• Registered: 2014-03-31
  • Posts: 15

Topic: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

Hi All.

I just purchased a Contessa 26 that has the inboard engine removed.

I'd like to mount an aux. outboard motor but want to avoid installing it to the transom.

I saw a nifty looking mount by Spartan that gave me the idea of attaching a mounting bracket to the afterdeck. It looked very neat and the bracket can be removed when not in use.

The afterdeck of the Contessa might be just long enough to accommodate the bracket.

I included a pic to show an example.

Any ideas if something like this is available to the general public or if there are problems associated with using it on a Contessa?

Btw, I'm planning on using a smaller 2 stroke motor 2-5 hp while trying to keep it under 100 lbs. I'm thinking an outboard motor bracket that is adjustable and retractable would get the motor out of the water while under sail.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks, David

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  • Registered: 2014-03-31
  • Posts: 15

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

Hi All,

Just an update -

I'm still investigating a deck mounted motor mount for the Contessa 26.

The route I will most likely go is to have a local marine welder fabricate a bracket that can be bolted to the afterdeck and also fashion a backing plate for under the deck while he's at it.

That leads to the next issue which is finding a good adjustable and retractable mounting bracket to attach to the above arrangement.

Garelick seems like the main supplier but I'm open to ideas (and model numbers) for something that's worked for you.

Thanks again,

David

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

It depends what you are hoping to achieve.   You will be lucky to get more than a couple of knots in smooth water and an offset small outboard + a long keel is fairly marginal for manouvering in marinas unless you have a crew member squatting on the stern deck manning the outboard controls and steering it.   You will need to remove it and stow it inboard in heavy weather or it will get drowned.    You then have all the issues with stowing petrol aboard.     

How 'removed' was the old inboard?  If the shaft and sterngear are still there consider reinstalling an inboard.  If on the other hand, everything has been ripped out and the shaft log etc. glassed up, it is a far bigger job.   Do look at costings closely.

4 Reply by mokshaSF (edited by mokshaSF 2014-04-02 11:02:05)

  • Registered: 2014-03-31
  • Posts: 15

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

I'm hoping to achieve getting in and out of the marina and getting out of the way if the wind fails.

I read on this forum (http://contessa26.wordpress.com/2007/01/15/44/ ) that a 2.5 hp outboard is adequate and a local sailing instructor familiar with Contessas told me that 5 hp would push the boat at hull speed.

As far as steering, I've been planning to lock the tiller of the outboard and steer with the main tiller.

The inboard is still a viable option since the shaft etc is still in place.

The engine that was removed is a Yanmar 1gm10. The head was shot but the short block was said to be OK.

At this moment, time is of the essence as I relocate to another marina in 10 days. I'm thinking I can install an outboard more quickly than putting a head on my short block and reinstalling it all back in the boat being very unfamiliar with the setup. If I were to go this route, I'd want to take my time.

So that's it. Feel free to pick apart my logic please!

5 Reply by Ian Malcolm (edited by Ian Malcolm 2014-04-02 16:34:36)

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

  • Registered: 2014-03-31
  • Posts: 15

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

Thanks for your sobering and well thought out reply, Ian.

Repairing the 1gm10 could be the most cost effective way to go if its just the head and other parts you mentioned.

The loose prop shaft knocking around is a scary thought and I don't want to put the boat on the hard now if I can get it back together where she sits.

The pressure of a move doesn't help the thinking process either so I'll try to work something out with the marina to just keep things status quo. The seller really wants to see me move it out of there so perhaps there's some friction with the marina.

7 Reply by Ian Malcolm (edited by Ian Malcolm 2014-04-04 03:00:12)

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

  • Registered: 2014-03-31
  • Posts: 15

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

Hi Ian,

The engine, according to the PO, cranked but wouldn't turn over. That bodes well for the cylinder in that it wasn't seized. I haven't tried to turn it since but will do so.

The head was sent to a shop who pronounced it dead on arrival thanks to corrosion, clogging, etc so it was tossed out.

I have no experience with diesel engines so your advice is especially valuable. I have Yanmar manuals but haven't spent much time with them yet.

I'd be fixing it up in my backyard and then if I can get it going, reinstall it. It would be easier reinstalling the head while its all out of the engine compartment anyway.

I hear this problem with the head is fairly common. You mentioned some possible causes. Another reason I'm told is diesels like to be run for long periods and more often than not, they are used only for short stints in and out of a marina. I would definitely be interested in ways to safeguard against having a problem-ridden engine.

Right now, the PO is apprising the marina of the situation and hopefully the slip will just transfer over to me.

Thanks again

9 Reply by Ian Malcolm (edited by Ian Malcolm 2014-04-04 15:24:54)

  • Registered: 2006-09-20
  • Posts: 175

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

I presume he meant cranked but didn't fire.  That usually happens when the corrosion gets bad enough that the exhaust valve is failing to seat cleanly, but can also be a symptom of low compression from other causes or air in the fuel system or injector or injection pump problems.   If it starts in hot weather but not cold, the compression is marginal.

"The head was sent to a shop who pronounced it dead on arrival thanks to corrosion, clogging, etc so it was tossed out."

Uh-Oh.  I hope the previous owner stripped the rocker assembly, injector and pre-combustion chamber from the head and kept them before sending it off.  Otherwise its all extra costs.   The next thing you need to do is have a good look at the cylinder bore with a good light and an inspection mirror and the piston right down at BDC.  If you've got a friend who rebuilds any sort of engines, get them to take a look.  If its got more than very light traces of flash rust (that just wipes off) it will probably need honing + new rings or even boring and a new over-size piston.  That's a job for a specialist.

Not running the engine much wont kill the head.  However sailing downwind in heavy weather without some way of stopping the exhaust flooding will.  As I am not a purist, I frequently find it more convenient to run the engine rather than stuff a foam rubber ball on the end of a cord up the exhaust outlet in the transom to keep the waves out.

As my marina is fairly deep with pontoons on piles, I am able to run the engine in gear at full throttle in the slip without the wash causing any problems for anyone.   If I haven't given the engine a good run recently I try to run it up to around 80% for half an hour continuous every month or two. That is long enough I can be sure everything reaches full operating temperature, it helps dry out any condensation in the oil and does a lot to control cylinder wall glazing.  A good run at longer intervals is far more beneficial than short runs more frequently.

If you are in winter freeze territory, winterize properly and leave the engine at TDC with the exhaust and cooling hose disconnected from the injection elbow and its interior sprayed with anti-corrosion oil and seal with tape and plastic with a fresh non-corrosive dessicant sachet stuffed up it.  The air intake also wants sealing + a dessicant sachet.

Treat the injection elbow as a wear part.  It tends to develop pinholes  where the injected water hits the inner tube.   Inspect carefully annually.

  • From: Victoria B.C.
  • Registered: 2006-03-11
  • Posts: 171

Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount

Here's the lowdown on the transom mounted outboard.  4HP Yamaha.-4kt cruise, 5 kt wide open.2/3 lite per hour at cruise. Fuel is outside the watertight envelope. Nice that I can walk to a fuel station. In a wicked short chop the engine can pull out of the water.Going faster will help or relax and wait a few minutes for the chop to go down. The boat is maneuverable if a little  awkward.It does not get drowned when waves come over the stern or when the  boat is so far over water is pouring over the coming.  Look how far over we are in my friends video, water not close to engine.It is a challenge to build and mount an outboard with out it looking bad but it can be done.Three things are absent now , interior noise , diesel smell and extra weight.They are cheap and they may keep  you sailing.In short they work pretty well and they still put them on late model folk boats , because they are lighter?