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The Contessa Corner → Wanted → Farymann K34
If you're going to replace your Farymann or you've just removed it to go with an outboard I'd be interested in purchasing it for parts to rebuild mine. ( I won't be keeping Angelina long enough to make the Yanmar upgrade worthwhile.) Also, if you have had hands-on experience overhauling a Farymann, do you have any advice? Thanks, Roland
Hi Roland,
I had my K30 which is from 1976 partially re-built in June and is working flawlessly since then. What exactly is wrong with yours? Give me all the details. Perhaps I can help. Shannon (ex-Rhiannon) is also a great source of info as she had the same model Farymann as yours.
Jose
Thanks Jose. Shannon related her rebuild experience to me some time ago and it eventually cost her right around $5K. At the time she said if she know how much it was going to cost she would have gone the route of an outboard. But I'm getting too old for the gymnastics required to operate the outboard I have now. I knew the Farymann was not working when I bought her thinking that I'd eventually get around to figuring out what the problem was. Turns out the cylinder is stuck at bottom dead center. Impossible to budge her with the handcrank. I've pulled the head and there is much corrosion visible in the head itself (rockers, springs, etc). I've checked the Entec website and learned that Farymann Diesel no longer manufactures the cylinder head for this engine but for approximately $1200 USD I can make a conversion with new piston, cylinder and cylinder head for their 18W (bore increases from 75 to 82mm). I'm going to pull the engine out this week - the port engine bed has to be reglassed anyway as the forward portion has separated from the hull. Seems to me I read in a previous post in this forum that someone else had a similar experience. Once I complete the disassembly I'll know what other parts need replacement (Do ya 'spose there'll be a few ;o). If the price of new parts gets too close to $2K then I quess I'll have some extra room for stowage. If I can find another used K34 for parts perhaps I'll be able to salvage what I've got. I'm fairly certain that salt water got into the engine (oil was milky) so she may be beyond hope. We'll see.
Hi Roland,
Don't make any rash decisions until you take out the head, sleeve, piston, etc. and see how bad things really are. I too had a similar experience when I bought Tessa in February. While she turned when started, she couldn't really build up enough compression to ignite the diesel in her cylinder. I thought that the piston rings were stuck in their grooves until the mechanic I hired pulled the sleeve, head, piston and we then discovered that rust build-up on the cylinder head, valves, spring had affected the seating of the valves to decrease compression. As well, rust had formed on the walls of the cylinder wall itself causing pitting which also affects compression. To make a long and sordid story short, the mechanic(s) pretty much told me to re-engine to the tune of CDN$ 10,000 or do a partial re-build at CDN$3,500.00 as Farymann parts can be very expensive. Dejected, I asked my brother in law who's a millwright and he just chuckled (the nerve!) and made a couple of phone calls before he had to fly to Texas for a job for two weeks. He had one of his suppliers in Hamilton, ON lightly hone the cylinder and clean up the cylinder head and valves of the rust and re-seat the valves and he told me to get new piston rings as they were probably 30 years old and they had to come from Germany. Are you ready for this? The honing and reconditioning of the cylinder head and valves as well as re-seating them came to a whopping CDN$ 40.00 (forty) and the piston ring from Germany came in at CDN $ 190.00 (that's one hundred and ninety) which at CDN$ 230.00 pales to whatever the experts wanted to take from me. On July 1 my brother in law took all the elements and put it all back together himself and with a cheshire cat grin, he turned the key. She fired on the first try and she's been rockin' and rollin' ever since without fail. If you can find a reliable supplier to first of all clean off the rust and do what I just chronicled here and have them do precise measurements of the cylinder wall just to see if you're well within tolerances which I'm gonna bet that you are then go the same route before doing anything else. Talk to Dave at EntecWest who mirrored what my brother in law said and did which save me the cost of re-powering which shouldn't really happen very often especially on fresh water boats. Once you get her going, make sure you put a diesel fuel additive every time you fill the tank which replaces the sulfur that they take out on today's diesel. We need that sulfur for lubrication in our older engines. These engines should outlast our boats.
Good luck and let me know how you fare.
Jose
Thanks for the comprehensive and informative reply Jose. I will most certainly follow your advice. Will post results.
The Contessa Corner → Wanted → Farymann K34
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