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my old farymann which starts beautifully and runs great is only as good as the tranny it is connected to. Sadly
I have to put tranny fluid in at an ever increasing rate to keep it full. I see a purple tint in the bilge and see a sheen when pumping out.
Can the seals be replaced without removal of the engine?
entec says the reason for the seals being bad is the water dripping from the leaky cockpit covers. Otherwise the engine and tran are good to go, just need to be removed for seal replacement. I wonder what the groop thinks?
Hmm, when my engine came out, ONE guy just lifted it up and out...so might be worth it to do - you could have someone help you...many guys work for beer, I discovered! ;-)
My engine was rebuilt, and I asked them to do everything else at the same time, but the young, angry kid who I now know worked on it (since fired) likely did not even check the tranny seals...(see my July 15 post under "Sad News for Rhiannon")
Leaky cockpit covers: get flat rubber washers for the bolts, and then buy cheap stick on foam sealing that comes in strips for doors, etc....but fridge gasket is the best...but I just used the black foam stuff until I could find time to go get fridge gasket stuff....
Good luck...it's kinda important to have gears...however, when engine does not run, I feel we should toss them into the water and laugh as they sink?! ;-)
I had fixed the leaks but the damage had already been done. The shaft coupling is just a lump of rust. I hope the thing can be repainted and put back in but the verdict will be made after it comes out.
"Shaft coupling is just a lump of rust" does not bode well for shaft coupling's longevity! ;-) Hopefully can be painted, but if not, a new one is hopefully all you will need, (she says while trying not to gasp)....becuase you do not want it cracking while you are trying to motor out of a current-infested marina! I always check the prices at Entec's website before talking to anyone, so that you can pretend you are not shocked when they tell you something the size of a "timbit" is going to cost $475.
Well I don't know what a timbit is but after speaking with my mechanic, entec and prp which is the NJ farymann distributor
I'm going to limp with my motor as is until this winter, haul out and pull it all out. If the motor is too big a ball of rust, then I will have to scurry around and find a replacement. If my mechanic judges the thing fit to go back in
we'll sandblast it replace the seals and go back in. At least I'll be able to replace the shaft log and stuffing box, and get the bilge painted. The people at both entec and prp say the motor is probably good, but can no longer get the cylinder liner or a water jacket for a rebuild. My mechanic says that the engines he has painted and put back in all seem to rust fast anyway. PRP says to just ospho everything. That doesn't seem to be very good long term solution, just less expensive now. Most of the time that is the most expensive in the long run. I just hate to get rid of a motor that starts so easy and runs so well, not to mention the $$$ for a new one.
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