Search options (Page 5 of 7)

From memory, and note I am set up for extreme heavy weather cruising rather than racing.

1. Mostly 12mm.  Jib halyard is Spectra (or maybe Dyneema, cant remember)

2.  12mm for the main sheet.  matte finish braid on braid.
 
3. For heavy weather, oversize jib sheets are *GOOD* so long as the blocks are sized to match.  I have 14mm.  A set of 10mm genoa sheets would be worth having for light winds and racing.

4. reefing lines: 6 mm 3 strand prestetched.   Horrible I know, but strong enough.

5. 4mm outhaul with a 4:1 purchace at the boom end, replaces the old lashing to make it adjustable!

6. 10mm braid on braid

7. 8 mm. Uphaul braided, downhaul 3 strand, both fairly nasty.  DUE FOR REPLACEMENT

8.  8 mm braid on braid (Sailspar continuous loop furling system)
9.   8 mm braid on braid (The topping lift MUST be able to take my weight in an emergency)
10.  6 mm polyester braid jacketed kevlar (I had a length spare) 2:1 rigged to advantage for contol lines on the main horse.  Genoa tracks dont have towed cars.

11. Permanent dock lines 14 mm 3 strand + snubbers.  Spare warps/Heavy Shore lines 2x 35 m long 14 mm octoplait nylon.  Working mooring lines: an assortment of 12 mm 3 strand lines, mostly nylon, some polypropylene (floating) + a length of 16mm octoplait nylon for nasty mooring buoys.
   

Replacement policy:  If excessively worn, and I can't end for end it again or if damaged or too stiff (usually the same thing)   I replace one rig or control line per year on average.   The main halyard currently has a darned in section of jacket about 1/4 the way up as the previous owner had let it chafe.  As this is not loaded even fully reefed, no problem!  I am generally fairly fussy about the condition of my lines compared to a lot of the other skippers I know.

Or take the exhaust hose off at the engine end (which you should do anyway to avoid condensation rusting your exhaust valves),  thread some hose down it into the waterlift muffler, and suck out as much water as possible with a pump or even a wet&dry vac then add antifreeze to suit your climate.   

If you are in reasonably temperate latitudes, you don't even need to drain the muffler if you have run antifreeze through the whole cooling system with the engine running.   

* Stick a bucket under the exhaust outlet at the transom, start  the engine with a hose to the intake in neat antifreeze (the enviro stuff *PLEASE*) and run till you see colour in the exhaust water. 

* Stop, dump the bucket then set up to recirculate from the bucket to the intake,  put enough antifreeze in the bucket and run again till the engine is good and warm.

* Change the oil and filter, run a couple more minutes to get clean oil into the oilways and bearings.

* Check the antifreeze concentration in the bucket with a hydrometer to be certain you have enough frost protection.

* Remove exhaust hose and water hose from injection elbow. As soon as the engine is cool, bag the engine's intake and exhaust with a freshly activated silica gel dessicant sachet in each and seal tightly.

* Isolate the battery and tape a note over the key switch so no idiot tries to start the engine!

N.B. change the impeller in the spring - if you are not planning to change the impeller, put an old one in for this procedure as it will take a set over the winter.

I think it *MAY* be far enough down the keel to be backed by the encapsulated ballast.  However the bond of the encapsulation to the hull at the front of the keel should be checked on the inside.   I think it will be below the sole just aft of the V berth.  If you have any built in tanks in the keel you may have a whole world of grief.

How old is your boat?  I hope she's one of the newer JJ Taylor ones with lead ballast as you really dont want water getting to encapsulated cast iron ballast as it rusts and swells.

Probably just as well.  Ask the pro if they mind you watching or even if they are willing to teach you the basics. ;-)

I found some similar but smaller damage that had been bodged many years ago (newer gelcoat on top of crushed GRP) and ground out about a 6"x8" area and fixed it last winter.  I have done quite a few below the waterline GRP repairs and modifications on our CO26 (including refitting the stern tube, a new solid GRP depth transducer fairing block and removing all traces of the old transducer mounting hole)  but might even call in a pro myself if I had as much damage as you do.

I respect that you have accepted you cannot give Galaxaura the care and attention she deserves and finish the refit yourself so are now looking for a good home for her.   If  the exterior refit is close to complete, have it finished as it will make her much easier to sell.

Lets hope for a quick sale, and that you find time to do some crewing next year.

No worries.  Magnesium anodes will last for a week or more in salt water.  Volvo Penta's recommendation is to change them if in salt water for over 7 days.  For a C026 on a mooring, you would get negligible electrolytic corrosion over couple of days or so even if the anode had dropped off unless the boat had a major pre-existing problem or totally unsuitable mixes of metals underwater

I just didn't want to risk your prop dropping off later this year if you did nothing . . . .

Just add tack pennants for smaller sails that would have sheeting positions uncomfortably close to the forward end of the track.  With modern easy to splice Vectran, Dyneema or Spectra hollow braid easily available, each sail that needs it can have an individual tack pennant permanently spliced on with little risk of chafe or damage in the bag. Don't forget to fit a hank or small shackle right at the tack to transfer the foot tension to the forestay.  Roller furling sails need a slug here or a very well attached  boltrope that extends down the pennant.  If you are getting a storm jib, it should NOT have a pennant, but should instead have a very high cut foot so it doesn't need one. Talk to your sailmaker!

For ghosters etc. just use the spinny sheets and turning blocks right aft.  They will set better with the lighter sheets anyway.  Lead angle can then be controlled with twingers on the sheets led through the genoa fairleads on the tracks or through blocks on any convenient strong point outboard of the primaries (my preference as the jib sheets are in one piece with a quick release at the clew)  to the spinny winches, while the sheets are handled on the primaries.

A pair of really good high load snatch blocks with positive locking gates would be useful.  Alternatively (or as well)  keeping clip on plain blocks permanently threaded on a pair of sheets that can be used for pole guys, preventers, twingers etc. Obviously you then need to  add padeyes forward and aft of the track ends and anywhere else an  extra strongpoint is needed, but it is cheaper, neater when not in use, less prone to walking off is some thief's pocket, and also as quick if not quicker to rig than permanently mounted 'idle' blocks for some or all of these duties.   Don't cheapen out the end fittings on those sheets. If you cant afford really good light high load ones, it is better to have a pair of over size plastic thimbles (as used for eye splices) you can tie bowlines round when used as twingers and tie the sheets on for all the other applications.

How doesn't it fit?  If it goes right on but wobbles, there isn't a lot that can be done.  If it  doesn't go on then either the shaft or prop could be machined to fit.    If the shaft is original, you should probably replace it anyway or at least  get it checked for wear and cracks.  If you need to change the shaft, expect to replace the coupling at the gearbox end as well!

You *MAY* be able to get enough extra length to re-cut the taper even if it wobbles if you don't already have a flexible coupling by installing one between the gearbox and shaft.

BTDT :-)

Ian

That article is a little lean on content :-(

I am surprised you rejected Yanmar as the 1GM10 is still available and is pretty much the default option over here for C026es and anything else in the 22' to 27' range.  The main limiting factor is the width of the engine across the aft mounts.  Their interaction with the curve of the hull means there is a big tradeoff between shaft angle and protrusion into the cabin.  If you fit after-market mounts from R&D couplings, you get a 1/2" reduction in height + the mounts are available with shields to protect against stray oil and diesel + they are captive mounts that do not need safety wiring.  The price of the R&D mounts is approximately 1/4 the price of the Yanmar ones so you should be able to resell the unused Yanmar ones and make a profit on the deal.  'toe in' the rear mounts and invert the air filter mounting plate to let you mount the engine a few inches further aft and the amount of engine box rebuilding required should be fairly minimal.

I was hoping for something interesting like building a template with a sheet of ply for the mounting plane of the engine and coupling face, complete with bolt circle and blocks of wood + allthread to mock up the mounts and polystyrene blocks to mock up the rest of the volume it takes, then bolting it up to the shaft and sliding it back and forward while checking clearances on the hull and joinery or mounting a laser pointer inline with the coupling center and checking alignment that way.

How much of the work did you actually do yourself?

Stripping and rebuilding your Farymann to factory specs would almost certainly have cured its misbehaviours which may have been due to low compression + either fuel starvation or some temperature related problem.  If you stripped it and inspected all the parts BEFORE ordering any spares, you would have known whether it was worth doing and only been out the cost of the workshop manual.

I rebuilt my over 20 year old 1GM10 a few winters ago.  Total bill for the engine came to approx 1/4 the cost of a new installation though I didn't do the gearbox.  90% of the work I did myself, using specialists for the crankshaft regrinding and injector reconditioning, but for final assembly and testing I did a deal to use a bench at my tame auto mechanic so I could use some of his specialised tools and have experienced assistance with some of the trickier bits like getting the timing case back on with the linkages properly engaged.

I guess it all depends how 'hands on' you are willing to get.  If you have lots of money and are never going to cruise remote areas, you can just ask the yard to re-engine your boat, but if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, and aren't a danger to yourself and others if in sight of a toolbox, and are capable of reading a service manual +  stopping to ask advice if you aren't sure rather than bulling on "Git 'er done!" till you break something expensive, being your own small diesel mechanic is something most yacht owners can do.  The payoff  is the first time you fix your own or a friend's engine in a remote harbour, with no local mechanic or one who "No hablo Inglés".

I have a Raymarine ST50 through hull depth transducer fitted a short way aft from the start of the front of the keel under the port berth trotterbox. (I have a berth where most bots have the galley and the galley is by the companionway.)

I fitted it myself as the in-hull sounder a couple of feet aft under the starboard berth kept loosing the bottom in shallow or deep water.

To fit it straight, I glassed up a 1/4" thick tube of GRP over a former of the correct diameter (actually a spray can + several layers of waxed paper), cut a bigger hole right through the hull and filleted it with tape and chopped strand + layup resin putty. On the outside I built up a solid GRP streamlined fairing block with a horizontal bottom face.  The transducer is well bedded in Sikaflex, with a strand of whipping twine 'wormed' into the thread nearly all the way down as a 'bond-breaker' for if I ever need to get it out non-destructively.  It shoots straight down and never looses the bottom in less than 50m unless I am in the propwash of a tugboat or similar.

A 1GM10 + a three bladed prop will make useful progress to windward in any conditions you would want to be out in and has enough power to 'dodge' to windward in a gale at an average of 0.5 - 1 knot flat out in any sea-state up to more than sufficient to roll the boat, so can keep you off a lee shore for as long as the fuel and helmsman hold out. (BTDT till the tide turned). 

Installation is fairly simple as such things go for anyone experienced. Assuming existing engine beds in approximately the right place and a pre-existing suitable shaft, you could even get away with doing it afloat! 

If you already have a diesel fuel system, single lever control, waterlift exhaust etc. you could be pleasantly surprised how easy it is.  The control panel and idiot lights are so simple you could probably splice into the loom to your existing panel.

The Yanmar mounts are pretty soft and it does bounce around a fair bit.  Beware of stress on your shaft seal, you may want to add a plummer block or other mid-shaft bearing + a flexible coupling. 

Aftermarket mounts, shielded for oil resistance and that do NOT require lock-wiring for blue water use (unlike Yanmar ones) and approx 1/2" lower profile are available from R&D Couplings for approximately 1/4 the price of the Yanmar ones.  You may even come out ahead if selling on a brand new set of Yanmar mounts.
They are a bit stiffer so more resonances, but not a problem as long as you don't keep it running at the resonant speed for long. 

You can actually set the idle low enough to get 'dead slow' as your minimum speed in gear for ferry-gliding against only 1Kt of tide/current. (Hint: adjust the control so the throttle doesn't start to pick up till you are out of the detent for slow ahead/astern for better controllability.) Up to 100RPM less than the official idle speed should work fine, just tune it to avoid unwanted resonances at idle.  Don't go more than 50RPM on the high side to avoid excessive gearbox wear when engaging gear.