Topic: Double braid splicing Question

Hello Everyone,

I've recently purchased a splicing kit made by Samson for double braid rope.
I've been practicing but just can't get it.  I've followed the directions extremely carefully and its really quite easy until I get to the part where I have to reinsert the Core through the Cover from Point T to Point Z.  Once the Fid gets to that part of the cover that already has a core inside it (from Point X to Point Z), the Fid jams and gets really tight and............

It simply will not go through even with extreme force.

On all the videos online, the rigger just pushes it though like nothing.  I'm certain that I am using a 3/8" line and a 3/8" fid.

The rope was a piece of line that I got when I bought the boat.  I don't know what brand it is and it probably isn't Samson.
I'm wondering if there might be some slight specification differences between rope brands and maybe there wouldn't be a problem if I was trying to splice Samson Rope. 

I'm hoping maybe there is someone who has had this same problem when they were trying to teach themselves how to splice double braid and can give me some advice.

Best wishes to all and Happy Holidays,

Brian

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Re: Double braid splicing Question

Hey Brian,
Put all the odds on your side by using new rope. I have found that some of the silkyness dries out over time making it much more difficult to slide, moreso if it has been dunked in salt water. On older rope I eventually got through with a little soap, vice grip, and elbow grease. Just don't give up; the end result is worth the effort. The brand of rope shouldn't be an issue.Good luck.

...)))) May the wind fill your sails and the sun shine in your face cool

Re: Double braid splicing Question

Thanks for the advice Fessalo,

I'm going to try it again with some brand new Samson double braid. 

B

Re: Double braid splicing Question

Hello Everyone,

Just wanted you to know what happened with the big splicing mystery.  Turns out, the fairly new-looking double-braid rope that came with the boat was the problem.  A fid simply would not go through it to make a class 1 eye splice. 

Once I gave up trying to practice on the that stuff and started trying to splice the brand new Samson double braid (which I was pretty nervous doing since I still hadn't made one splice successfully yet), it was pretty easy to do. 

Bottom line, I guess, is that all double-braid is not created equal even thought it looks remarkably similar.

Brian

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Re: Double braid splicing Question

I just safety pinned it until I can get the lock stitches in place.  I'm still trying to figure out what I should be using for that.  The Samson video said to use "braided nylon twine" but none of the places that sell rigging stuff know anything about that.  Does anyone know?

B

Re: Double braid splicing Question

Re: Double braid splicing Question

some heavy test fishing line like spider wire is braided and might be suitable
John

.                               ,,,,,
                               (o o)
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Re: Double braid splicing Question

I use Marlow whipping twine, available, as they say, at chandlers everywhere  in many colours.

Marlow also sells a very sticky tape that is good for binding the end of lines.

But -- top secret --  a lot of sailmakers use standard, ordinary dental floss. It works fine. Is very strong and looks like the real thing!

Re: Double braid splicing Question

After talking to the rigger at Defender, I decided to go ahead and lock stitch all the eye splices on my new running rigging with ordinary pre-waxed 5-ply flat construction polyester twine that I had in my sail repair kit and purchased from Sailrite #100035).  The results came out very nice and I'm pleased with it.  I like the fact that the stitches lay flat and are less likely to be exposed to abrasion and the white color makes the lock stitching almost invisible on the new double-braid rope. 

This rigger reminded me that the lock stitches only hold the splice in place when not under load and that the strength of the material used for the stitches is not crucial.

B

10 (edited by Virago Deb 2014-04-17 15:52:15)

Re: Double braid splicing Question

I've spliced a fair bit of braid for work and fun, most of it used.  Fortunately I have and old, old set of splicing instructions published by Samson when it first came out.  In those instructions are two methods of splicing - one for new rope and one for used rope and I can tell you, using the method for new rope on used rope will drive you nuts!  If you don't have the guide for used rope, let me know and I can photocopy it and mail it out, or mail it to someone (like Adrian maybe...) who had the technical knowhow to upload it.  Heck, maybe it's already out there in cyberspace.   Furthur to this conversation, I've found that the newest types of braid do absolutely require the "new rope" technique as they seem to be really slippery and splices in new rope using the "used rope" technique will slip a bit.  The used rope method on used rope works well and is easy to do.  Also, I freely admit to cheating and I use a fid a bit smaller than that specified for the diameter of the rope I'm using just because it is easier to shove it through. To get the slightly-too-fat line into the smaller fid, I use wraps of electrical tape to form a pointy end on the rope that can get shoved into the open end of the fid and taped in place (I use lots of tape!)  I've also been know to skip the fid altogether and fake it with a long bit of wood or aluminum (hmmm, maybe a big knitting needle...) and some electrical tape to hold it all together (tape to create a smooth, tapered fit onto your fake fid that will feed into the cover/core neatly).  Ages ago, commercially sold fids weren't aluminum tubes, they were bent wire that you could make yourself out of a coat hanger.