New Engine for Morava

I like the way you think.

So far the Kubota OC95 9.5 HP before taxes and installation is running at $3,420.  Will let you know once I hear about the Yanmar.

Two things:
- Now that EQUINOX is out of Tim's shop where it was cared for and coddled it is now at its' mooring in Mass. where I'm left to my own devices. Presently I'm trying  to figure out the boom outhaul, reefing and mainsail tack. My main sail has three reefs and there are three lines in the boom running forward to three stoppers at the forward end. The outboard end of these lines run through three sheaves and out.. Are these three lines for the three reefs or is the center line for the outhaul and the two on either side for two of the three reefs?  The gooseneck at the mast has a double reef hook but no way of fastening  mainsail, tack.  My rig is a 1986 Crindel.
-I've got a low hour Bukh DV8 that needs a home.

dont think that oc95 is the right beast for the job...

i'll meet up with you this summer, and you can see the proper re-installation that i did for the yanmar 1gm10, and hear it run etc.

properly installed and mounted, the beta twin cylinder would be a much better choice.  the only issue being that to mount the engine properly, it has to come pretty far forward and this usually involves relieving the boat a bit.  the intention being that you really don't want to have (or should) to modify the engine's mount brackets, rather rebuild or modify the engine beds in the boat.

is eastern marine who quoted you on the engine?  if youre looking for an installer they do beautiful work.

there is a guy on boatforsale.org who advertises yanmars avail in kingston.  i might even considering buying a diesel in new york state and bringing it back if youre having a third party install the engine.  or thinking of tackling it yourself.

beta is a twin cylinder engine, with a kubota block.  parts are more readily available, as youre not dealing with yanmar dealers and protected dealer territory.

the yanmar runs ok for a single, is compact, pretty simple and proven/bulletproof.  i would say easier to work on in the confines of a contessa 26, international parts availability, etc. 

i had no idea that the price tag on the single yanmar was that much.

the engine beds are there, everything else is there...

i might even be convinced to take on some winter business

whats parts availability like?  i seem to remember jcfoto having to do some work on a farymann

Perhaps you should talk to Bob Porter about his Bukh that he just replaced with a Yanmar. I know he felt it was too exotic, but mine has run fine, and I've had no problem getting parts. A fellow named Davis Craven in Maryland is licensed dealer, and was very pleasant to work with. Could be a cost-effective interim solution. BTW - I'm no expert on engines, but I believe that Kubota engine is primarily used to run gensets, and wouldn't be the best choice as auxiliary power. All things being equal, I'd choose the Yanmar - not because they're necessarily better, but their worldwide distributorship is second to none. You can get parts just about anywhere in the world.

No, no, no? Bit rude hey?

Interestingly, I buy filters for my Bukh at Napa.

Thanks for this.  Good catch on the fact that Yanmar is not producing the 1 cy anymore, this is a key factor in my decesion.  Rbporter I will check out Tim's site again on the engine installation, but I forget, did he have to move engine forward and off the current engine beds?

Cheers

I rebuilt a 20 year old 1GM10 last winter.  Crankshaft skimmed, new undersize bearings, new rings and a new head. Runs like new for a fraction of the price.  Now I know production has stopped I'll have to look harder for a good used spare gearbox (the old one works fine but is out of spec for wear) and starter.

The problem is that the common failure mode for the  one piece mild steel injection elbow is for the inner sleeve to pinhole near the top and let cooling water impinge on the exhaust passage in the head which sooner or later rusts through to the pushrod galleries and meanwhile the exhaust valve and seat are suffering badly.  I have a head that looked fine until I started digging the crud out of this passage and found it had holed through.  The passage will have to be machined out and a tubular insert brazed in to fix it.  The OEM head was a package deal with new valves already fitted and as I was running short of time I didn't proceed with fixing the old one.

I'd concentrate on avoiding the whole problem by improving the injection elbow.  It shouldn't be too difficult to get a two piece one made up to the same pattern as the OEM one only with the inner sleeve on a separate thinner flange that the flange on the outer tube bolts on top of.  You'll need to talk to a good custom muffler shop for advice on what's going to be most corrosion resistant.

The OEM elbow is definably a wear item and needs a close inspection using a torch and a dental mirror annually.  Also it's crazy to lay the engine up with either the exhaust or the water hose attached to the elbow.  It really needs both removed and fogging oil or similar applied then bag it up in plastic with a fresh silica gel dessicant sachet up the elbow.  Same treatment to the inlet manifold after removing and washing out the foam air filter and make sure both valves are closed and you'll not be needing a new head.   

Water pump problems are a whole other issue.  If it starts weeping it will sooner or later cause serious corrosion of the mild steel oil line directly below it  and then its a matter of luck whether you catch it in time or have it blow under way and seize the engine.  If this line starts corroding have a replacement made up in copper pipe, DONT buy the OEM one! The banjo ends can be reused and brazed on the new line.  Also a sustained drip can result in excessive corrosion of the timing cover and possible loss of the thread in the lower bolt hole of the water pump mounting.  If mine deteriorates further I'll have to get it welded and re-tap the hole.  USE DURALAC on the water pump mounting bolts and I've cut a drip shield from thin polythene sheet that goes under the pump base flange to keep any future weeps off the timing cover and oil line.

The OEM engine mounts are also a disaster waiting to happen and priced like they were gold plated. After-market ones are available which are fuel and oil resistant, fully captive so the engine can't break loose in a knockdown  and also are more compact and make it easier to fit the engine in.  They also are around 1/4 the price!  In the USA an adaptor plate is available to match the OEM mount bolt holes and height for an exact drop in replacement, but I chose to rebuild the beds rather than import a set.