2

(1 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

3

(5 replies, posted in Wanted)

You can measure my door if you like, before I put the tarp on.
I'm in Toronto at the NYC.
cheers, bertinol

4

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

I love a cockpit you can sleep in on a hot day, or fit more than three people for a drink or picnic.

As for headroom: if you want to stand up, go buy a canoe!

Seriously, I always wear a hat down below. That way I don't bang my head.

5

(3 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

7

(2 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

I second the motion!!!!
Good job, Adrian!

I've sailed several Contessas of varying ages and I do think the later ones have a different 'feel'.  But I would have a very hard time explaining exactly what the difference is or saying which ones are 'better'.

The post-1980 boats - about No. 300 - have more headroom, a skylight, an anchor locker, a lead keel and more finishing touches. They also seem a little sleeker and little more stable.  But it's hard to say whether they are any better or worse.
 
It's a topic that comes up a lot in my circle, but I have no firm answer. Perhaps other members would be more articulate than me???????

9

(9 replies, posted in Cruising)

Thanks Christopher for the thanks...

I've sailed in several Contessas of varying ages and I do think the later ones have a different 'feel'.  But I would have a very hard time explaining exactly what the difference is or saying which ones are 'better'.

Perhaps other members would be more articulate than me???????

10

(9 replies, posted in Cruising)

Christopher...
Don't forget that JJT boats have a lighter keel - by 390 pounds - to compensate for the lower buoyancy of fresh water. This was done in about 1969 when Al Scott first brought the design over from England.

That means the bootstripe should be the same.
 
The sales brochure for JJT 352 - laid down 20 years later, at the end of the Canadian run - gives a keel weight of 2,300 pounds, and a total displacement of 5,400.

The early boats had a cast iron keel. Post 1980 - about boat 300 - the keels were made of lead, a heavier metal which took up less room allowing them to lower the floor.

The JJT boats have a longer cockpit, taller mast and the forestay is further forward to compensate for lighter winds and more sunshine in Canada.

That IS early. It would have been laid down in 1969 or 1970 at the JJ Taylor yards at the bottom of Stadium Rd in Toronto. But it seems to have many mods from the post-1980 era.

The owners were Jack Martin and Al Scott, both gone. Jack's son, Roger Martin, is still around and still running the fibreglass truck body factory on Laird Ave in Toronto.  It is DEL Equipment Ltd. You should say hello next time you are in Toronto.

If you head over to England, they are still making Contessas 32s in Lymington, a small yacht town just west of Southampton. They are a friendly bunch.

Very interesting. You seem to have a 70s boat with lots of 80s mods, all of them improvements. Sounds like you got a good boat.

Lowering the floor would be very difficult becos it was a one-piece mould.
The traveller is new, a common add-on. The motor sounds good too. The standard head door is a very tight fit so many were taken off. Don't remove the bulkhead though. Several people have, to their instant regret.

I'll put a magnet on my keel sometime soon to see whether cast-iron attracts.

But enough talking. Time to go for a sail --- once the ice melts.

from a friendly Contessa owner...

"Hmm... an anchor locker or sail number would clinch this. The lowered floor would be factory installed, he says his has been lowered? Interesting."

He suggested you check out the photographs in the Contessa history, currently on sale at The Nautical Mind bookshop and its booth at the boat show.
The Contessa 26: The First 50 Years

It's a lovely book and well worth buying....... Definitely a keeper.

one more thing, sorry.

How many pintles on the rudder.
My boat is a 1975. It has two pintles.
Later boats had three.....

Bob
This is getting out of my area of expertise. Some of the mods you mention sound like a post-1980, post-300 boat.
These later boats had different hatches, a hatch behind the mainmast, a lower floor and so on. Do you have an anchor locker near the bow? That would indicate post 1980.
I'd check the mainsail and jib to see if there is a sail number. That would help a lot.

I'd also call up some of the other Contessa owners so you can compare boats.
Where are you located? There is quite a group in Toronto who would be more than willing to show you their boats, particularly after the winter tarps come off...

That's an easy one.

To identify yr boat look at the hull number that is embedded in the fibreglass on the outside of the starboard quarter of the hull. This was embedded when the fibreglass was laid down.

A hull number such as SN ZJT 03 308 0885 stands for:
SN - I don't know
ZJT is JJ Taylor Toronto, which built the Canadian boats from 1969 on using modified British molds
03 is the Contessa 26
308 is the sail number. That would fit the year it was laid up, which was
0885 - August 1985.

A boat built in 1970 would have a sail number of 50 or less.

Some early boats did not have numbers, but they made detail changes through the years so you might be able to compare your boat with other early ones.

The Yanmars did not come along until much later. My 1975 boat has a Petter diesel.

Try us. We're still here despite the ice and snow.

News from the Contessa 26 UK Class Association

It gives Mike and I great pleasure in becoming your Joint Secretary following the AGM in Lymington on Saturday.

We are using a new email which is
mikeandbarbaracontessa26@gmail.com  . 
If you could use this one to email us instead of our other ones it will make it much easier for us to have all the emails for the class in this one email address. 

Our home telephone number is 01983 297406, Mike’s mobile is 07968 6362101 and Barbara’s mobile is 07850 205994. (from Canada, use: 011 44 1983 297406 (no zero after 44)

David Houlton has served as Secretary for the last 10 years and retired from the post at the AGM.  To mark the occasion of his retirement and to thank him he was unanimously awarded Honorary Membership of the Class Association and this was in addition to the beautiful half model of Elinor (his Contessa 26) which was made by Jeremy Rogers which we had the pleasure to present him at the 50th Anniversary Rally Dinner attended by 130 people.

We request that you no longer email David Houlton on the Contessa 26 Class business to save him forwarding lots of emails. 

The details of the Officers and committee posts following the AGM are: -
Class Captain:                   David Pugh
Secretary: (Joint)               Mike and Barbara Harrison
Treasurer:                          Ben Pugh is continuing
Racing Captain:                 Tom Olden
Newsletter:                         Deborah Arnold
Membership:                      Richard Pickance from January

Mike and Barbara Harrison

20

(0 replies, posted in Wanted)

does anybody have a Contessa cradle that they don't need?
in the Toronto area???

thanks

I like your notes Christopher. Very sensible .. and practical.

And good for you Matilda. She looks good. Stop worrying and Go sailing!!!

22

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

Christopher
I'm with you.
When I bought my 1975 boat I discovered it did NOT have seacocks on the cockpit drains. No idea why not. I thought it would be a key safety feature since the cockpit drain outlets are often under water.
The first job I did was to install brand new seacocks just in case a pipe burst or came off and sank the boat.
 
On that subject, I watched a very expensive motor cruiser slowly sink at launch this year. The owner had attached the engine cooling inlet pipe with one loose clip instead of two tight ones. The pipe came off, the water flowed in and the boat slowly settled.
Luckily, one of his neighbours noticed the boat sinking and quickly reattached the pipe.
Again, no seacock. 
I don't understand it. A $100,000 boat full of luxury fittings but they don't bother with an engine seacock.

23

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

Christopher:
I wanted to make sure the rudder guard stayed on even with abrasion from mooring lines, weeds or the occasional grounding, plus any banging when lowering the boat into the cradle every fall.

I wanted to be safe so overdid the attachment method.  I decided to use three 3/4-inch sheet metal screws with big heads, made of stainless steel so they wouldn't rust. I drilled three holes through my eight-inch strip of fibreglass batten and three matching pilot holes into the bottom of the keel.

Then I slathered the screws, batten and pilot holes with epoxy to make sure they stayed in place, but also to prevent any water getting into the keel.

The rudder guard is still firmly in place five years later with no sign of any water ingress into the keel.

I always say: If it's worth doing, it's worth over-doing!

24

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

A handy tip to prevent an expensive accident:

The earlier boats do not have a guard to prevent bits of line or weeds from getting caught between the keel and the rudder, a potentially disastrous problem that could rip the rudder off.
I made my own guard by cutting a piece of fibreglass sail batten about six inches long and screwing it into the bottom of the keel. Now any stray bits of line, anchor chain, mooring ball line or weeds just slip along the bottom of the keel and rudder without getting caught.

25

(27 replies, posted in Technical)

Deb/Dave
Makes sense to me. You may well have a different arrangement.
My Contessa is no. 156, built in 1975; the other was built in 1978.
I have two pins; the other might (?) have three. Can't remember.
But our two boats are a generation older than Dave's and Deb's.