1 (edited by Virago Deb 2006-11-06 17:01:35)

Topic: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

OK gang, I need either a picture or 1000 words - your choice....

I want to put my Origo stove on gimbals.  I actually had in hand a set of Origo gimbals but rejected them because it would take too much farkling about with the stove alcove to make it all fit well.  I'm guessing that the Origo stove is rather smaller than the origial F10 item.  Anyhoo, as the F10 gimbal mounts are still firmly mounted in my stove space I've decided to take a run at fabricating (or "faking" as I prefer to call my actions) a set of gimbals that will adapt my Origo stove to the F10 gimbal mounts.  I have designed the swing arms and even come up with mounting pieces that will fit in the half-round cups in the F10 mounts but I am only guessing at how it all went together in the first place.  It would save me a fair bit of head scratching if I could get a picture or description of what these mounts look like for real.  If anyone out there has already hung an Origo stove in the original F10 gimbal mounts on a Contessa, feel free to elighten me.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

Really simple, methinks. If the "bottom" portion of the mounts, the cups are still there, the F10 just had rods that size that rested in the cups, and a brass bar goes over the top and clamps down on the stove's "bars," how tightly you screw the screws dictates how easily it swings. Have a couple of pictures, but can take more specific ones this weekend. My e-mail address is in the ad for my boat in the marketplace section, drop me a note and I'll reply with photos attached.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

Thanks Steve.  I'd appreciate the effort.  I take it the round bits of bar that sat in the cups were round, not oval?  The reason I ask is that I have scrounged up some fittings that I think will do for the pivots, but when they are seated in the cups and the brass clamps applied over top, there is not much of the circular pivot part captured by the top clamp.  I am afraid the top of the circle will pull out from under the clamp when the wight of the stove is swinging on it.  How much of the pivot bar is captured under the clamp in the original set up?  I'll look for your email address tomorrow and pass along mine.  Failing that, I'll post my email address in my profile for a few days and you can find mine there.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

One thing about the Origio gimbals is that they allow the stove to be lifted pulled forward and rested on the bottom of the alcove,while still secured.This allows the lid to swing back far enough to extract the canister for filling,something to consider in the design.The factory design is hard to improve on,but the instructions are something else.They arent difficult to install.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

I agree with Bill, I had the Origo with gimbals, and you need to be able to open the entire lid regularly, so you don't want the stove sliding out of gimblas that may not quite fit?!
If old ones are hard to get out, I just bought myself an impact drive (great deal at Home Depot, couldn't resist) it will remove bolts of any kind, with no damage or effort or stripping of bolt heads, etc!  Then you can mount proper gimbals.

“You get a boat for only one reason, because you want one.  If you’re worried about being practical, forget boats.”

6 (edited by Virago Deb 2006-11-10 09:24:46)

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

Hi All,

The installation of the gimbals didn't seem difficult, nor would be the removal of the old ones, but what baffled me is that the alcove is about five inches wider than the stove with gimbals, so how to mount the Origo gimbals in the alcove neatly and still have them reach the stove?  I would like to maintain the fire and heat resistance of the metal lined alcove and don't want to introduce wood.  Perhaps photos of an Origo stove mounted on Origo gimbals would help.  In the mean time, I'll keep trying with my home-built rig.  Or I'll just stick to the velcro (ha!) and skip the gimbals all together...

One of the possible solutions to the "how to get at the cannisters" puzzle is to put a shelf directly below the stove, tight enough to the stove that it won't swing when the board is in, but the stove will swing with the board out.  In other words, instead of taking the stove to a solid work surface for filling, I'm taking the solid work surface to the stove.  I believe the stove will be positioned such that there will be clearance enough behind it to lift the lid.  Also, the pivot pieces I've salvaged are from an old depth sounder mount and an old Loran mount and are threaded.  Once the rig is assembled I can tighten down the pivots to hold the stove steady, then loosen them up when it's time to swing (!).  Between these two precautions I think it should be ok.  But that's only in theory, the reality could be different.  As in my original post above, I'm not certain that I have the pivots in the alcove mounts properly.

Thanks for the input, and keep it coming if you have more to say.  As anyone who works alone will tell you, sometimes it's good just to bounce ideas off someone else's head to see if they sound the same.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

Even though I built all this stuff into the boat,already I forget what the bits looklike.There is a picture in one of the boat adds on the forum,but it is a bit small.I think it has two mounting holes in the bottom of the fixed part.These could likely be attached to a pair of nicelly rounded 2by2s and these screwed to the bottom of the alcove.The stove should take up most of that space.I hear origio has a website.They were about $135. in Victoria,which felt like a whack but they are so clever and they bolt right up so that it only took about 0 seconds to decide to go that route.Good luck.

Re: need help with Force 10 stove gimbals

Sorry,if you don't want wood use stainless or aluminium angle prettied up with an angle grinder.I get mine at the recycling center or scrap yard.