Interior Lockers and Storage

Oh!  You are blessed!  What fun you are going to have reworking your Contessa.

I recently constructed cabinets in the V-Berth that are a great success and there are photos in the Gallery.  However, to pursue the solution below they would have to come out and I am reluctant to deconstruct my good work.  However it is VERY tempting.

I did some doodles recently and think that I could rework the Contessa interior to make a more functional boat.  While it is possible to seat four around the current saloon table, it is at best awkward.  I prefer to think of my boat as a two-person boat with the occasional larger group for parties.  Given this assumption, the goal is to install a dinette in the main cabin, offset to Starboard.  You will need to measure again of course but this was what I was considering: 

Relocate the hanging locker one bulkhead forward, cutting into one 'head' of the V-Berth.

On your 1974 and my 1976 the icebox is on the starboard side.  Remove the icebox and relocate same in the former hanging locker.

You could consider a cut-out in the bulkhead between the port-side galley and the new icebox.  You will need a pillar between these two areas of the boat because it is part of the mast support.  You may also require additional reinforcing to support the cut-out since this would be in the main bulkhead.  Alternatively, fit a low fridge or even a pull-out drawer as an alternative to the current top-opening solution.  Then one could have a small sink and/or additional stowage in the former hanging locker.

Remove the old icebox completely and replace with seat which faces both aft and to port.  The design of the seat will be important as where your head and shoulders contact the head-liner will be critical to comfort.

You will need to cut into the quarterberth on the starboard side so that you can place your legs.  Things will still be tight and when using the dinette one's legs will most likely rest partly on the centre aisle and partly in the area of the stowage beneath the former quarterberth.

You have a choice now -- you could fit a fixed seat facing forward and to Port opposite the new seat -- the table will fit between the two seats.  To do so, while respecting where your head will fit against the aft end of the cabin, will create a large dead space where your legs would have been in the quarterberth.  This would be a great place to stow sails, and other large bulky items.

Alternatively, you could construct a seat from stiff foam.  It would probably be 12" thick as a minimum to get stability.  This would be installed with velcro.  The attraction of this foam bulwark is that it can be removed making possible the use of the starboard quarterberth.

Finally, were one to arrange the new table top so that it could fit securely between the seats, one will have effectively shifted the starboard berth forward.  Using fold-outs or pull-outs one could then turn the starboard berth into a good-sized double berth.

I suppose you could undertake the same project on the port side but it would require visiting the location of through-hulls and sea-cocks.

I would love some discussion on this subject -- has anyone else tried something like this?  Can it be done?  Would it be useful?  Would it kill the resale value of the boat?  And how annoying will it be to whack my head on the dogs of my nice bronze portlights when seated in the new forward seat?

Part of the repowering with  a 13.5 Beta, is a new prop. The old prop., a 12x12 two blade with the 10hp Bukh, clears the top of the aperture by only 3/8" of an inch. Way to close by all those who seem to know. Suggestions have included an 11" three blade, a 11" large area two blade, of course the 11" three blade Maxi ($2300) and last but not least opening up the aperture an inch and using a 12" prop. Yes, I'm soliciting even more suggestions and opinions to make this whole project even more complicated then it already is...   
Then there is the panel installation location. The old panel was inside the cabin. The Beta guy says the panel should be in the cockpit where I have ready access to the starter, kill switch and guages. Reasonable! But then there is that chance of a boarding wave and the new many dollar panel instantly becoming junk. I thought about having the panel in the cabin with either alarms or warning lights installed somewhere in the cockpit. At least this way I'd be alerted to an impending engine meltdown.
Fuel tank and filter(s) - The 10 gallon steel tank has yet to be removed. Yet to be removed if it can be removed.
It is a very tight fit. Not sure what we'll find. If replacement is in the cards will it be an off-self, steel, alum., plastic tank or a custom tank? Does anyone know? It's under the starboard cockpit settee.
I went to a diesel owners one day class this past Sat. I was  about half way through this when I started wondering if I could get by with an outboard. TO LATE NOW! These are complicated little beasts. Part of keeping them happy is to have plenty of clean dry fuel. Read multiple fuel filters. It's probably not enough to have just the engine fuel filter but necessary to have a remote "primary " filter first in line. Another three hundred bucks.

Regarding a rigid boom vang, why not I suppose.  I would prefer that to a traveller.  If you are brave I might consider one which works in compression instead of tension, such as that on a 29er.  I think it would be a clean installation.  On my boat I would go with a loose-footed main, leaving the boom track free for such a vang.

On repowering, I would favour the 11" prop with a larger blade area.  However, without the calculations it is difficult to say which would be best.  In general, larger diameter is more efficient, but the region shadowed by the keel is so large that it may not make much difference.  I do know that some people have had success improving performance under power by switching to three bladed props, although they sacrifice sailing performance by doing so.  I assume that those of us with two-bladed props are sufficiently attentive that we know when it is in the up-and-down position.  With my little Petter diesel, the only thing I might try would be an 11" two bladed prop with a larger area to improve performance.  But the cost!  Maybe for this season try what you have and see how it goes.

For the panel, consider the solution used on the Jeremy Rogers boats which locates the panel just inside the companionway, in sight but better protected from the elements.  I will post a photo in the gallery of one such installation.

I agree wholeheartedly with Stephan's post -- don't cut below the waterline unless you must.  I also believe that he is on the right track with the smaller tank.  I replaced mine with a 5.5 gallon Vetus tank which fit like a glove in the locker.  It freed up tonnes of space in the locker and I can now carry two portable 5 gallon jugs if I need additional fuel.  That being said, I used less than 2.5 gallons in my last season on the water.  If I did not post a pic already then I will do so now.