Just add tack pennants for smaller sails that would have sheeting positions uncomfortably close to the forward end of the track. With modern easy to splice Vectran, Dyneema or Spectra hollow braid easily available, each sail that needs it can have an individual tack pennant permanently spliced on with little risk of chafe or damage in the bag. Don't forget to fit a hank or small shackle right at the tack to transfer the foot tension to the forestay. Roller furling sails need a slug here or a very well attached boltrope that extends down the pennant. If you are getting a storm jib, it should NOT have a pennant, but should instead have a very high cut foot so it doesn't need one. Talk to your sailmaker!
For ghosters etc. just use the spinny sheets and turning blocks right aft. They will set better with the lighter sheets anyway. Lead angle can then be controlled with twingers on the sheets led through the genoa fairleads on the tracks or through blocks on any convenient strong point outboard of the primaries (my preference as the jib sheets are in one piece with a quick release at the clew) to the spinny winches, while the sheets are handled on the primaries.
A pair of really good high load snatch blocks with positive locking gates would be useful. Alternatively (or as well) keeping clip on plain blocks permanently threaded on a pair of sheets that can be used for pole guys, preventers, twingers etc. Obviously you then need to add padeyes forward and aft of the track ends and anywhere else an extra strongpoint is needed, but it is cheaper, neater when not in use, less prone to walking off is some thief's pocket, and also as quick if not quicker to rig than permanently mounted 'idle' blocks for some or all of these duties. Don't cheapen out the end fittings on those sheets. If you cant afford really good light high load ones, it is better to have a pair of over size plastic thimbles (as used for eye splices) you can tie bowlines round when used as twingers and tie the sheets on for all the other applications.