Topic: Singlehanding

Well Branwyn made it out in the Pacific after 9 years on the hard (I only had her 1 1/2 of those).
A great entrance it was after leaving the channel out of Mission Bay and facing the 6 to 8 foot swell/waves of a Low to the North, I was faced with the problem of putting up sails with the wind 90 degrees to the waves and no self steering. I did not want to put her broadside to these waves and then leave the cockpit as it was my first try at doing this alone. So here it is , I am looking for input for the novice singlehander in windy or wavy conditions. Where do I run my lines, what kind of self steering, how to put up sail in a blow without being hove to etc.
Thanks all, this forum really helped a lot.
Peter

Re: Singlehanding

Re: Singlehanding

Thanks Bill, I am going to try that , that sounds like it will work.

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Bill's got it spot on, you can motor all over the place with your main up and no issues. 2 methods for the jib, (as it appears from your website you don't have roller furling), both methods assuming your jib halyard is led to the cockpit -
1. If it's not too sloppy, hank on the jib, attach sheets and leave it flaked on deck before leaving the slip, or mooring. Then just hoist the jib when ready. This should work in pretty much all but the sloppiest conditions you would go leisurely sailing in.
2. If it's REALLY sloppy, you can hank on the jib, tie the sheets on, flake the jib on the deck, do a couple loose folds and put the sailbag over it, leading the halyard and sheets out of the mouth of the sailbag - kinda like you would prep a spinnaker. Cinch the sailbag somewhat loosely and clove hitch the sailbag cinch ties to a stanchion, the pulpit, or the lifelines. The sailbag will keep the sail from unflaking itself and going all over the place, and provided you've cinched the bag loosely enough, when you hoist the jib it should come out of the bag with relatively little resistance. This of course leaves the sailbag fluttering in the breeze, so best if you also attach a small line to the bottom of the bag to tie that end of to the lifelines to keep things as neat as possible while sailing. As my JJT 26 doesn't have roller furling, when I'm cruising, I just flake the sail and put it in the sailbag still hanked on, so it's at the ready but still protected from the saltwater and UV.

Re: Singlehanding

Also, don't forget to install jack lines as you will need to go to the bow or somewhere on deck to untangle something on particularly windy situations.  Trust me, it will happen!  More importantly, don't go singlehanding without a harness on.  Safety first!  Congratulations on your launch!  As we're all pretty much out of commission for the next 5  months or so, do post a hell of a lot of pics just to keep our collective spirits up.

Cheers,

José

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Great guys thanks, I got the jacklines and harness, but need to lead the jibsheet aft. I'll be going out next week and will take the camera.
Peter

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I am in the process of buying a jack lines system for my boat before the spring "project" season.  I was wondering where one can get 2  steel hook/latch for the bow (placed on top of forward cabin) of the boat that you clip the jack line into.  I saw one in one of Shannon's ole boat pics I have but can not find one in any marine catalog or on-line.  Also, finding a Jack line is not that easy, outside of West Marine (try to give my business to others).  Any help would be great. ~jklee

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I bought my jack line material at a large outdoor store with a large mountain climbing department. The flat hollow braided stuff. Make sure it is the high strength stuff and not the normal light weight material used for tie-downs. 4000N rings a bell. It needs to be replaced every few years due to UV.

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Thanks for the alternative to the expensive sailing jacklines.   So, how did you tie it onto the boat, via cheats or a clip system? What lenght you use?  I found one through REI climbing dept for 30 cent per foot. ~jklee

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Hey!!  Way to go Peter!!  My first time out, it took me two hours to get the sails totally up and all set properly...heh heh!!  Just take your time and think it all out.  Plus, I take the sail cover off at the dock, get the halyard all set up on the mainsail, and have it all ready to hoist in a hurry, if need be.  And, if you are nervous, put a reef in at the dock, much easier there.  you can always get the sail up if you head her dead into the wind and let ALL the lines go loose....

Jacklines: for simple and quick: Yes, you can get the flat webbing that climbers use, I got 6,000 lb breaking strength, for cheap, at an outdoor climbing store.  If no eyes to tie onto, tie onto the cleats!!!  That is what I will do on my "new' boat.....my old boat had "Pad Eyes" installed....a good idea, and something I may do in the future, but I am going to be of the same ilk wtih my new boat: Nothing goes through the deck unless it is thought about for a long, long while!

“You get a boat for only one reason, because you want one.  If you’re worried about being practical, forget boats.”

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In my search for climbing webbing, I have found 1" webbing to be 4000 lb strenght (@32 cent/ foot)  while 2" wide webbing at 6,000lb strenght, the recommended strenght for a jackline.  I am surprised that I have not found a 6,000 lb webbing that is 1" wide that is not from a sailing store and called a jacklines, but have time to hunt it down;-)  Thanks for the U-bolt idea.  ~jklee

Re: Singlehanding

14 (edited by Bill NH 2007-02-09 12:20:30)

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John,

Despite the recommendation for 4500 lb breaking strength, I'd stick with 1" 4000 lb rated webbing vs the 2" 6000 lb rating.  The 2" webbing will be very cumbersome in a tether clip, and if it's not easy you won't use it. 

I'm also a certified mountain guide and we use 1" tubular webbing to build anchors that people regularly fall vertically onto with resultant large loads.  The loads you'll see in jacklines should be significantly less in the vast majority of cases.  In addition, the jackline system is only as strong as your attachment points.  Will they hold more than 4000 lbs?  (would you be able to lift your boat on two of them?)  Maybe yes for the bow cleats, maybe no for smaller padeyes...

Remember that many more people go overboard because they lose their balance and stumble, than in big dramatic knockdowns or pitchpoles.  This is mostly what you're trying to prevent.  As long as you buy the good tubular webbing rather than the flat sailtie stuff and remember that nylon breaks down over time from UV exposure and replace it regularly (depending on how many days you're out sailing each year) you'll be fine.

Bill

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I bought these from an Ebay store close to an inch wide, I dont know the breaking strength but I will try it when the water warms up a little, they come with clips.
Item number 200076250185    on Ebay.

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been looking at those myself....please relay once you've tested and are confident in them, or not, as the case may be!

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Going waaaayyyy back up to the top of this pile of entries, there was some mention of a Tiller Tamer.  There is a product made here in Canada called the Voyager tiller pilot (I think...I'm sure about the Voyager part, but not the rest of it) Anyhoo, I have one on Virago, and I used it a lot on my previous boat too.  The Voyager product is a cam lock type device made of stainless steel and brass.  It mounts on top of the tiller and a line passes through it to either side of the cockpit (I have the ends shackled to the pad eyes for the main sheet blocks), the cam lock grips the line and holds the tiller in place. When it is released, the line passes freely through the clamp and does not hamper tiller movement at all. What I like about this simple invention is that it is easy to release the line completely from the locking device and just as easy to put it back in again - simply lift the cam jaw, which is open on one side, and slip the rope out, or open it and slip the rope in again.  This is handy when you want to be able to lift the tiller while sailing, or clear the rig out of the cockpit to make room for people.  And I like that it is all metal construction instead of plastic.  Here in Canada you can order them through Brewer Brothers chandlery in Hamilton Ont.,  I dare say one could be sent to Peter (or ordering details)  if he's interested.

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It sounds like a nice piece of hardware.  I sure would like to see a picture of it if possible.  I've also been playing around with the idea of a tiller tamer or something like it for Lua.  At the present, I've been doing the low-tech thing with just a small cleat on the tiller. Thanks.

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Hi Jim,

Unfortunately they are devilishly hard to find - they are made in small numbers by a tiny company (one guy in his machine shop methinks).  Brewer's doesn't have a website, and I'm not at home right now to look it up.  Check your local supplier if you're in Canada - but not West Marine because they're American wearing Canadian boxer sorts - I doubt they'd carry a rare Canadian product.  If I can source them out I'll let you know, but you'd likely have as much luck on your own.  You might try a small outfitter in Thornbury Ont., Gyles Sails and Service - I think that's who ended up ordering mine in for me several years ago.  Take a crack at info@gylessails.com to contact them.  I know for sure that Brewer's has a 1-800 number if you ask directory assistance.  Also try HMP (Holland Marine Products), also a large Canadian supplier (wholesaler and retailer).

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Update on the Voyager tiller lock:  I contacted Holland Marine Products myself and inquired about the item; Sadly it is no longer made.  When I unwrap Virago in the spring I'll get someone to take some detailed digital photos of it and post them here.  I'll include some measurements too.  Hopefully someone with a machine shop will find some inspiration.  In the mean time, I'm glad I peeled mine off Imp when I sold her...