Why an unsinkable Contessa??? I would not want to be left afloat in a boat totally awash in cold seawater, any seawater. If it does float, as it presumably would if the above alterations were made, then it would be an unstable sea anchor.
I would take my chances in an inflatable raft with an EPIRB.

77

(26 replies, posted in Technical)

My dark green hull suffers from some "print thru". I am not sure if I should bother with the various waxes, polishes, etc. when I may have to wind up painting... How much of problem will I be creating with the various waxes if I wind up needing a paint job?  Anyone out there have a problem with "print thru" (visible weave pattern thru gelcoat) ??

78

(17 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It seems everything I have read has been about deck repair from below. Why not cut from the top?
Cut down thru the f/g to the core, remove the core, replace the core and glass and epoxy from the top not from below and above your head in very ight places. Not to mention the cutting out of the interior. Cover the repaired deck with one of the several non-sid deck materials that are glued on (see Practical Sailor). I have not done this but in theory it seems a much better approach.

I am planning of removing all my deck hardware so can either paint or compound the deck and rebed all. I would like to install backing plates for as much of the harware as possible. I removed the base of the lifline stanchion and heard the nuts slide down the bilge between the hull and the liner. I am not sure how I am going to reattach the the stanchion bases never mind reinstall with a backing plate. I can not reach the underside of the deck under the stanchion bases. Please...share you experience and or thoughts....thanx

80

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have been thinking about a wood stove for the co26  even before I bought it. I had  wood Eastwood Ho 24 with a Shipmate Skippy. It too was installed with the same orientation as yours. This was  not a prboblem however as I only used it while on the hook or at the mooring.   The wood tove adds another whole dimension to comfart to late season sailing here in New England.
What kind of stove do you have? Let us know.
Also what kind of a deck plate and smoke stack head do you have?
RBPORTER

81

(3 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Andrew,
I am a US inquiry, not entry... I haven't even put my boat in the water since I bought it two years ago. Mostly a fantasy. If I wake some morning and decide I have had enough with my business and sell it, well then I may ppursue this. A  passage, perhaps a qualifying passage, to Bermuda in two to three years is in the plans though.
I was the former owner of EIRA which was Val Howells Follkboat in the 1960 OSTAR.
I love this stuff.

Bob Porter

Rather then a plastice turnbuckkle tube use what I use on my shroud and backstay turnbuckles, white PVC pipe. This is  avaialable at any Home Depot, Lowes hardware store etc. It is very cheap, it won't suffocate the ss and acts as a roller of sort.

There use to be a Marieholm Folkboat dealer in Annapolis, Nora Atkins. I don't think she or hers are around any longer though. She often listed Contessas so I suspect there are surveyors in the area who have surveyed these.
Two years ago I had my boat surveyed in Solomons Island, MD by a local surveyor. In hindsight a waste of money but at the time it was reassuring. He missed so very much... I would feel quite confident (or confident enough for my level of chance taking) to survey another Contessa myself.
Go on to the BOAT US website. I believe there is info. for finding a surveyor.

84

(26 replies, posted in Technical)

Peter SC,
You painted your topsides with which Interlux?
Yesterday I  received my 2lb can of Rolite. Experimented on two areas of about 2 square feet each,, topsides @ waterline and the transom. Results were excellent.... Based on this limited test,  painting will be many years off.

What about having a duplicate stemhead with tang refabricated out of bronze. A female mold could easily (easily for someone who has done this sort of thing before) be made for a bronze poring. The result I trust would be like the one piece stemheads on the Cape Dorys. My stemhead is in pretty good shape except for the oblong shape of the holes for the forestay. I plan on taking it off, rebedding it at least (I'm thinking as I'm going on here) and possibly taking  it to a foundry to get some idea on the above.

Terrance...
My boat is ZJT03350186. As I understand it she was hull #335 built in Jan. 1986. If the the fixerupper in San Diego is numbered 3231284 seemingly this would indicate that the rate of production was pretty slow, 12 boats in 13 months. What do we collectively know about JJT? How about some of you co owners up on the lake doing a little research for us?

87

(5 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I had the same problem with my Cape Dory Typhoon.
An article in Practicle Sailor tested several waxes, lubricants, etc. for same problem. Their conclusion was that simply using Turtle Wax auto polish (or any  similar polish, I would guess) on the on the mast  luff gave results. This was also the most cost effective. The results on my Typhoon were excellent.
I will wax my contessa luff before stepping the mast next season (I have yet to launch my co26).

88

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The MSR stove is gasoline. I think a gas camp stove in a boat, possibly a pitching boat , is a bad idea. I am not familiar with the MSR. I did most of my backpacking before the MSR with a Svea 123. The Svea is a gas bomb waiting to happen in the best of conditions.  I have thrown it out of my tent into the stove more then once.
How about one of the many solid fuel or diesel wall mounted stoves with a chimney? No good for cooking but should do the heating. A  swing single burner butane stove for cooking would compliment the wall mounted stove. When the cooking is done, away it is put.

stefan-d
Thanx for your response..
There must be many co26 owners with either this problem or problem soon to be.
The hole on my forestay tang is oblong. This is not good on a boat that I feel has not got  a lot of use, hence my suspect of the compromised strenght.
VARUNA, as I have observed, has a ss plate with a welded tang as you suggest. It is screwed/bolted  down using the existing  four holes. It looks very substantial. This as you note may be the path to fools paradise if what is anchoring these bolts may not be much different then what was anchoring the bolts of the ceiling panels of the "Big Dig" tunnel (Boston thing, US tax payers $'s). Without having seen it I wonder if this area can be filled with an epoxy mix. With enough surface area this should spread out the load  to every surface  of the hull and deck it touchs.

The forestay tang on my cast aluminum stemhead just doesn't look up to carrying the loads  a roller furling headsail  will exert on it. Being alumminum, or some alloy thereof, it shows corrosion from the galvanic action with ss forestay turnbuckle. The alum. is not smooth with a dull alum. oxide, but dull and chaulky/porous from this corrosion. I have seen one other co26 where the sockets for the bow rail  tubes where so corroded to make them nearly worthless. The boat has been on the trailer since I have owned it and I don't feel comfortable rigging and sailing it with things as they.  This is not the only reason she is not in the water this year but  this is one of the items to be checked off by launch day.
Aprreciate any thoughts...

91

(26 replies, posted in Technical)

My boat is a 1986 co26 #335 I bought in Nov. 04.  The green topside gelcoat is quite faded and shows print through. The decks are unpainted gelcoat that is dull and chaulky.
I have been tossing the idea around of having it Awlgripped or roll and tipping  with either a one or two part paint that I can possibly do and repair myself. From a distance with salt stains I think it is hard  to tell the difference. I had my local f/g person look at it and he suggested that I, or he, sand, wet sand then buff out the existing gelcoat. He thought that would get rid of the print through and bring back the color. It sure would save a mountain of $ and I would not be living with a boat that has an expensive virgin paint job I would not let a launch get near. The boat has the original double bootop.  From a cursory examination it looks as though it may have a barrier coat as there is a grey coating between the reen gelcoat and the thin layer of red bottom paint. There are solidly two schools on thought on this coating thing. I will sail in New England, four months a year, if I'm lucky, and the boat will be dry and coverd the rest of the year. There are no signs damage or osmosis. My f/g man says barrier coating is a marketing success in that everyone feels they need it. You  have heard the other story. I was so convinced I needed it I went ahead and bought the Interprotect coating. If I do barrier coat either I will have the bottom  blasted with some hard but not to hard substance or chemically strip and sand.  All kinds of opinions on this too...
Then there are my decks. I have kept water off them since I took delivery and will do so until I pull all the hardware, rebed and reinstall with backing plates as I can. I hope to sand, wet sand, and buff the decks as well. Painting the decks is something I don't want to get into.
This is my signature project. The CO26 is a boat I have wanted more then 25 years after owning a basket case wood Folkboat . 
Please share your thoughts and or experience.
Bob, Kim & Pedro, s/v Equinox

92

(14 replies, posted in Technical)

Hello again Sam...
Does your topping lift run down the inside of the mast to a hole in the mast then to the cleat or does it run down the outside of the mast to the cleat? If it runs down the inside then put a wire down lift exit  hole above the cleat and try to retrieve it where you would like the t. lift to exit at the mast step. Then a fix the wire to the lift line and pull down inside to the step and out. If the topping lift is on the outside  from the mast head then you can go aloft on Tania's steps and drop a light line with a lead weigth down inside the mast and try to retrieve with the wire you put in the exit hole at the step. Good luck. Make sure you have someone on deck on belay.
My CD Typhoon has the t. lift down the outside of the mast to a mast cleat. At the mooring the light boom hangs from the t. lift with a clip at the booms end clipped to the backstay so it doesn't swing. The co26's boom is to heavy to hang on the lift. A ss cable clamped or better yet nicropressed to the backstay I think iwould be the way to go.
I don't release my lift until the main is hauled otherwise the boom would drop in to the cockpit.  The tradeoff is that I often  sail off with a pretty ugly main.
Your headsails: You could have a bolt rope sewn into the sails luff for the furling extrusion otherwise you are going to put alot of strain on the jib halyard block that it probaly was not designed for.
Take all of this for what it may worth to you. My Typhoon went in the water three days ago and as you know my CO26 has yet to see brine since I have owned it, going on three years.
Bob of Bob & Kim, Ipswich

PS Thanx again...

93

(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

stefan-d,
Truth be known the idea of the ss plate with a welded tang  bolted to the stemhead cast where the now ground down tang was, using the four existing holes, was not my idea. Last week I had the privledge to go sailing on Varuna which is now in Southern Maine. Especially after Tania's collision with the tanker in the Mederterranean in which the forestay was broken I was anxious to see the condition of Varuna's stemhead. The above described is what Varuna now has. I don't know who made this repair and what his/her experience was in bolting/screwing this to the cast stem.
I am not going to rig my boat until I make the same or similar modification.

94

(10 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My 1986 has a 10hp Buhk with three wires coming out from behind the flywheel and attaching to a terminal located on the side of the cylinder block. The surveyor could not find an alternator. He didn't know what to look for!! I t does indeed have one. My boat was sailed from a slip in the Chesapeak using only shorepower to keep the lead juiced. The previous owner probaly couldn't find the alt. either. I will be hanging from a mooring so I will dispense with the shorepower and need to get my alt. or some alt. up and running. Will mine work? I dunno. I am under some understanding, or perhaps misunderstanding, that when a alternator is spinning without an attached regualtor and battery, it some how cooks the little bits in the alternator. Does anyone know?? An aftermarket alt. will not possibly fit in the usual spots but may fit so it can run of the prop staft. I would like to know more about this option.

95

(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

After a cursory examination of my 1986 co26 I have discovered that there are none, or few if any, backing plates for anything bolted on, ie: stanchions, genoa track, cleats, stoppers, winches, etc. etc. My very ambitious plans are to make ss plates for as many of these as I can reach. Any thoughts??
What about the cast aluminum stemhead?? I have a Cape Dory Typhoon that has a beautiful cast bronze stemhead.  Cape Dory did not take short cuts here. My co has a rather corroded aluminum cast that looks to me strenght compromised at  the forestay. I do believe this is the weakest link in the entire rig. What happens if the forestay parts from the stemhead beating in a fresh breeze...? My thought is to have a ss plate w/ a tang welded for the stay. This could be bolted using the existing bolt/screw holes on the stemhead. Does any one know what the four stemhead bolts/screws screw in to? Do they just thread into a block of f/g?

96

(18 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

Adrian:
Have I  missed something? It was my understanding that his site was going down 6/1/06. I am very pleased to see that it hasn't and may have a future.  A resource for me and my co26 is very valued.
Thank you... bob, co26 #335

97

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Jose
My  1986 co26#335 has the same problem. I bought the boat two years ago and haven't put it in the water yet. Summer 2007 is the anticipted splashdown date. I was told by another co26 owner in Beverly, MA, who had the same problem, to take it to a propeller shop for machinig. I have removed all the hardware and plan on taking in to Haskell& Hall propellers shop in Salem, MA during the coming year for repairs. They will either press in a bronze or delrin bushing.??
There must be a lot of co26 owners that have or have had this problem. Don't be shy, let us know how you dealt whith your P&G's.... Bob