you have written a long reply, its always a good idea to select all and ctrl-C (copy) before hitting the submit button.  If its complex with a lot of images etc. you may also want to open another tab or window and check you are still logged in before submitting.

If you've also got a round "dustbin lid" hatch for the stern locker she probably is an English import.

Use Duralac on *every* fastening going into an aluminium spar.   Use insulating gaskets under *every* stainless fitting  you have to remove or replace.

Its much better for the spreader and the socket to have some flexible packing between them as it reduces point loading, corrosion and fatigue.

My spreaders that have nearly identical sockets had badly degraded rubber liners in the sockets and rather more space to wobble than yours. I replaced them with collars cut from sanitation hose (which was the best match in thickness and resilience to the remains of the old liner) that was a press fit on the spreader end. I liberally smeared the spreader end with Duralac to prevent poultice corrosion before assembly.   It looks like your spreaders could benefit from some collars cut from bicycle inner tube as the gap you need to take up is quite a bit smaller.  *DONT* forget the Duralac!

Its a tradeoff. 

Traditional reefing: Ramshorn hook or similar at gooseneck, reefing lines led to jammers on boom at gooseneck, reef points to tidy up the foot.  Its low friction, simple and cheap, but you need a competent helm and crew + the crew must be reasonably fit.  Can be <expletive> scary if you've left it a bit too late in worsening conditions. If any lines are led aft, its a PITA that may need extra cockpit crew. 

Single line reefing - needs *ALL* lines led aft, including topping lift, kicker and lasyjacks.   Needs a stackpack or similar to control the loose flap of sail.  High friction, complex and expensive, but if you are singlehanding inshore or your crew is less physically able, you may not be able to cope without it.

Sliding hatches are great - till they leak!
If you have one with a hatch garage that has small drainholes, you soon learn to carry a pack of pipecleaners for cleaning them out.

Our keyhole hatch and hump is actually quite a bit stronger and far more resistant to damage if the deck is swept by a breaking wave.

That's why you *NEVER* stay in the danger zone on the lee side of the mainsheet and traveller car for a second longer than you have to and always check the car is secure before entering the zone.  Downwind, always check with the helm before entering the zone on the windward side of the mainsheet etc. unless a preventer is rigged.

Its reasonable for a fresh and fully competent crew to be expected to remember and respect the danger zones, but if you have less experienced crew, or they are tired, and the skipper isn't an absolute disciplinarian who'd cuss out his own mother for dawdling in the danger zone, you are pushing the odds every time.

I'm just glad you learnt the lesson without serious permanent disablement.

The horse is straight.   (well at least straightish - there are a few slight kinks from nearly 50 years of use and a few accidental heavy weather gybes)

To fit a track, I'd have to rebuild the whole thing with a rectangular tube as I believe drilling the round tube to mount a track would weaken it too much but as the existing setup works well enough and I dont really want to spend approx £1000 to do it right. it isn't a priority.  I have considered fitting a roller car that will run on the existing tube, but the coxcombed shackle is extremely robust and rarely gives any trouble, unless you leave the mainsheet slack with the tackle centered, which tends to result in the bottom mainsheet block fouling the tiller.