Topic: To Do List

Well, we all have those famous to do lists and perhaps it is not of any interest to anyone but I thought I would share mine since I am taking the boat down to Kingston and will not be able to run home in a jiffy if I get into trouble like I can on the Ottawa.  And I like to think Morava is in good shape.  This list does not even include some of the stuff that I dream about like a new engine, a new gel coat, a new awl grip deck etc...  Also, I am not even sure I can do some of the stuff - I read a lot about you guys "rebeding" the shrouds etc... not sure what that is but I know I have to do it given I do have leaks but will admit that I am intimidated by it.  And you will notice, some of the "stuff" I have to do is fairly novice stuff at that.

Cheers.

Morava
Ongoing To Do list

Mast, Sails and Rigging:
1.    Inspect, clean and fold sails.
2.    Organize parts and material in sail bags - get ready for Spring.
3.    Re-paint mast spreaders black.
4.    Replace anchor light on mast.
5.    Check and replace wiring on mast for VHF.
6.    Check antenna - see if it needs to be replaced.
7.    Paint scrapes on mast on at least clean - take off stickers.
8.    Inspect boom.
9.    Install and purchase line for taking down the jib singlehanded.
10.    Rebed shroud supports on deck.
11.    Replace/resew mainsail cover - brand new from Genco $250.00.

Engine and Batteries:
12.    Ensure batteries are charged up and in good working condition.
13.    Fix, battery cables, replace if necessary.
14.    Change oil - find oil leak.
15.    Find gas leak - see if gas lines are leaking.
16.    Change fuel filter (Fram C-11 91 A).
17.    Learn to bleed fuel lines.
18.    Add gasket to fuel/oil pump on bracket.
19.    Get extra bracket made.
20.    Tighten stuffing box nut.
21.    Perhaps get new 3 propeller blade and install (I doubt it though).
22.    Have extra oil on board 15 W 40.
23.    Clean battery compartments.
24.    Replace and fix engine lights for cockpit.

Lines:
25.    Purchase new sheets for foresails.
26.    Ensure all dock lines are in good order - purchase new ones as needed.
27.    Replace rope for life buoy.

Cockpit and Hatches:
28.    Clean scuppers with plumber’s snake.
29.    Purchase locks for lockers.
30.    Purchase (perhaps) boom tent - brand new awning from Genco $325.00.
31.    Purchase (perhaps) dodger - brand new from Genco $1,195.00 minus 15% (limited).
32.    Replace and make cabin hatchway  - plastic and wood with window.
33.    Create/build mosquito screen for cabin hatchway.
34.    Fix cowl vents and tubing.
35.    Fix seal and perhaps replace forehatch.
36.    Purchase mosquito screen for forehatch.
37.    Purchase windsock for forehatch.
38.    Fix mushroom vent.
39.    Buy screens for port and starboard middle portholes.
40.    Perhaps build and install cockpit wood/teak sole.
41.    Fix bilge pump bladder.

Deck:
42.    Purchase lifelines if necessary or remove old plastic coating that is frayed.
43.    Screws for lifeline stanchions.
44.    Rebed lifeline stanchions.
45.    Add plastic rings to all lifeline stanchions.
46.    Sand all teak and protect with teak oil or determine which product works the best - this must be done  before launch - means complete sanding of rudder etc...
47.    Make sure electrical to deck outlet works.

Cabin:
48.    Fix leaky galley sink water pump.
49.    Fix and secure ice box cover.
50.    Figure out how to install table.
51.    Build rack for utensils.
52.    Build rack for binoculars.
53.    Inspect and make sure head works.
54.    Replace electrical plug over ice box.
55.    Install hanging locker rod.
56.    Purchase alcohol stove.
   
Misc:
57.    Purchase new Canadian flag.
58.    Purchase new American courtesy flag.
59.    Fix and test BBQ.
60.    Get new winter cover or repair old one with new lines.
61.    Purchase (perhaps) storage box for car.

Ivan Ross "Morava" #266

Re: To Do List

Ivan Ross - if you're looking for a 3 bladed prop I've got a 3 blade, 11" DIA X 13" Pitch that came off my boat. It's kicking around somewhere.  I've got a 2 blader than I'm putting on.  It's for a 1" shaft, but whomever installed the engine on my boat made or bought a plastic spacer to fit the prop to the 7/8 shaft.

Re: To Do List

Impressive list! Lots of it looks pretty easy - lots of "Buy..." items.

Rebedding the chainplates (shrouds) is near the top of our list too. We're thinking tabbing them to the hull instead which will bring up all sorts of issues. When the time comes...

Good luck!

LaDonna & Rob

Check out our progress on 'Tess' at [url]http://contessa26.wordpress.com/[/url]

Re: To Do List

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If the memories are better than the dreams then it's all over.....
[url=http://www.contessa26moonshine.me.uk]www.contessa26moonshine.me.uk[/url]

Re: To Do List

Hi Stepan D -

Thanks very much for the offer.  I put the 3 balded prop down not fully appreciateing what it means.  I have read all the forums on this site that go through the merits of doing it etc...  But I must admit that I do not fully appreciate it.  I realize that it is not as simple as just putting on a new prop right - you have to make sure it fits the shaft and is compatible with the engine right?

My original thought was that Morava seems so underpowered right now that a 3 bladed prop might do the trick.

Interesting, how come you are staying with the two bladed prop?

Cheers.

IR

Ivan Ross "Morava" #266

Re: To Do List

You may also just need to change the pitch of the prop. When I bought my boat, it was underpowered. The pitch of the prop was too small for the engine/transmission/hull/prop diameter combination. But since the engine was also not worth saving, I installed a Yanmar 1GM10. Depending on the existing prop and the amount of change needed, a prop company may be able to change the pitch. (bend the blades)

Re: To Do List

seeadler,

Is there a formula for calculating the proper pitch for my two blader? Also how do I measure the pitch of my propeller as it is now?  My Tessa has a wicked prop walk to port when going astearn.  I've made do with lines around cleats before reverse actually kicks in but I'd rather have something like a Gori 3 bladed folding prop but that could cost a few K's.

José

Re: To Do List

The Propeller Handbook,Dave Gerr.If you resist goosing the throttle before the boat has stern way the walk will be very small.

Re: To Do List

Thanks for the Propeller Handbook, bilgeret.  I'm not sure what you mean by "goosing" the throttle.  In any case, the prop walk occurs at the slowest of speeds right from the moment when I shift to reverse from neutral.  Does that mean that I have too much pitch?

José

Re: To Do List

Re: To Do List

I have always had these full keeled boats and they all behave much the same way under power,but the small power and crowded aperature add a few quirks.When you first put the boat in gear tier is very turbulet water flowing over the hull and likely not much over the rudder so the propeller acts much like a sideways paddle wheel.More throttle exacerbates the situation.Some wind and current can make things impoible,especially with the cut away forfoot.Diameter is desirable in a propeller for a displacement hull as (I believe)you don't get the bite with hi pitch,low revulutions.I don't know if more pitch walks the boat sideways.Merry Christmas,Bilge

Re: To Do List

Oh also as it has:nt been mentioned ,two blade,less drag,three blade more efficency.I like the two blade.I would think the smalll motor,given the same reduction would have a better relationship of diameter to pitch so maybe I am not experiencing the same difficulties as others.It would be interesting to hear from those that have repowered if there has been a change in the low speed handling characteristics of thier boats.Maybe a three blade or less reduction would be desirable with more power.Is there someone out there who "knows".Bilge