76

(6 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Captain of HMS Bounty made ‘reckless decision’ to sail into Hurricane Sandy, report into fatal 2012 sinking says

Brock Vergakis, Associated Press
February 10, 2014

NORFOLK, Va. — The captain of a replica 18th-century sailing ship that sank off North Carolina in superstorm Sandy made a reckless decision to sail the HMS Bounty into the hurricane’s well-forecast path, the National Transportation Safety Board reported Monday.
The three-masted wooden sailing ship sank more than 200 kilometres southeast of Cape Hatteras in October 2012 as Sandy churned up the Atlantic seaboard. The newly released safety board report said Capt. Robin Walbridge’s “reckless decision” to sail into the storm subjected the aging vessel and its inexperienced crew to conditions they couldn’t surmount.
One member of the HMS Bounty’s 16-person-crew died and Walbridge was never found after the sinking off North Carolina’s Outer Banks, an ocean expanse with a history of shipwrecks. Three other crew members aboard the vessel — built for the 1962 film Mutiny on the Bounty starring Marlon Brando — were seriously injured.
“Although this wooden ship was modelled after an 18th century vessel, the captain had access to 21st century hurricane modeling tools that predicted the path and severity of hurricane Sandy,” board chairman Deborah A.P. Hersman said in a statement. “The Bounty’s crew was put into an extraordinarily hazardous situation through decisions that by any measure didn’t prioritize safety.”
Superstorm Sandy was one of the most destructive storms in U.S. history. Although it had weakened to a post-tropical cyclone when it made landfall in New Jersey, its enormous size pushed a catastrophic storm surge toward much of the heavily populated East Coast.
Besides Mutiny on the Bounty the ship was featured in several other films over the years, including one of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies. When not in use by movie makers, the ship was a pierside attraction for visitors in ports and also served as an educational ship that taught people how to sail.
Built at Smith and Ruhland Shipyard in Lunenburg, N.S., the ship last visited the province in August 2012 when the replica participated in a tall ships festival.
The 33-metre-long ship set sail from New London, Conn., for St. Petersburg, Fla. on Oct. 25, 2012, a day after Sandy reached hurricane strength. The plan was for the Bounty to arrive in St. Petersburg for a Nov. 10 event. But early in the morning of Oct. 29, 2012, the ship sank after taking on more than three metres of water. Crew members had to swim for their lives in the dark when the ship overturned.
“It was an end to a voyage that should not have been attempted. To set sail into an approaching hurricane introduced needless risk,” the safety board report says.
During testimony last February at a Coast Guard hearing in Portsmouth, Va., surviving crew members repeatedly said Walbridge believed a ship was safer at sea in a storm than in port. Before sailing, Walbridge told nervous crew that his plan was to sail the Bounty on a southeasterly course and let the hurricane pass southwest of it.
But as the ship headed south, the path of the storm changed and began heading west. Walbridge, too, decided to head west — directly into Sandy’s path.
“It is possible that the captain may have focused too narrowly on the position of the storm’s eye instead of on Sandy’s total expanse,” said the report, noting storm winds spanned more than 1,600 kilometres in diameter, and that the Bounty was heading into an area already under tropical storm warnings.
“Still, the captain seemed to believe that he could outrace the storm,” the safety board report added.
It said Walbridge had hoped winds around the storm system would push the vessel southwest toward Florida, but that he and senior crew seemingly failed to anticipate the effect prolonged exposure to the storm would have on the wooden vessel.
While the safety board report details numerous events leading to the sinking, it places the bulk of the blame on Walbridge.
Among other things, it noted that while the Bounty took on water even in good sailing conditions, he gave no order to ensure the ship’s pumps were fully working before leaving Connecticut even though rough seas were expected. Some wood rot also had been recently discovered on the ship, the safety board said. he report also says the ship’s parent organization showed a lack of effective safety oversight.
The HMS Bounty Organization is facing a lawsuit in Long Island, N.Y., from the mother of deceased crew member Claudene Christian, 42. The lawsuit claims negligence, alleging the vessel wasn’t seaworthy and that Walbridge shouldn’t have taken it out to sea. The Bounty’s former engineer, Christopher Barksdale, is also suing the East Setauket, N.Y.-based Bounty organization and its owner.
None of the allegations in the lawsuits have been proven in court.
During the 2013 Coast Guard hearing, the owner of the HMS Bounty, Robert Hansen, declined to testify by invoking his Fifth Amendment right to be protected from incriminating himself.
An email to Hansen’s attorneys wasn’t immediately returned late Monday.
The Associated Press, with files from Reuters, news services

Cruising World
March 27, 2012

Pocket World Girdler: Contessa 26

A posse of young adventurers made the Contessa 26 a legend.
"Classic Plastic" from our April 2012 issue.

by Ryan Langley

For a boat to become legendary, it doesn’t have to be particularly
fast or of groundbreaking design. It only needs that special spark
that captures the sailing world’s hearts and minds long enough for it
to go down in history. A number of boats with that quality come
quickly to my mind—the S&S 34, Flicka 20, Swan 38, Valiant 40—but none
holds the same place in my memories as the Contessa 26.

I grew up reading of feats accomplished aboard Contessas by Tania
Aebi, Brian Caldwell, and John Kretschmer, so when the Australian
adventurer Jesse Martin asked if I’d like to deliver his Contessa 26
from Grand Bahama, in the Bahamas, to Panama and through the Canal, I
jumped at the opportunity.

The Contessa 26 was drawn up in 1965 by Jeremy Rogers, who’d built
Folkboats for a number of years, and David Sadler, who had ideas on
how to improve the design. They took the classic Folkboat, modified
the keel, added more sail area forward for racing performance, changed
the layout and deck structure, and built it of fiberglass instead of
wood. Four decades later, the popular and widely loved vessel is still
safely taking sailors to the far reaches of the globe.

Right away, the Contessa 26 proved itself a strong, seaworthy vessel.
It performed well in the Round Britain and Ireland Race and the OSTAR
solo transatlantic race, but the brave little boat really became
famous when 18-year-old Tania Aebi chose the design for her solo
circumnavigation in 1985 and her adventures in Varuna were published
in Cruising World. In 1996, Brian Caldwell sailed a Contessa to become
the first to circumnavigate under the age of 21.

The Contessa 26 is good-looking, with low freeboard and a narrow beam.
For such a small boat, it has a large cockpit, which is nice for
having guests aboard and daysailing but a potential danger when filled
with water at sea. When sailing, the Contessa heels over quickly, but
it soon steadies up and can carry full sail in up to 20 knots of wind.

It doesn’t take much wind to get the boat moving, and it can
comfortably make 120-nautical-mile days on passages. After sailing the
boat upwind for 300 miles through the Bahamas, I’ll admit that its
upwind performance isn’t impressive, but it makes up for it with its
ability to survive almost any storm.

  The single-spreader sloop rig could easily be converted into a
cutter with running backstays and an inner forestay for offshore
performance and safety. On some boats, the halyards and reefing lines
have been led aft to the cockpit for easy handling. For those who
prefer to work forward at sea, the wide side decks and ample handholds
permit safe passage to the foredeck.

Down below, the boat has a V-berth forward and a small head and
hanging locker aft of that. A small galley and navigation table are
positioned aft of the main bulkhead, and two sea berths complete the
accommodations. There’s no standing headroom below, which can get old
after a few days locked up in the cabin at sea, and the poor air
circulation could benefit from added vents, but the boat has
everything a singlehander really needs for long-distance voyaging.

Jeremy Rogers built about 350 Contessa 26s in the United Kingdom, and
another 400 ((actually 352))) were built by J.J. Taylor in Canada. At
listed prices from $10,000 to $15,000, used boats are an affordable
option for sailors who want to safely head offshore on a budget.

CONTESSA 26
LOA    25’ 6”    (7.77m.)
LWL    21’ 0”    (6.40m.)
Beam    7’ 6”    (2.29m.)
Draft    4’ 0”    (1.22m.)
Sail Area (100%)    304 sq. ft.    (28.2 sq. m.)
Ballast    2,300 lb.    (1,043 kg.)
Displacement    5,400 lb.    (2,449 kg.)
Ballast/D    .43
D/L    260
SA/D    15.8
Water    10 gal.    (37 l.)
Fuel    11 gal.    (45 l.)
Engine    Various
Designer    David Sadler/Jeremy Rodgers

Ryan Langley is a 19-year-old adventurer, sailor, writer, and musician
from Port Angeles, Washington.
  -30-

79

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I use Marlow whipping twine, available, as they say, at chandlers everywhere  in many colours.

Marlow also sells a very sticky tape that is good for binding the end of lines.

But -- top secret --  a lot of sailmakers use standard, ordinary dental floss. It works fine. Is very strong and looks like the real thing!

80

(3 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

We're currently updating the swing moorings at our club in Lake Ontario.   

One question that has arisen is: How long should the mooring pennants be?  That is the line from the mooring buoy to the bow cleat.

Some people argue it should be twice the freeboard plus the length from the fairlead to the cleat.

Some want longer lines to give an easier ride in stormy weather; some want shorter lines to limit the amount of swing.

Any good ideas? The water is 12 feet deep. No tides, currents or significant waves, but we do get high winds.

81

(0 replies, posted in For Sale)

Contessa for sale
1973, Vire motor
Lots of sails and anchors
$6,000
Call Lily 905 634 4972 in Burlington, Ont.

as advertised in GAM, boat show issue

At the risk of muddying the waters, Little Minute was originally named Karl Scott, a dark blue Contessa that sat at the National Yacht Club in Toronto for many years.

It was completely refurbished, the hull was painted, the wood was redone. They did a lovely job.
If you search the forum for "Little Minute" you will find quite a dialogue back a year or so ago.

I used a six-inch piece of left-over fibreglass batten to prevent lines from catching in the rudder. I drilled two holes in the keel and attached it with sheet metal screws. Works fine.

Some Contessas suffer a lot of wear in the pintles. A machinist friend discovered that you can sweat out the worn-out pintle and replace it with a new one. That sure beats replacing the entire unit.

84

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Outboard, with sheets going as far back as the pulpit.
When dropping sails, head into the wind and bring the clew inboard. That cuts the chance of the sail getting wet. 
I use a downhaul on the forestay when sailing solo. That makes life easier - and safer -  in rough seas.

85

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Bnold:
I wouldn't bother with the expense of the Samson line on a Contessa. Regular 3/8 inch braided nylon is perfectly good for cruising, and perhaps preferable because it has more stretch.

For the topping lift, it sounds like the current cheek block needs replacing with a block capable of handling  3/8 line. You don't want the block to crack even more and trap the line.

You could use your current topping lift as is. Just attach the wire end  to the top of the mast and the rope end to a block and cleat at the end of the boom. Then you can adjust the line as needed before hoisting or dropping the sail.

I have a niftier idea on my boat. The topping lift is 1/4 inch nylon that goes from the end of the boom to a block at the top of the mast, down to a block at the bottom of the mast and to a jam cleat adjacent to the main sail halliard  near the cockpit. I can hoist the main and loosen the topping lift very easily, and then reverse the procedure when lowering the sail. That sure beats reaching to the cleat at the end of the boom in a rough sea.

86

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I'd switch to 3/8 inch line because it is so much nicer on the hands. But check the blocks at the top of the mast to make sure they can handle line, not just the original wire. Replacing the blocks will be an expense and could be a nuisance.

While you are at it, put some proper shackles at the end of the halliards. They make life a lot easier.

87

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Bnold..
Could it be a topping lift? It's about the right length.  Attach the wire end to the top of the mast and the rope end to the end of the boom. Release the rope to de-tension the sail. 

Older halliards had line spliced into wire, but it's 30 feet too short for a halliard.

The tape may be sealer for your windows and hatch???????  Is the rubbery tape a thin foam? ie peel back the white tape and stick the foam on.

88

(8 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Hello there.
Some of these older travellers can be hard to match because they keep changing the specs. I'd take the stop and go through the spare parts bin at a chandlery and find something that seems to fit.
A better idea is to toss out the stops and put on a functioning traveller system with two blocks on the car and at each end, with a jam cleat. Then you can move the traveller car with one hand while steering with the other.
The best part is that you won't have to match the current track. Just tap and bolt the blocks to the car and the end of the traveller.
They are too complicated to explain but there are lots of sailing boats with one that you can copy.

89

(0 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It's September and the thoughts of sailors turn to: Cleaning sails.

You could take the sail into one of the sail repair houses and pay $1 a square foot or whatever the going rate is nowadays or:
Check for tiny holes and sew them up. Dental floss works well!
Buy a bottle of sail cleaner (ie detergent) and a scrubbing brush.
Spread the sail out on a warehouse floor, take off your shoes and scrub and hose until it is clean.
Then hang it out on the washing line to dry.
That's all that sailmakers ever do. There's no magic to cleaning sails.

Good idea, Christopher, cos the Dzus screws fall into the bilge and are hard to recover. I have a three-foot long grabber that I bought at a dollar store. It picks up all sorts of old nuts and bolts from the oily mess down there.

91

(4 replies, posted in Wanted)

mhall....
The ones that came with the boat were stainless steel, of good quality and apparently indestructible. They've lasted for 38 years.
The ones I bought recently on eBay were also very good, but not stainless. They look very good and work well. Time will tell.
I have also seen some cheap knock-offs that were much lower quality, poorer quality machining. One broke the first time I used it.
I tried sourcing stainless steel ones from the manufacturer and was told I would have to buy a minimum of 500 at some huge price; the cheap knock-offs were $5 each; the good ones on eBay were $1 each, plus postage of course. 

Not a very technical answer but the bottom line is that you only need a dozen or so. You can't lose at $1 or $5 each.

92

(4 replies, posted in Wanted)

As reported elsewhere, I bought some Dzus fasteners on eBay and they work just fine, ending an 18-month search!  Make sure you order part no. "Dzus AJ5-90". I tried AJ5-65, but they are a little short.
For people unfamiliar with Dzus fasteners, they really work a treat. You insert them into the hole, give them a quarter-turn with a dime and they lock the cockpit floor down tight.
They were designed to hold down the cowlings on airplanes, racing cars and sport motorcycles where you have to act fast with no chance of breakdown. That means they work well on Contessas!

I'm happy to report that I bought some Dzus fasteners on eBay and they work just fine, ending an 18-month search! 
Thank you Christopher for tipping me off to eBay. Don't know why I didn't think of that.
Make sure you order part no. "Dzus AJ5-90". I tried AJ5-65, but they are a little short.
For people unfamiliar with Dzus fasteners, they really work a treat. You insert them into the hole, give them a quarter-turn with a dime and they lock the cockpit floor down tight.
They were designed to hold down the cowlings on airplanes, racing cars and sport motorcycles where you have to act fast with no chance of breakdown. That means they work well on Contessas!

Progress!

Victory, almost!!

I headed down to Aircraft Spruce at Brantford Airport yesterday on the trail of Dzus quarter-turn fasteners. They told me that we need -- DZUS AJ5-90 -- fasteners. But unfortunately they had none in stock, they are expensive and ordering takes a long time.

They referred me to David Clubine at Britain West Motorsport, a mile or so closer to Brantford, at 148 Pleasant Ridge Rd. 519 756-1610 . Clubine supplies parts for Formula Ford racing cars, including a modern version of the Dzus fastener. These are used to hold body panels onto the cars.

He recommended model -- EHF5-85 . They are of cheaper quality than the original Dzus fastener, they have a flat head instead of a slight dome, they are slightly shorter and you have to cut off the retainer, a two-minute job. But, with a little push, they work. 

I bought 12 at $5.70 each for a total of $68.40 plus HST. 

And they work!!!!!!  I may have to chamfer the hole very slightly but I see them as a very good alternative to the DZUS.

David Clubine seems like a decent guy. I'd order one from him to see if you approve and then go ahead. Or if you are in the Toronto area, pick up one from me and see if it works on your boat.

BNOLD 5000...
I'll fetch one of my Dzus fasteners tomorrow and post the dimensions.
Sounds like Seeadler has a good source. I'll check them out next week.
I'll be thrilled to finally find a good source.

My cockpit floor has DZUS fasteners. They are very clever bolts that are used to attach panels on airplanes, racing cars and motorcycles. You insert them, they engage a spring underneath and you give them a quarter turn. You can release them in a hurry without tools - a wonderful idea.

They are available at an industrial fastener wholesaler near Pearson airport in Toronto but you have to buy 500 or so at a time at a prohibitive price.

If anybody has any idea where to get 10 or so, I'd be eternally grateful.

Otherwise, another member recommended electrical panel bolts -- see my posting last February under "WANTED."

Don't forget that you'll need a sizeable truck to pull a Contessa and trailer, a combination that will weigh something over three tons. A Ford 150 or U-Haul truck can manage that over short distances, but you are planning to go 2,000 miles. 
Something to think about.

98

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

You could take a short cut up the Hudson River and then the Erie Canal.  It's a very pretty route but you'll have to lower the mast and motor for most of the way. There are lots of marinas that will raise and lower your mast for minimal cost if you shop around.

99

(0 replies, posted in For Sale)

Sorry, sold. They went to a good home, a nearby Contessa!

.........

Contessa cushions:
Homemade but well done, sapphire blue.
All proceeds go to charity.

You should drop by Genco Marine in Toronto and check their catalogue.
Everything is there.