1

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Personally I recommend the use of a harness, Petzl Croll and Petzl Jammer with a typical UK Caving 'frog' setup - climbing up a tensioned halyard means that no pendulum effect ensues. There's also the 'look no hands' joy; sit still and you'll just dangle indefinitely.
Total weight of gear is less than 2kg. cost well under a hundred.

Would certainly recommend practicing more than a few times before doing it for real.

Bit of an easier choice for me - as I have all the gear and skills from years playing around underground!

2

(6 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Just a quick note:
Amorphous silicon solar panels, though their output is significently lower per square metre, are not so immune to the shadow problems, and are capable of charging in cloudly conditions rather than requiring direct sunshine.

Solar technology has vastly improved over the last 5 years.

Wind Generators: I found that the small Rutland (model 503?) failed to 'point' properly on a pitching CO26, very rarely charging except for when in harbour. Not ideal! I'm not sure whether it was a balance problem with the vane vs. prop, or whether it was more fundamental - that the undulation of the boat was making the mounting pole swing round in a cone thereby 'spinning up' angular momentum...
They also generatre horrid amounts of MF noise - ruining Navtex reception. And can't be stripped away to reduce windage for Storms.

My next investment will most definitely be in Solar.

3

(1 replies, posted in Cruising)

4

(2 replies, posted in Cruising)

Some very interesting and complex replies above!
For those that care not for looks, take one large cable-tie, wrap it a few times around at the junction of the wire & its swage terminal, then tighten. Almost zero cost, works perfectly.

May make people in Marinas think your forestay is held together by plastic though smile

6

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

Back from a summer Falmouth --> Porto Santo --> Azores --> Falmouth run,

Best day was 134nm (the day after a gale, broad reach with a F6-7 rushing along), worst was 18 or so.
Particularly suffered in light airs - F2 was too little to run the self steering and so the boat drifted whilst asleep. It takes at least a good F4 to fully power up the rig, when one is laden down with all the necessary weight for blue-water work.

The general average seemed to run between 70 & 80nm per day; a rather pitiful 3kts!

I think the best way to improve the speed would be to get rid of any internal engine, and serious consider weight distribution.

7

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

8

(2 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

ChrisT: How did you affix the AWG #12 wire? Did you literally run it up alongside the aluminium mast, or hold it off via the spreaders? Did you tune the length at all?

Was / Is reception good enough? How far away are you from the Transmitter?

A laptop & weatherfax software is tempting, but its an awful lot of extra faff & a Peli case for such a small boat... How useful do you find it?

Sorry to grill you, but it would be very useful information!

14

(28 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Re: Windvane Pacific Light

Sailed Fantana for over 3000nm, unbelievably reliable. Only issue is that you're very exposed when you stand on the transom to physically twist the vane to change direction! Design is very simple, no grease or oil - all big milled bits of aluminium.

It sits on a marine ply & stainless steel construction, steering the boat by a ~4mm diam chain fitting in a little jammer screwed into the tiller. Small (<15 degree) corrections can be made by 'hopping' the chain along, and you can disengage the pilot in a flash. You need to build / have built some kind of block for them to dangle off the back on, if you look at the windpilot website, Fantana is the 'model' for co26s.

The vanes themselves are a simple (template supplied) bit of marine ply, held in place by a pinch grip. The little trim-rudder is similarly simple, and would be repairable pretty much anywhere. You change the angle of the vane depending on the strength of the wind. It doesn't steer brilliantly in a blow when downwind with a following sea.