Topic: New standing rigging

Completely replacing the standing rigging on a 1975 Co26.

Previous posts recommended 7/32, with 1/4 for the forestay. Considering doing all at 1/4. Is there any downside to going up two sizes? Is the weight factor noticeable?

For the backstay, what defines the optimal placement for the bridal? Seems like the stern chainplates would admit a range of lengths on the lower strands.


Thanks,
Antonio

PS Anyone who can recommend a good discount rigging supplier, would be happy to hear from you.

Re: New standing rigging

We have two independent backstays all the way to the tang at the mast head. A split backstay  has 3 wires with 6 terminals between them which gives three times the chance of failure. Unless the split is very high up, if either lower leg fails, there is enough slack to break a mast.  If anything carries away I stand a much better chance of keeping the stick pointing up!  Kazbek has been rigged that way for at least 25 years, and it may even be original.  Forestay, cap shrouds and lowers are 1/4" (or near metric equivalent) and the backstays are a size smaller.  Again, its been that way through a couple of owners.

Re: New standing rigging

i rerigged with all 7/32 and sta-loks.  looking back, the fittings were the same price for 1/4 or 7/32. 

only thing is with heavier rigging you need to tighten things down even more to get acceptable tension in the rig

Re: New standing rigging

The twin backstay idea is an interesting thought.

Stefan, that's interesting that heavier rigging (which I would assume stretches or yields less) has to be tightened more to provide the same tension. But perhaps I shouldn't think of steel cable as rope.

Re: New standing rigging

On Joie de Vivre, the split portion of the backstay is made from a single wire.  A thimble is used where the split portion meets the upper portion.  Therefore fewer pieces and fewer chances for failure.  The double backstay is a neat idea.  Since the mast is supported twice, I wonder if a rigger would suggest a lighter wire to make the backstays.

On a side note, from this junction also hangs about 12" of wire terminating in a snap shackle.  This supports the boom instead of the toppinglift when in port.  The advantage is greater stability, as I often lean on the boom when boarding or moving about the boat.

Re: New standing rigging

Christopher,

The current rig on the boat is exactly what you describe, down to the snap shackle holding up the boom. It's probably less failure prone than a bridle.

I'll go to my local rigging shop and see what they think about the idea(s). Still plowing through The Rigger's Apprentice so I won't sound like an ignoramus...

Re: New standing rigging

Good day Antoniogm!

Have the conversation with a good rigger but I expect they will say stick with the wire diameters that you have.  When the boat was designed, all the standing rigging would have been spec'd for the boat's needs including a safety factor.  I assume you are not adding huge new sails so the rigging loads will not have changed.  Ironically, I would expect that the quality of the wire will have improved over the years and the loads supported by the 7/32 wire are now slightly higher than they were previously.

I believe the lower shrouds on my boat are 3/16 wire but I would have to check to be certain.  I would expect these to be lighter than the upper shrouds.

In terms of the backstay configuration, our set-up works like a charm and I see no reason to change it.

On my boat I have 1/4 wire for the forestay which I had to replace four years ago as part of a repair to the furler.  At that time my rigger said that the 1/4" wire was overkill but I stuck with it for peace-of-mind as the wire lives hidden under the furler extrusion.

Also, ask the rigger if your standing rigging *needs* to be changed.  In my experience we sometimes get projects into our heads that are not necessary or can be deferred in favour of other projects. 

The pedigree of your Contessa ensures that you won't sound like an ignoramus because you've chosen such a great boat!

Re: New standing rigging

Good day Antoniogm!

Have the conversation with a good rigger but I expect they will say stick with the wire diameters that you have.  When the boat was designed, all the standing rigging would have been spec'd for the boat's needs including a safety factor.  I assume you are not adding huge new sails so the rigging loads will not have changed.  Ironically, I would expect that the quality of the wire will have improved over the years and the loads supported by the 7/32 wire are now slightly higher than they were previously.

I believe the lower shrouds on my boat are 3/16 wire but I would have to check to be certain.  I would expect these to be lighter than the upper shrouds.

In terms of the backstay configuration, our set-up works like a charm and I see no reason to change it.

On my boat I have 1/4 wire for the forestay which I had to replace four years ago as part of a repair to the furler.  At that time my rigger said that the 1/4" wire was overkill but I stuck with it for peace-of-mind as the wire lives hidden under the furler extrusion.

Also, ask the rigger if your standing rigging *needs* to be changed.  In my experience we sometimes get projects into our heads that are not necessary or can be deferred in favour of other projects. 

The pedigree of your Contessa ensures that you won't sound like an ignoramus because you've chosen such a great boat!

Christopher

Re: New standing rigging

I would recommend checking with Seco South in Largo FL (727 536 1924) for anything in the way of standing rigging and lifelines.  They are an OEM supplier to some higher end boats built in the Southeast US, but also sell to retail customers like ourselves. I've used them several times to replace complete standing rigs and been very pleased with the service and the price.  I'll use them when I get around to replacing the rig on my Contessa.  Chris

Re: New standing rigging

Asked the rigger at Svendsen's, a big boat yard in Alameda. He says stay with the old sized rigging. Bigger wire implies bigger forces for the same tension, which might put unexpected stress on other parts of the boat. The margins the designer built in should be way over kill already. I think I'll follow his advice. Thanks for all the comments.

Re: New standing rigging

Finally got the rigging all measured.

Looks like it's mostly 3/16" actually, with 1/4" pins. Seems kind of light to me, but the rigger indicated that upgrading to 7/32 would necessarily require larger pins, and hence larger chainplates (he dismissed drilling out the current ones, as it would thin out the tang too much).

Everyone here seems to indicate a size up in rigging. Did you also change the chainplates? Is 3/16" the production rigging size the Contessa shipped with?

Thanks, A.

Re: New standing rigging

3/16 was stock, 7/32 for the forestay.

i rerigged all with 7/32.  was the same price for the wire as 3/16.....

i had to make new chainplates  - new pins were 3/8 for everything.

Re: New standing rigging

Yeah, the chainplates are an issue. Don't think I want to do such major surgery right now. Although, in the case of the Contessa, assuming the bulkhead is sound, doesn't look like it would be too hard just bolt in sturdier ones.

I'll do 3/16 for everything, but try to beef up the forestay. The deck fitting for the forestay is two rather dinky-looking tangs, which go to a crossbolt, which goes through the stemhead fitting. The tang won't accept a 3/8 inch pin, so I'll likely have to replace them. Strangely, a previous owner fit a small bowsprit and anchor roller over the stemhead, so I'll have to take all that off to get to it. More wrenching...

Thanks for the information.