1 Topic by rbunn

(0 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Does anybody have a tried-and-true method of deploying a 50-something sq ft storm jib hanked-on on a boat that normally runs with a roller-furler?

My question really boils down to:

Can I get away with using a beefed up jib halyard, which isn't necessary with the roller furler?

If not, are there any suggestions about A) stay diameter, and B) Method of attachment to the mast?

Any really simple, proven methods?

I can easily envision going forward and hooking up to a very substantial u-bolt thru the foredeck, then tensioning it with one of those stay-tensioning folding things. I have not figured out why I would not be able to store this against the mast, the end rolled and stowed on the cabin top

I'm not going to deploy this unless I am concerned about serious weather (well, for practice I guess sometimes), so the integrity of the attachment to the mast, and the stay size are pretty important.

Any suggestions backed up with experience, either first or second hand?

Thanks,

Richard Bunn
s/v Martha Daggett

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2 Reply by rbunn

(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

So, I don't mean to be tacky here, definitely not my desire. And I will be installing valves on all the below-water-line hull penetrations, for sure. Probably on the exhaust line as well.

But . . . what good are cocks on the cockpit drains when they are installed below the cockpit floor? If the cockpit floor is not watertight, cockpit water floods the bilge, not attractive. So I assume your floor is screwed down pretty tight. Wouldn't it take me some time to get that thing opened up so you can access the cockpit drain thru-hull cocks? If so, that location seems to me like no cocks at all, since you can't close them in a hurry anyway, and in a hurry will be the only way you will want to close them if your vessel is filling up with water.

So, if you choose to effectively not put cocks on those two (2) hull penetrations, what criteria do you use to pick which ones you do put cocks on? Just the ones you can get to? Why are they more vulnerable than the ones you can't get to?

Just seems to be a little disconnect here, that's all. Just asking.

I appreciate all the comments. I have two other smaller boats with transom drains, they work fine - a little water in, a little water out, no worries.

rb

Go to forum: Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades

3 Reply by rbunn

(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I don't see how there is room to put a seacock on the cockpit drains, the way they are now, nor in any configuration where they would cross. I suggested heading out the centerline of the transom specifically because heeling is going to have the least effect there. There is barely 3-inches between the cockpit floor and the HWL assuming the HWL was put on the vessel correctly.

Will having the small cockpit drains exiting the centerline of the transom cure the taking-on-water-when-heeling issue?

I couldn't sleep nights, or relax days for that matter, without access and options on a penetration below the water line. Right now there is neither.

How do other CO26's install the cockpit drains for big water? I don't know about you folks but a cockpit full of water is a big deal to me.

Right now the boat is not a boat for lots of other reasons. at least not one I'd like to have to depend on. Hence the concerns re the cockpit drains and transom holes. But laughter is good for the immune system, so I'm glad to help folks stay healthy.

Richard Bunn
"Martha Daggett"

Go to forum: Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades

4 Topic by rbunn

(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I guess the common wisdom is that the "standard" tiny cockpit drains on the CO26 are pretty poor, I agree. Mine drop well down into the deep-bilge area, below the drive-shaft, cross over to the other side, and exit thru a thru-hull that has no seacock on it. I don't like that, especially since if anything went wrong, and I had presence of mind enough to figure it out, I'd have to remove the cockpit floor to even plug it. Bummer.

Right now there is a thru-transom exhaust fitting, and the thru-hull for the electric bilge pump on the transom. That's two (2). I want to run the existing cockpit drains almost directly aft from their present location (in the aft corners of the cockpit, in a little drain depression) almost straight back and toward the centerline of the boat, exiting just above the high-waterline mark on the hull. That would be a drop of about 3-inches, not much. A small amount of water would still stay in the cockpit when the boat was heeled, but not much, and the centerline is the place most likely to not be submerged under normal operation.

Then I want to install two (2) more 1-1/2" cockpit drains exiting the cockpit 3-inches and 6-inches respectively off the cockpit floor and run them aft thru the transom. The thinking being that the tiny useless drains can get the last 3-inches of water out, but if I have a cockpit full of water the 1-1/2-inch drains should pick up the load. So, when I'm done I'll have the exhaust thru-hull, the electric bilge-pump thru-hull, two 1/2" thru-hulls on the centerline below the gudgeon attachment, and close to centerline two 1-1/2" holes for the other two cockpit drains, that's six (6).

How does this sound? Sounds like a lot of holes in the transom, I know. But running cockpit drains out the side of the hull doesn't seem to great, considering the angles-of-lean that I've seen in the pics. I've not sailed this boat yet, just got it last year and am getting it ready to go sailing.

The 3-inches of freeboard thing does really complicate getting water out of the cockpit doesn't it.

Any comments would be most appreciated. To complicate matters I am planning on installing a Cape Horn windvane on the boat.

I searched the posts and didn't see anything right on my question, so forgive me if this is an old subject.

Richard Bunn
"Martha Daggett"
Tulsa, Oklahoma, USA

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5 Topic by rbunn

(4 replies, posted in Cruising)

I am getting the Martha Daggett ready for some salt-water work, and am totally perplexed by what to do for cooking. I want to leave the starboard area midships clear for a nav table, so both the tiny sink and whatever I find to cook with goes on the port side.

Any suggestions? I saw the kerosene stove/oven combo post. I've heard various things about most of the fuels and am totally confused. I'd prefer to not have LP gas on the boat, but I've used it in other venues with no problems.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated. I'd like something gimbaled if possible, and not to career-shortening. Turn-down is important, not much else except safety.

Thanks,

Richard Bunn

Go to forum: Cruising

6 Topic by rbunn

(4 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

1)Is a "License" the only doucment that exists that shows ownership of a Canadian Vessel by a Canadian?

2)Do liens show up on a "License"?

3)How does one determine "Clear Title" for a Canadian Pleasure Craft?

Thanks, and thanks for the reply to the previous "Hull Number" question.

Richard Bunn

Go to forum: General Questions/Comments

7 Topic by rbunn

(16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Is it possible to have an older Contessa 26 (1973 I think) with no hull number and no vehicle identification number?

rbunn@rlbunn.com

Richard Bunn

Go to forum: General Questions/Comments

8 Topic by rbunn

(0 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I am pretty much committed to purchasing a C26 that is about 1200 miles from where it will be languishing (between adventures I hope!). I will be purchasing a trailer at some point, I'd like to do it pretty soon so I don't have to sell something significant to get the little beauty home.

Does anybody have any suggestions as to who makes a really good trailer that I can ramp-launch the C26 from? Ramp-launch is important, these boats seem far too capable to be locked into inland lakes, at least the inland lakes in Oklahoma. I'm hoping for salt water voyages, I've just about maxed out my P-19 in salt water, just too small living quarters for extended trips, for me at least.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

Richard Bunn
Tulsa, OK, USA

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