Marc
I will be working on my c0_26 later this week, I will take a look at the plate and report back.
John
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The Contessa Corner → Posts by john_co26
Marc
I will be working on my c0_26 later this week, I will take a look at the plate and report back.
John
Thanks for the replies everyone.
John I will check the thread that you mentioned. The decision gets a little harder/urgent for a couple of reasons.
1) I was out on my last sail for the year today, leaning my elbow against the mainsail at the boom. The boat bounces over a wave and my elbow puts a 6 inch rip in the main.
2) I received a followup email from Lee sails, the quote has dropped to 1000$.
Time to get off the fence.
John
Hello all
I will be buying a new mainsail this winter for my co 26. A direct replacement, no loose foot and no full main but I am planning on having 3 reef points sewn in. I received a quote from Lee sails for just under 1100$(for 2 reef points not 3 and heavy weight cloth). This is a fall special only, I suspect it will rise to about 1300$ by time time the boat show arrives.
So has anyone recently purchased a Lee sail? If so any thoughts on quality? I have read a thread here about one of the members buying a mail sail form the Kingston Sail Loft for approx 1800$. He seems to happy with his purchase. At a approx 500$ difference in purchase price I need to consider Lee over KSL, with that said I don't want to be penny wise pound foolish.
My general thought on the purchase is the original sail lasted 25plus years so what is 500$ over the life of the sail? With that said my boat is minimally equipped so that 500$ could be put to good use. i.e VHF radio, survival suit etc.
Excuse my ramblings mainly I am looking for input on the quality of the sails Lee is currently producing.
Thanks,
John
Virago
For what it is worth....
I have never pinned my mast. I drop it into the recess and set the stays/shrouds. You have me thinking I had better take a close look when I drop the mast this fall.
John
1979 co 26
stefan
Thanks for the reply, my boat was built in 1979. Just to confirm you are saying that the core material in the cabin roof, between the 2 layers of glass is 0.040 inches, would this be at the four corners of the cabin roof? I ask because I have a hatch installed behind the mast and I can see around that hatch that the core material is closer to 3/8's inch This would suggest that the core material is tapered towards the outside of the cabin roof. Or things changed from 75 to 79. No matter I will find out when I start drilling holes.
Thanks,
John
Hello all
I will be installing pad eyes onto the 4 corners of the cabin roof. Does anyone know how this core material is relative to these 4 corners? as well my impression is that the core is balsa wood can anyone confirm this?
Thanks,
John
Hello all
I was reading thru some old threads on this site and found the following post
I have a solution for that one Adrian. My local Marine store has sells stainless springs for less than two bucks each. I fitted these on just about every block on the boat -- now the blocks stay in place when there is no load on the sheet. No clatter, no banging, no deck damage. Probably the cheapest and most successful modification I have made to the boat.
Has anyone installed springs on their rigging blocks? I like the idea but can not envision how this would work? How to extend the blocks to accommodate the springs?
I will have to take a closer look next time I am on the boat
Any thoughts?
suzeh
Great article, the sentiment of it is something I have given some thought to. Let me play devils advocate for a moment. I sail primarily alone so if it is a choice between dragging along side the boat or treading water as the boat sails away I'll take dragging along side.
Not really the point of the article or yours I think. The point being, I think, that jack lines need to be installed as close to the centre line of the boat as possible used with a short tether. I will be running mine along both sides of the cabin deck, ending just forward of the hatch. I will also be tying a short line of webbing to the forward cleat to clip into. As to the cockpit I am planning on installing two u-bolts on the port side only, 2-3 inches above the floor. Port side only because the engine throttle prevents me from running a webbing line down both sides.
The tether will be a dual tether and as short as possible. I am thinking that it will be sewed from hollow webbing, using elastic to make it "stretchable" with a max length of 4 feet.
As well I will be developing the habit of strapping a blunt-ended knife to my body, for reason mentioned in the article. The idea of un-doing a quick release buckle when loaded up with my body weight seems doubtful to me.
All of the pieces I need to install will be here by the end of the week so I hope to have the jack lines installed before season end.
Any thoughts you, or others have on my approach would be welcome.
Thanks again for posting the article, it got me to thinking in more detail about my proposed setup.
John
bert
next time I head down to the boat I will bring a tape measure and report back(early this week)
John
Carolyn, seeadler
Thanks for the replies. At this point I think I will go with webbing I was going to order from sailrite but the outdoorspirit website looks promising. When u-bolts were installed did you install backing plates or just use washers? At this point I am considering installing ss or aluminum plates to help spread the load(on both the deck and under side). When I drill holes in the cabin roof/deck I am considering drilling the holes slightly over-sized and filling with epoxy. Then re-drill for the u-bolt. All in an attempt to prevent deck rot, any suggestions?
I had a great day of sailing today 20-25+ knots, warm wind and blue skies, very nice. Many people may be wishing for a warm summer, me? I prefer what we are getting, un-settled weather means more wind
Thanks,
John
The Contessa Corner → Posts by john_co26
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