Topic: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

1. Add two 5-6” diameter drains from aft cockpit bulkhead (6-8” above sole) to transom.  Provide caps to seal off.
2. Glass in lower companionway opening to greatest height that would still allow entrance with foul weather gear and lifejacket on.
3. Add a polycarbonate observation dome in coachroof for observation when “buttoned up”.
4. Move chainplates to outside of hull.  Lengthen spreaders so that upper shrouds are parallel below spreaders.
5. Throw out Furlex and replace with 5/16” (8mm) headstay.  Upsize all other standing rigging to ¼” using Norseman or SwageloK connections everywhere.  Perhaps double the backstays and beef-up the transom tangs and backing plates.
6. Provide internally operated locking devices for port and starboard lazarette hatches along with super seals on all three.
7. Move the engine control panel to inside the cabin. 
8. Replace the overweight rudder (80-90 pounds) with a carbon filament reinforced casting (design goal 35-40#). 
9. Add approx 350# external lead ballast (FRP encapsulated) to keel lower surface.  Incorporate lower rudder bearing into keel.
10. Design/build an engine restraining mechanism to keep the engine in-line during rough conditions.
11.  Make a series of appointments with a shrink.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Excellent! A pro will always be a pro.

No. 11 is already taken care of, then I'll start going backwards.
But Merill, is it necessary to have the chainplates to outside of hull? What about reinforcing the knees and bolting some mega chain plates with backing plates in the existing place and then have 8mm uppers and forestay wire?
What about the windows? Shouldn't we have Lexan or 1/2 inch Plexiglass and a fiberglass door (submarine type, as seen on the French Open 60s) with big handles so we can close ourselves in when it gets a bit windy out there?

As for the rest, hats off.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Outer chain plates make it easier to move forward and removes any chance of leakage. To hell with the tacking angle. My windows are already polycarbonate (high impact strength).  Acrylic (plexiglas)has poor impact resistance (even at 1/2").  My companionway "boards" (three) are 12mm polycarbonate. You're right, they'll need a super means for locking from the inside. 8mm uppers may be an overkill, but it's cheep stuff.  You may want to add a baby stay to the list for a small storm jib or high clewed "mule".  Also a good booze locker.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

How about a 3 gallon stainless Rum tank underneath the engine, in the bilge.  A little Whale foot pump and you're set!  It's ballast as long as you keep it full......

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Jeeezed, Stef, only rotgut rum can be kept in stainless.  For the good stuff (Mount Gay & Capt Morgan) you need crockery.  O gawwd, you young guys have so much to learn.  Otherwise, it's a fantastic idea.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Can you pump three hundred gallons of Gosling's to the high-side and use it as rum ballast on those rainy days?

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Three HUNDRED gallons?  Thats just a little out of my budget range...  Just because everyone thinks you have money cause you have a boat, doesn't mean.........

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

On the subject of moving the chain plates outboard to clear the passage to the foredeck, wouldn't the lower shrouds obstruct the way?  It seems to me that you would want to move the upper shroud chain plates out and move the lower shroud chain plates in(probably to the cabin sides) of course with additional reinforcement to carry the load to the hull.  Just a thought.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Moving the chain plates outboard and increasing the spreader length (so the the uppers are parallel) is to give greater strength to the overall rig and to lessen the possibility of deck leakage.  Getting a slightly better passage along the weather decks is a freebee and should be considered as a slight dab of frosting on the cake and nothing more.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

The heavy rudder places its weight at the extreme end of boat.  Any weights at either end of any boat causes hobby-horsing.  That's why, when using all chain for the anchor, the chain is lead via a pipe to a storage area (ideally) at the center of the vessel.  The heavy rudder also contributes to pintle and gudgeon loads that increase as the mass of the rudder increases.  In sloppy seas, this can be significant.  Weight is seldom a component of strength.  I mentioned the use of carbon fiber for construction.  Kevlar is another possibility.  With proper design and construction, it would not be unusual to half the weight (mass) and double the strength.

I didn't say anything about attaching the additional ballast with bolts. I said "FRP encapsulated".

My fuel tank is well restrained and would easily survive a roll. 

"Design/build an engine restraining mechanism".  I should have been more clear with this.  The restraining gear would have to be such that the engine would not shift during a roll.  It would not always be in-place but quickly put into operation when needed.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

A Yanmar on a set of Yanmar mounts would't move much if inverted, as long as the mounts were good....  Should wind up in the same place when you get the heavy side down and shiny side up again?....

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

You're probably right if the roll was a sweet and gentle one and not preceeded by a day or two of pounding through all sorts of slop and you didn't trip off a wave top while hollering "Oh Shit!".  But I wouldn't be planning for anything so benign and would lock the sucker down big time.  The last thing that I would need (afer being terrified for a reasdonable period of time)would be to find that my engine had come adrift and ferneubled my shaft log that, by the way, was leaking like a beer hound after a Saturday night bash.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Good stuff!

So it seems the most intrusive mods would be the keel and the rig, in that order.

Then comes the rum tank...

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

You got it, Chris. Keep in mind that the rum tank should be the first priority.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

There is a book "My old Man and Sea?" that was about father-son trip around the Horn in their 25' sailboat they built.  It is an interesting story and they did not have too much trouble getting around the Horn.  One has to get around the Horn before the end of January.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Do you mean to tell me that I've wasted my entire summer replacing my waterlogged plywood decks?  When all I needed was rum and wind?  Geeeeezz.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Didn't see that last post...  Theres *two* pages...  Wow.

The guys from the book were smart.  They didn't have an engine to worry about.  One less thing to pick out of the bilge........

A couple of pad eyes on the engine beds and some ratchet straps then - cinch em down when you're done motoring.  And a notice on the panel: "Remove before... Bang. Stop.  (starting)."

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

When you get to Halifax be sure to stay at the Armdale Yacht Club.  We have four Contessa 26s here: Eagh Marrey, Tantrum, Freehold, and...um...another one formerly known as Dragonfly II.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Yes, this summer I launched at Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron before departing for Bermuda. Beautiful place indeed.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

If I might throw in a few comments on this subject.  First, adding a 350 pounds to the foot of the keel makes sense but the additional weight aloft due to the heavier wire (and possibly a radar dome) will cancel out any stability benefits the extra weight might offer.  I am also concerned that the boat's stability will be further compromised by the weight of all the gear and supplies stowed in the cabin.  Since space is at a premium, the boat's center of gravity is certain to rise.

I also believe that these boats are already overbuilt.  Compare them to other boats that have made such voyages.  Also, when was the last time one of us lost their mast?  If I am sailing in conditions where my mast in in serious jeporady then I expect to have a great number of other more pressing problems, such as waves, and staying on board, and being wet and cold.

So far we do not know if we are travelling alone or with a companion.  My preference is the latter of course but this exacerbates the challenge as you will read below.  Basically, work out your personal needs and then multiply by at least two.

Now here is the real problem with these boats.  Day-to-day living.  Next time you go sailing, set the boat on a beat, healed over to 25 degrees or so, and then spend an hour below making lunch.  Try dressing.  Try Sleeping.  Will you sleep in the V-Berth or in one of the quarter berths?  Which one?  Then try reading a chart.  Where will you keep your charts?  How about today's chart?  And what happens when you open that ice box to retrieve your rum bottle?  Where will the chart go?  When heeled 25 degrees it will be on the cabin floor for certain, as will everything else.  And because there are no good options for what to do with foul weather gear (remember we are paying a visit to Cape Horn) all below will not only be chaos but will be wet too.

Next, what about supplies?  Food and water?  Clothes (remember that we will pass from the tropics to the sub-arctic and back)?  Sails and miscellaneous gear?  These boats are tolerable for a week's cruising but one would have to give a lot more thought to stowage before heading off on such a long voyage. 

Watermaker?  Probably a good idea.  But powering this and the rest of our toys will be part of another post on this subject.  What about cold?  A diesel fired furnace such as Espar's would be a great thing but adds both complexity and cost to our boat.  (Aside:  it is a pity that I cannot think of a good place to install a small stove such as a Force 10 as these are much less expensive!  Sigh.)

Basic priorities then:  safety (meaning keep the boat afloat and ourselves on board), then protection from the elements (read warm and dry), closely followed by food and drink (assuming one can keep anything down).  I believe that the boats are quite capable of making this trip as presented (although I do like the idea of a water-tight lower hatch board).  The question that I would like to propose is what changes are necessary to ensure that WE can make the trip?

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

By real rough back yard calculations, beefing up the rigging will add 10 lbs max aloft.  At 15 ft above the center of buoyancy, that would equate to (more back yard calcs) 150 ft lbs.  While the added ballast (down 4’+) would provide 1200+ ft lbs to counter that.

In my humble opinion, the JJT boats are not overbuilt.  The many comments that I’ve heard over the years, e.g. bullet proof, bomb proof, are all based on myth.  On close inspection, the boats that I’ve surveyed, including my own, are of average construction quality with examples of sloppy workmanship here and there.  The strength of the boat is in its design where the narrow wineglass hull and fine entry keeps hull and rigging loads low in rough conditions.   

Your comments on amenities are well taken.  Getting the boat there with her crew half-dead would probably not be considered a totally successful venture.  Good thinking.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

I agree with you too, Christopher. That's the beauty of it. I think smh's comments were very smart, based on rational and sound judgement combined with the voice of experience. You too are right.
I believe the boat would make it but we are the weakest link in the system.
People often make 2 mistakes when they go offshore: they're not in good shape and they didn't sail their boats enough.
Being in good physical shape is a prerequisite here, because physically this is the Everest. Mental strength is THE MOST decisive factor in all this. A solid inner structure is required in an individual here, because obviously this is not a place for the faint-hearted.
Patience is another virtue, the lack of which could kill you, pushing one into making stupid decisions when no decision may be necessary.
And most important of all, we have to want to be there and nowhere else. When this becomes a necessity rather that a fluke, it helps us mentally to go through the tough moments we will encounter, simply because we are where we should be.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

I'm in complete agreement that these were not really the best built boats.  There's lots of fiberglass and resin, but boy do they ever have their weak points.  With a bit of modification and a lot of mess, you can have one helluva solid boat.  Which is what I'm doing.  But out of the factory they were built with techniques of the era at best, and a lot of the work seems to have been done very slopilly, and now they're all 30 years old....  Anyone at all who wants to disagree can come over and see my boat all apart.

Re: Contessa 26: Cape Horn

Thanks SMH.  Sounds like we would have an interesting conversation over a table littered with rum glasses and scraps of paper showing stability and strength calculations.  Perhaps I am attributing more effect than I should to the weight aloft. 

What would be interesting would be to see the impact the weight aloft and below has on the roll moment of inertia, and ultimately some of the boat's comfort.  For those who wonder what I am talking about, try moving around your boat before the mast is stepped.  The roll period of the boat (that is, the rate at which it tries to return to level) is much faster than it is when the mast is stepped.

Here is a practical thought on 350 pounds of ballast:  These boats are weight sensitive (hard to believe on a 5500 pound boat but there it is.  Note the height of the cockpit sole above the waterline.  Add 350 pounds of lead, fill all the tanks and take on all the gear for the adventure and I am all but certain that the cockpit sole will be awash due to backflow from the cockpit drains.  Since I have not yet installed the watertight seals that have been discussed elsewhere, leakage at my engine panel would be a real problem.

(Hey Christian -- you recently loaded your boat like this -- was scupper backflow a problem?)

I believe Christian's point on preparation is on track.  Know oneself and the boat, and try everything before you leave. 

It seems to me that the trick with this adventure voyage is to not pretend that one is going to set a speed record doing it.  By following a stepping-stone path and sailing in fair weather this trip could be made with relative ease.  Much as it is tempting to head to sea for a 5,000 mile passage, when one is exhausted and sick and generally fed up, a calm anchorage, a dry bed, a warm meal and a good night's sleep can radically change one's outlook.  Daysailing may not get you from A to B quickly but it is likely to keep one safer and happier!

Also, I agree that these boat are far from perfect.  My soggy poopdeck is a good example.  All boats have their faults -- that is part of the appeal I think.  It gives one something about which to daydream.  If someone knows of a perfect boat let me know.