Aha, tying something to the end of the rode bigger than the opening the rode passes through makes good sense. That also makes for one less hole in the boat!
Thanks much for the replies.
1 2014-11-14 10:21:17
Re: Missing anchor rode attachment point (3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
2 2014-11-11 22:09:53
Topic: Missing anchor rode attachment point (3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hi all,
I have a '74 JJT Co 26 which has what appears to be a proper chain locker forward of the V berth except that I don't see an attachment point for the anchor rode.
Perhaps I'm missing something but am curious what is the "stock" arrangement for attaching the anchor rode to the boat below deck?
Thanks much,
David
3 2014-10-10 09:39:17
Re: Strange tubing (5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
Thanks for posting the diagram. That cinches the deal and I will be holding on to these tubes. They are one of the few "custom" parts in the Monitor set-up and to have them made can be as much as $4/ft and $30/bend. Yikes!
4 2014-10-09 09:14:33
Re: Strange tubing (5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
Thanks much for your replies - and so quick!
I tend to agree with Bnold5000 that these tubes are part of the Monitor Windvane setup that it turns out Moksha used to have. (She used to have a lot of things that have been stripped off during the years before I met her!).
The diameter of the tubes is 1 7/8".
So according to Monitor windvane pix I've seen, the tubes would be most likely the upper mounting tubes, the main supports.
Here's a pic from another San Francisco Contessa (Tess #98) that confirms that.
It seems the configuration of the upper (main) mounting tubes would have be adapted to various configurations so it would make sense that they'd be left behind since the windvane was most likely sold to someone with a different model boat.
Mystery solved! Thanks again.
David
5 2014-10-08 12:51:13
Topic: Strange tubing (5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
These stainless tubes came with my boat and I'm wondering what they are. I suspect they are pieces from a wind vane it had before I purchased it.
Do they look familiar to anyone?
Thanks much,
David
6 2014-04-17 09:39:23
Re: mast lights don't work (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Thanks Ian,
Your post is the Physics class I never had but wanted! I'll fill in the chart with a proper meter this time.
I'm not 100% certain about the bulb type or anything else on this boat. I'll assume they are "conventional" for the time being.
The next wave of tests ought to give an answer.
Hoping to be back on the boat in the next couple of days.
7 2014-04-16 21:05:52
Re: mast lights don't work (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Ok, I visited the boat today and checked the resistance of the 3 wires coming from the mast - the colors btw are black, white, and green.
Ian asked for the readings of the different combinations in ohms.
My meter isn't super accurate - its the type with a dial.
with the probes of the meter shorted I got 1 ohm.
Green to white - 150 ohms
Green to black - 35 ohms
Black to white - 40 ohms
Can it be deduced from this that black is ground?
8 2014-04-14 08:19:01
Re: mast lights don't work (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Thanks much for the advice. I'll go checking the next time I'm on the boat which I hope is very soon.
9 2014-04-13 22:03:48
Topic: mast lights don't work (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I realize there's a recent post dealing with mast wiring...
My situation is a little different in that I would like to use the existing wiring if only I could understand it.
At the moment, the mast lights don't work.
What I find in my boat are 4 wires (white (grd), yellow, green, and blue) running from the panel to a female socket at the base of the mast. This socket tests fine with the voltmeter.
Coming down from the mast are only 3 wires that don't match the colors listed above. It seems the socket has one prong slightly larger than the others so that it will only fit together in one position. That larger prong seems to be for ground and in this case has no wire attached to it from the mast.
That leaves 3 possible reasons why the lights don't work -
1.The lights are grounded by the mast but coincidentally the anchor and steaming light bulbs need replacing (and maybe a third light)
2.One of the wires is ground but goes to the wrong prong.
3.I need a ground wire to the light fixtures.
If anyone has any enlightening (pun intended) input I would be grateful!
Any thoughts that might inform and/or enlighten the situation would be appreciated!
Meantime, I'll try to find out if one of those wires is actually for ground. That would be easier than going up the mast to check a light bulb...
10 2014-04-09 15:27:03
Re: Hull Number / Identification Number (16 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)
I'm arriving at this thread a little late... My hull number starts with WMP. I'd assumed it was a Canadian built Contessa from 1974.
11 2014-04-04 08:46:13
Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hi Ian,
The engine, according to the PO, cranked but wouldn't turn over. That bodes well for the cylinder in that it wasn't seized. I haven't tried to turn it since but will do so.
The head was sent to a shop who pronounced it dead on arrival thanks to corrosion, clogging, etc so it was tossed out.
I have no experience with diesel engines so your advice is especially valuable. I have Yanmar manuals but haven't spent much time with them yet.
I'd be fixing it up in my backyard and then if I can get it going, reinstall it. It would be easier reinstalling the head while its all out of the engine compartment anyway.
I hear this problem with the head is fairly common. You mentioned some possible causes. Another reason I'm told is diesels like to be run for long periods and more often than not, they are used only for short stints in and out of a marina. I would definitely be interested in ways to safeguard against having a problem-ridden engine.
Right now, the PO is apprising the marina of the situation and hopefully the slip will just transfer over to me.
Thanks again
12 2014-04-02 16:56:39
Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Thanks for your sobering and well thought out reply, Ian.
Repairing the 1gm10 could be the most cost effective way to go if its just the head and other parts you mentioned.
The loose prop shaft knocking around is a scary thought and I don't want to put the boat on the hard now if I can get it back together where she sits.
The pressure of a move doesn't help the thinking process either so I'll try to work something out with the marina to just keep things status quo. The seller really wants to see me move it out of there so perhaps there's some friction with the marina.
13 2014-04-02 11:00:34
Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I'm hoping to achieve getting in and out of the marina and getting out of the way if the wind fails.
I read on this forum (http://contessa26.wordpress.com/2007/01/15/44/ ) that a 2.5 hp outboard is adequate and a local sailing instructor familiar with Contessas told me that 5 hp would push the boat at hull speed.
As far as steering, I've been planning to lock the tiller of the outboard and steer with the main tiller.
The inboard is still a viable option since the shaft etc is still in place.
The engine that was removed is a Yanmar 1gm10. The head was shot but the short block was said to be OK.
At this moment, time is of the essence as I relocate to another marina in 10 days. I'm thinking I can install an outboard more quickly than putting a head on my short block and reinstalling it all back in the boat being very unfamiliar with the setup. If I were to go this route, I'd want to take my time.
So that's it. Feel free to pick apart my logic please!
14 2014-04-01 13:50:27
Re: Deck mounted outboard motor mount (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hi All,
Just an update -
I'm still investigating a deck mounted motor mount for the Contessa 26.
The route I will most likely go is to have a local marine welder fabricate a bracket that can be bolted to the afterdeck and also fashion a backing plate for under the deck while he's at it.
That leads to the next issue which is finding a good adjustable and retractable mounting bracket to attach to the above arrangement.
Garelick seems like the main supplier but I'm open to ideas (and model numbers) for something that's worked for you.
Thanks again,
David
15 2014-04-01 11:58:27
Topic: Deck mounted outboard motor mount (9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hi All.
I just purchased a Contessa 26 that has the inboard engine removed.
I'd like to mount an aux. outboard motor but want to avoid installing it to the transom.
I saw a nifty looking mount by Spartan that gave me the idea of attaching a mounting bracket to the afterdeck. It looked very neat and the bracket can be removed when not in use.
The afterdeck of the Contessa might be just long enough to accommodate the bracket.
I included a pic to show an example.
Any ideas if something like this is available to the general public or if there are problems associated with using it on a Contessa?
Btw, I'm planning on using a smaller 2 stroke motor 2-5 hp while trying to keep it under 100 lbs. I'm thinking an outboard motor bracket that is adjustable and retractable would get the motor out of the water while under sail.
Any advice would be appreciated!
Thanks, David