• Registered: 2012-09-05
  • Posts: 165

Topic: Anchor Chain Question

I just got my Rocna 10 (22#) anchor the other day.  I'm planning on going with an all-chain anchor rode that is stowed in the compartment forward of the V-berth.  I was hoping to get some recommendations on size chain you would use?  And also, I was thinking about getting 200 ft and does anyone know if there would be room in the bow compartment for that much chain?  And I'd also be interested to know how you are rigging a snubber for an all chain rode (maybe a heavy rubber shock cord would do the trick)?   Thanks,  Brian

2 Reply by Ian Malcolm (edited by Ian Malcolm 2012-11-20 00:49:40)

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Anchor Chain Question

I've got 100' of 5/8" chain and 100' of 16mm octoplait nylon warp.   Saves quite a bit of weight but maintains the deep water/heavy weather anchoring capability.  As I have an early JR boat, there's no anchor locker and the warp and chain go down a chain pipe to a side locker under the V berth.   You certainly don't want 200' of 5/8"  chain right up in the bow!    For a snubber when I only have chain out, I rolling hitch some 12mm nylon octoplait to the chain, cleat off and let out another 6' of chain so the rope carries the load.  Chain shackles are expensive and not very kind to the chain.  Chain hooks are not to be trusted unwatched.   If its really snotty, I'll add a heavy rubber mooring snubber on the rope and run it through some fabric reinforced hose for chafe protection.

  • Registered: 2012-09-05
  • Posts: 165

Re: Anchor Chain Question

Ian,  that is very interesting and helpful to hear about your anchoring equipment.  Thanks for your input.

4 Reply by Ian Malcolm (edited by Ian Malcolm 2012-11-20 01:24:56)

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Anchor Chain Question

Its not an ideal setup as the chain pipe is near the bow and it doesn't self stow.   The chain pipe below decks is 2" plastic waste pipe and I have the top of the chain pipe attached to the deck fitting via a short length of wire reinforced flexible hose so a crewmember can pull the pipe aft to distribute the chain.   It also needs a crew member handy in the forepeak to clear any jams when paying out as it could do with being either a significantly larger diameter or a little smaller with a metal bottom fitting with a smoothly rounded entry to stop the chain jamming.   The bunk has to be cleared and the top of the locker  has to be opened when paying out so the pipe is free to swing as if the chain is well stowed and it doesn't try to drag it forward it wont jam.

I think it was the original owner who got rid of the central chain pipe that was a straight drop into the deep aft center locker in the V berth so must have self-stowed nicely and run freely. I suspect domestic harmony was not enhanced by a sizable pipe blocking easy access forward and dividing couples in the V berth. Unfortunately I cant reinstate it without a mutiny as the cook grabbed that locker for our heavier provisions!

Although the deck fitting is the usual upsidown truncated J pipe with a flap, it helps to lash a heavy plastic bag over it in heavy weather to reduce the amount of moisture that gets below.

The chain and warp are marked every 5 meters so scope of 5 x depth can easily be allowed.   The anchor lives in deck chocks and is lashed in place.  I also have fitted a chain pawl for easier recovery, NOT on the stem head but aft of the forestay, slightly offset so the chain clears the fitting.   

Breaking out a well dug in anchor is likely to need a line back to a primary winch with a snatch block to the toe rail near the jib track if you don't have a windlass.  I don't like using a mast winch on a deck stepped mast for horizontal loads.  Could be embarrassing if a big wash came past right at maximum load and the mast jumped the step or the heel tenon failed.