1 (edited by rbporter 2006-07-10 15:00:30)

Topic: topside, bottom and deck restoration

My boat is a 1986 co26 #335 I bought in Nov. 04.  The green topside gelcoat is quite faded and shows print through. The decks are unpainted gelcoat that is dull and chaulky.
I have been tossing the idea around of having it Awlgripped or roll and tipping  with either a one or two part paint that I can possibly do and repair myself. From a distance with salt stains I think it is hard  to tell the difference. I had my local f/g person look at it and he suggested that I, or he, sand, wet sand then buff out the existing gelcoat. He thought that would get rid of the print through and bring back the color. It sure would save a mountain of $ and I would not be living with a boat that has an expensive virgin paint job I would not let a launch get near. The boat has the original double bootop.  From a cursory examination it looks as though it may have a barrier coat as there is a grey coating between the reen gelcoat and the thin layer of red bottom paint. There are solidly two schools on thought on this coating thing. I will sail in New England, four months a year, if I'm lucky, and the boat will be dry and coverd the rest of the year. There are no signs damage or osmosis. My f/g man says barrier coating is a marketing success in that everyone feels they need it. You  have heard the other story. I was so convinced I needed it I went ahead and bought the Interprotect coating. If I do barrier coat either I will have the bottom  blasted with some hard but not to hard substance or chemically strip and sand.  All kinds of opinions on this too...
Then there are my decks. I have kept water off them since I took delivery and will do so until I pull all the hardware, rebed and reinstall with backing plates as I can. I hope to sand, wet sand, and buff the decks as well. Painting the decks is something I don't want to get into.
This is my signature project. The CO26 is a boat I have wanted more then 25 years after owning a basket case wood Folkboat . 
Please share your thoughts and or experience.
Bob, Kim & Pedro, s/v Equinox

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

This is my first post on this site, although i read it regularly and my boat, Mustard Seed, is on the site.
I can swear to the fact that no matter how much sanding, buffing, waxing you do to a colored gel coat, once it starts to chalk, there is no fix that will last longer than a couple months.  Mustard Seed was yellow, I say was because I got tired of the chalky look and painted it this year.  Now I'll have to update my picture on this site!  Maybe you'll have better results on an '86 as opposed to my '72.
I considered AwlGrip (rolling and tipping, because there was no way I could afford to have it done), but the stuff is so expensive when you add up all the converters and solvents you need.  I ended up using Interlux Perfection, it's a 2 part epoxy paint.  It's super glossy, and I gotta say, it rivals the look of awlgrip, maybe better.  I did the whole thing myself, the steps were easy, but it's alot of labor.  I did two coats of primer and two coats of paint.  I rolled and tipped each coat, and the results were better than I expected.  But it's true what they say, it's all in the prep.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

I'm just getting ready to spray pre kote and off white brightside for the interior, and I'm planning to spray 2 part primer and off white Perfection for the decks and cabin sides, and roll grey with grit for the non skid.  Depending on how this goes, and how good I get with predicting the paint and reducing techniques, I'll likely spray the hull as well.     We'll see.  As I get to it I'll post pictures......

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

I reduced the pre-kote about 25% to get it to flow out better, but I didn't have to reduce the Perfection at all...but I didn't spray either.  I ended up having to do alot of sanding with the primer, but it turned out extremly smooth.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

My boat was looking quite tough when I took her on.  A friend who polishes boats professionally (along with repairing, refitting, painting etc.) recommended a polish by an outfit called Rolite.  The polish is generally used on aircraft.  Application is with a 7" angle buffer and a sheepskin pad.  It is a commercial product and not easily sourced.  Of course you want the fibreglass polish and not the aluminum formulation.

My boat shone right up.  Send me an e-Mail and I will send you a picture of the mirror finish.  My point is that your boat's topside finish may look like it is done, but it might shine up quite well if properly polished.  It seems to me that you have nothing to lose on a giving your boat a good polish.  Certainly less costly than Awlgrip.

Good luck!

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Christopher...

Thanks for the Rolite tip.  I've ordered some easily online.  I've already cleaned up Varuna's chaulky decks with a green Scotchbrite pad and Soft Scrub, but now the surface is just dull, although wax gives it a very slight gloss.  Tried automotive rubbing compound too, but the Scotchbrite worked better.  I'll let you know how the Rolite works...

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Christopher -
Wow, that Rolite is great stuff!  I don't understand how it can produce such fantastic results with so little effort.  Thanks for the tip.
Sam

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

RBPorter,

I painted my topsides (74 JJT) last spring, it was a lot more work than anticipated, and for me not as easy as they made it sound. I used Interlux. The result is ok, not spectacular, although from a distance it looks nice. Rolled and tipped it after failed spray attempts. Some pictures on the website.
I will try this Rolite stuff for my deck, I was thinking Rhinoliner if it doesnt work....
Good Luck!

9 (edited by rbporter 2006-08-16 12:38:21)

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Peter SC,
You painted your topsides with which Interlux?
Yesterday I  received my 2lb can of Rolite. Experimented on two areas of about 2 square feet each,, topsides @ waterline and the transom. Results were excellent.... Based on this limited test,  painting will be many years off.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Peter SC - did you use two part paint (perfection or interthane plus)??  Why did the spray attempt fail?  I'm going to spray the hull and decks of my 74.  Just wondering if you've got any "not written on the can" tips, cause I've come up with about 20 of them....

I just finished painting the inside of my boat, 1 coat of pre-kote ( 1 pack primer ) and 1.5 coats of off white Brightside.   (the .5 is where the liner repair was showing thru).  Check out the pictures at yahoo.....

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Yes topside with Interlux, I just went through the trash, but I tossed the can. It was a one part urethane and prekote primer.
The spraying failed because I ended up with lots of little pockmarks that showed up after a while, must have been my prep i guess?? Also had  problems keeping constant pressure on the HVLP sprayer. after sanding once again The roll on and then tip off with a dry brush got rid of these .
I am looking forward to trying the rolite!
Good luck guys.

12

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

For those who used Rolite in the past, how does the gelcoat look a year later?  Did it hold it's shine?  Did you use anything after the polish (wax or sealer)?

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

The rolite products are actually a system comprised of a polish and a wax.  I have used different waxes on my boat -- all suffer after a year of exposure. 

I have used Rolite for several years.  In the spring the boat needs a good bath as usual.  The topsides do not look particularly good but as one sets to work with the polish one realizes that it is just the wax that has gone chaulky.  The topsides themselves are still bright.  This season I am considering starting with a stronger detergent wash to strip off the old wax before I begin the polishing work.  This will reduce the amount of wax that I must buff off and buff back on again.  Regardless, I found that with the aid of a bit of scaffolding I can buff and put on three coats of wax on in a day.  At three coats the finish is deep and lustrous.  I will post a picture I took last season at the end of the waxing.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Just saw your Gallery post, Christopher.  Fantastic!!!  I just looked at Rolite's (Spec Distribution Inc.) site (yuck!) but it didn't post any prices and I was just confused with all the different products not knowing which one(s) to use.  Could you guide this forum to how you got that hull to shine like that?  Also, Spec is a little slow in giving me prices and info so if you could expedite that part and just tell us which product to use, how much it costs and how to apply it would be just amazing.  No detail is too small by the way and thanks for sharing that pic.  Can't wait for your response.

José

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

My dark green hull suffers from some "print thru". I am not sure if I should bother with the various waxes, polishes, etc. when I may have to wind up painting... How much of problem will I be creating with the various waxes if I wind up needing a paint job?  Anyone out there have a problem with "print thru" (visible weave pattern thru gelcoat) ??

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

nothing that you can do about it save for sand it all smooth and paint her.  common in older, dark hulled boats (contessas included....)  as far as waxing before painting - when you are going to paint you'll sand and sand and clean and clean and clean and dewax and dewax and dewax again and again and wipe some more times.  so a coat or two of wax now before a paint job next year won't really be much of an issue.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

rbporter,

If you plan to paint next year, it will be easier for you if you avoid silicon wax. When you will be ready to paint,
dewax first and do the sanding after, this way you will make sure that the sanding will not engrave the wax on the hull. The sanding will be 75 to 80% of the job.

Spring is on the corner smile

I will be in MA this summer, i will participate to the Melonseed Solstice Regatta. I will stay in Plymouth and Hyannis. It will be my fourth year at the race, you live in a beautiful place. I plan to sail before and after the race. I hope to go to: Wellfleet Harbor, Pleasant bay, Independence Pt, Hyannis Harbor and Barnstable Harbor.

I will be there with my Melonssed, it's a small catboat and you could see what it's look like at the melonseed.com site.

regards

Marc

Contessa 26 #158
Sun Wave
Montreal QC

20

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Yes spring is just around the corner and if only the weather would cooperate!  One of the projects I've got going this spring is a total paint job, bottom, topsides and deck.  For the topsides and deck I have been looking at all the different paint options out there (Sterling, Alwgrip, Brightsides, Easypoxy).  I've used a number of them over the years on various boats and found that each has its pro's and con's.  Working on a strict budget as I do, I was trying to decide what to use on Lua.  An old boatbuilding friend suggested I use a paint made by Sherwin Williams their Industrial/Marine Alkynol Enamal.  He says he has used it for years and it works very well at a fraction of the cost ($50 per gallon US).  I've got the boat all prepped and primed and am just waiting for the weather to clear so I can start laying it on.  I'll keep you all posted as to how it turns out.  I've seen a number of his boats and they always look great.  Their finish is not as glossy but I prefer a more matted finish on my boats anyways.  Wish me luck! Jim R.

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Good day!

My experience with Rolite is that you can use it quite sparingly on our Contessa's.  I have never used more than 1/3 of a can of the polish, nor a that much wax for that matter.  Your investment will last more than one season.  Also, visit your local marine store -- it may not be cheaper but I saw Rolite products recently at The Boathouse here in Montreal.  I checked the Westmarine catalogue but did not see Rolite.  That does not always mean that it is not there.

It seems to me that it is the big buffer that does the work on this job.  For those of you who are going to try Rolite, I use a 7" variable speed angle polisher with a big sheepskin pad.  My yacht club has a few of the machines available to members because this method of polishing (whether using Rolite or not) has been so successful.  Perhaps you can save a few dollars by asking at your club.  My first season doing this I was able to do the topsides in half a day and I am faster now.  A key element in the process is to use the Zappy pad cleaner often to get the old wax and other oxidized gelcoat out of the pad.  The Zappy cleaner is a gadget that fits on the top of a bucket and you can get one through the same distributor as the polish.

Some have asked "How?".  Elbow grease has always worked well for me.  I start by giving my boat a bath!  I start on the decks and work down -- I use stiff brushes on the non-skid and rags everwhere else.  I use the standard deck cleaner (Starbright lately) and I rub every surface.  I find that this removes a lot of the oxidation from the deck -- they look and feel a lot better when I am done.  I also prepare the teak for oiling at this stage.  (Aside:  to keep this thread on topic I have posted about teak elsewhere).  Then I clean the topsides with the intention of removing old wax, dirt, grit and grime.  I have not settled on a cleaner for the topsides yet -- I want to find a balance between something that takes off old wax but is not hard on the underlying gelcoat.  Again I use rags and I rub hard.  Rinse WELL!

Next, wet the sheepskin pad and spin off the water.  Your Zappy Cleanner is a good tool for this.  Use a rag and apply a bit of polish to the boat.  I may also spritz with a few drops of water if I feel it is needed for extra lubrication.  The proportions of water and polish is something best learned by trial and error.  Then polish.  You will see shiny boat and it will be obvious, particualrly on a coloured hull, if you need to polish more.  Follow the instructions -- small patches.  Rolite is not unlike most polishes and contains a solvent that evaporates quickly.  Keep the can covered and apply in small areas -- you need wet polish for buffing. 

Also, be careful not to overbuff.  Do what is necessary and no more.  Polish is an abrasive process and you are using it to take off oxidized gelcoat.  The more gelcoat you polish off (literally!) the less you have on the boat!  As I noted elsewhere, my experience with Rolite has been that very little work is required on the gelcoat in subsequent seasons -- the apparent oxidation is actually old wax.

Once completed this stage you should be looking at a shiny boat.  Take a dry rag and wipe the whole boat down to remove any residual polish etc.  You will probably find a few spots to polish again and that is part of the reason for doing this overall rub-down.

Wax is the easy part.  I apply the wax like I would on a car.  I use a damp cloth and rub wax onto an area of the topsides -- I go larger at this point and apply wax to armspan sections.  My goal is to evenly distribute the wax over the surface if I can -- not too thin and not too thick either.  The wax dries quickly and must be completely dry before polishing.  Then take a dry rag and rub off all the dry wax.  The residual is the shiny surface.  Waxing is a fast process and if you work at it you can easily work your way around the boat in less than two hours.  I use three coats for a nice shine.  My last step is again a quick wipe with a clean rag over the whole boat.

Happy Spring!

Christopher

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

For those with print-through, how bad is it?  My organge Contessa shows some print-through in the gelcoat.  I can see it from 12" but from 5' all I see is orange gelcoat.

Good luck to the painters over the next few weeks.  It is a challenging job but very rewarding.  Please share pictures of your successes!  Reading about painting always inpsires me to consider a change -- dark green would be a smashing colour for my Contessa.

Christopher

24 (edited by John Lee 2007-04-07 16:09:32)

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration

Okay, I am at a lost on where you can find this Rolite stuff (do not use polish as they go after the county on the search engines).  I have tried Googling it every which way and failed to the Nth degree. I tried every on-line sailboat website and nothing there.  I do not have a marine store where my boat is and closest one is 1+ hours away and it is 2 hours north to get to my boat from my place.  So, if someone would be so nice and direct me in the direction to find it and order it, I really be graceful.  ~jklee

Re: topside, bottom and deck restoration