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Topic: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

Does anyone have or can direct me to specific information on the construction of the J.J.Taylor Contessa 26, specifically, for the 1985 vintage?  It seems reasonable that there must have been a owner/user manual at one time.  And, perhaps, a shop manual?  Were details of the JJT's construction made available when they ceased production?  Some specific questions I have are:

1.  Height of the transom rail above the static water line?
2.  Angle of the transom to the static water line?
3.  Thickness of the transom?

I would like to have full detailed construction infomation/dimensions for future modifications and additions.  Can anyone help?  Thanks for any details/ideas/direction/suggestions/etc.

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

1.  Height of the transom rail above the static water line?

     are you talking about the stainless life rails or the deck cap ?

2.  Angle of the transom to the static water line?

     this is covered somewhere online here, i think its about 53 degrees

3.  Thickness of the transom?

     quite thick where my exhaust went thru, i'd say pushing 1.5 inches ? not sure if  this is true everywhere

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Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

height to the deck cap ( which I hope means the teak board on top of the transom fiberglass? )  tks, tom

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

On my JJT CO26, built in 1981:

1.  Height of the transom rail above the static water line?   
     At Centerline, transom cap rail to DWL = ~67cm (~26 3/8 inches)

2.  Angle of the transom to the static water line?   
     approx ~48 Degrees

3.  Thickness of the transom?   
     ~3cm (~1.2 inches)

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

Hi Guys,
I'm the past owner of CO 26 #226, I recivied a inquiry from a new owner on the spreaders. As our boat is gone and still sorely missed, I can't measure the spreaders. Does anyone here have or willing to measure the dimentions of the spreader tubes and the end castings? If so He can be contacted at (joe@oceantechserv.com) I assured Him this Groop would come through, don't let me down!

Stan Hullett
CO 26 #226
Hanky Panky

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

Mine (1976) are 1 5/16" dia.  I do not know the length

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

My Contessa is a 1976.

Spreader:

1.308 inch diameter.
.122 thickness
30.5625 (30 9/16) length including the aluminium cap.

There is a aluminium cap at the end of the spreader
cap = 0.75 inch length
the groove begin at 5/16 of the end of the cap
the grooves are 1/4 width and it cut  in 2 ways.

Do you need a picture?

marc

Contessa 26 #158
Sun Wave
Montreal QC

8 (edited by Michael Meyering 2014-02-15 15:56:17)

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

after an hour of searching online I found this source: http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spartan_Sp … prdrs.html
other brands are also listed.

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

I am guessing the interest in the Transom dimensions is for Self Steering.  Most of the steering builders have the Contessas on file and will be able to tell you what you need.  Take a look at the Cape Horn especially posts which I made here regarding an elegant off-set version.

Christopher

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

To my knowledge, the older masts are out of production so you will have to be creative in order to replace the spreaders.  A rigger will be able to set you up with some appropriate aluminum tubing (correct wall thickness and grade of aluminum (6061 I believe)) and might have some ideas for end caps.  Worst case I would make end caps from oak or PVC.  The plumbing section in hardware stores always has interesting ideas, especially since these spreaders will be round.

As for the specific dimensions of the older spreaders my 1976 boat is buried here in snowy Montreal so look to others for the details (unless you want to wait until spring!).  I would concentrate on the mast step.

Cheers!

Christopher

11 (edited by Ian Malcolm 2014-02-17 02:11:24)

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

DONT make end caps out of oak or PVC as the crushing load on them can be extreme.  My original end caps are cast aluminium plugs with a vertical groove for the shroud in the protruding end (which is the same diameter as the tube exterior). The shroud is retained with a stainless strap with two right angle bends to fit round the end of the cap and through bolted horizontally with two bolts right through the strap the side of the tube,  the plug, the other side of the tube and the other end of the strap..    Anyone with a lathe could turn one for you out of aluminium bar stock quite easily, and the shroud grooves you could cut yourself, finishing with a round file fractionally larger than the shroud diameter.   Don't forget vinyl tape under the strap to isolate the dissimilar metals and Duralac bedding everything to prevent rapid  corrosion. 

The sockets at my spreader roots originally had rubber collars or something similar.   The spreader is through-bolted vertically through the sockets.   I found that offcuts of white heads intake hose was the perfect diameter and resilience to replace the decayed remnants of the collars, with more Duralac under it to prevent poultice corrosion.

Re: Construction/Dimensions/Specifications/Drawings

Good advice! 

Thanks Ian!  It's been years since I had the boots off the ends of my spreaders so I had forgotten the details inside.  I had assumed the real work was done by the aluminum tubes with the plugs acting to prevent chafe and keep the shrouds in place.

Cheers!

Christopher