26

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Christopher,
Thanx for the tip. If the track leaks the next step will be to get some Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure.

27

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

We didn't remove genny track. The backing nuts were virtually inaccesibe. If the track leaks under way then we will revisit this next time. This won't be easy.
l wasn't sure if he was going to remove the rudder cheeks, yes this would of made for a better paint/varnish line perhaps, but I trust him to make decisions in my best interest regards to need and cost. In my view he hasn't missed a beat.

28

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

For any of you, most of you, who are doing any work on your boat check out these websites
Glissando Pearson Triton #381 (google it) and  Plastic Classic Forum (google). Most of this stuff is very helpful and fun to look at...

29

(3 replies, posted in Wanted)

Thanx Jose' for the list of CO26 owners.
I was impressed by the number of boats with Bukhs. Where do you guys get your parts?
I have not been able to reach Bob Bain in NJ. His tele. is disconnected.
I contacted Crinmar up North and they gave me a price for a water temp sender unit, delivered for about $225.
This is a $25 part!!!! HELP

30

(14 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Thanx guys for letting me know I'm not the only one out here....

And while I've got your attention. let me ask again if any of you know about the Cape Horn vs Monitor?
The Monitor is certainly more popular, albiet heavier and more expensive, but the Cape Horn guy does do a pretty impressive song and dance about his unit. It's lighter and less expensive.
This is a big chunk of change and want to do it once and right.
All ears open............

31

(14 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Does anyone visit this site any longer? Certainly none or very few of you have any interest in posting.....
This is our community and will stay alive only if we feed it. In addition to being a valuable source  information for our boats an active website  also adds untold $$ value to them.
Put down the sanders, rollers and brushes and find your way to your keyboard.

32

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

stefan-d and all you other co26 people,
I would encourage you to look at and bookmark  the "Plastic Classic" website (Google it). Little specific to Contessas but all kinds of stuff  that is applicable to what we are doing with our boats.
This is were I found Tim, the "man" doing EQUINOX and the website "guy."

ps Watch for the Hinckley gold cove stripe coming soon...

33

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Yes, the 13.5. Will order it today.
Riggingonly emailed me this am to say 7/32 wire can be used with the "cupple diameters" I sent him. This will allow me to make the new chainplates with the 3/8" pin rather then reusing the 1/2" turnbuckles with the 1/4" wire. My plan, if I rerigged which is where I seem to be going, will include mechanicals where the wire meets the deck.
I hope I can keep the 1/4" wire in the forestay as it has a Furlex furler on it.

34

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The motor will be delivered with the std. reduction, 2:1. We'll make the prop selection based on this. Talking further with the Beta dealer, Joe DeMers at Sound Marine in CT and Tim, they like you are suggesting the 11" three bladed prop. I'm sure this will be a very nice combo. for this boat. Both these guys have been great to work with.

Other considerations at this time is the standing rigging. The former owner was preparing for some offshore sailing and in his preparation upped the size of the standing rigging to 1/4" wire w/ 1/2" toggles. To accomodate the 1/2" pins the chainplates were overdrilled. What's that adage about "only as strong as the weakest link?" I'm now in the process of seeing if the ball sockets on the mast will accomodate a ball with a smaller wire. If so then I'll rerig with 7/32" 316 ss with 3/8" pin turnbuckles with  new chainplates. The new chainplates will be 316ss 1/4"x 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" "x 10".
Something else which might interest you guys is my plan to have Tim make a laminated oak beam for under the mast step. This is best done while the bulkheads are out and before he starts to rewire. My thought on this is that although there doesn't seem to be to much of a problem with deck compression in these boats but that it is still better to help prevent a problem rather then try to slow or correct a problem once it has begun.
It has also been suggested that rather then a traveller we install a rigid boomvang. This never occured to me but sounds like a great idea. The angle of the mainsheet to a traveller would not be ideal considering the length of the boom.
I welcome and thankyou all for your interest and comments/suggestions on this project.
Thanx....

35

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Stefan,
There is no price difference between the 10 and 13.5. Same engine except for hp @ rated rpm.
The CT distributor strongly suggests the 13.5 and if possible enlarging the aperture so we can swing a 12 or 13" two bladed prop with more blade area. The current 12x12 two blade from the 10hp Bukh installation won't work that well. My concern is these motors should be run at least 80% of their rated rpm. This means I'll be running at 2880(80% of 36600) vs 2400 (80% of 3000) for the same hull speed. The slower rpm seems a no brainer! However this leaves less reserve power when motoring into a wind or when the alternator needs the juice for a low battery.
Tim, the refit man, strongly suggests the full panel, tach., water temp., voltmeter and oil pressure. This will be a given in either motor.
Anyone looking for a low hour Bukh???? Drop in running or buy for parts....???

36

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I've only seen the photo of the stemhead backing plate. Getting nuts on these bolts, if possible, would probably mean another 6" hole with a plastic screw cover. It may come to this...
As of this moment it's going to be the 10hp Beta. Beta is the clear choice but the 10 or the 13.5 hasn't been. Same engine just different governor for desired hp @ increased rpm. The biggest factor seems to be the small prop aperture. There is a 3/8" clearance with the 12" prop. It should be 1.2". We are currently looking into 11" props, two or three blade. Always something!
We're interested in hearing about your engines, props, etc.

37

(1 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Hey Deb..

How much weight you got up there?

I have the cast stemhead off the boat and while it's off I would to address the angle at which the lines pass through the chocks. The bracket for the bow roller has a sharp edge where the lines go overboard.
I'm not sure if the bow roller is ss or chrome plated steel. If it's ss then there is no problem grinding this edge smooth. If plated then rusting will forever be a problem if I grind.

With the cast stemhead off the boat I going to grind the aluminum forestay tang off and replace with a 316ss plate with a welded tang. This new piece will be screwed to the stemhead casting with the existing four screws.   
These four machine screws screw  into an aluminum plate embedded deep in fiberglass beneath.

Checkout EQUINOX's refit at northernyacht.com

38

(9 replies, posted in Technical)

Yes, repower.
Replacing the Bukh with, probably, a Beta 10 or 13. The Nanni and Phasor is also in the running. I would like to hear from anyone who knows anything about these.The twin is very smooth and quiet.
VARUNA's Bukh DV8 was replaced with a Beta 10, Big improvement.
The Bukh is to exotic for me. That's fine for someone who drives and loves tinkering with his or her  vintage Peugeot, MG or Triumph but I drive a Toyota. I want something that starts when I want, doesn't drip oil, is economical and can get parts reasonably priced. 
Like the DV10 I understand they no longer make the one lung 10 hp Yanmar. Parts are and will be available, price aside,  for some time to come though.

39

(9 replies, posted in Technical)

Is there anyone out there parting out a Bukh DV10? I need a water temp. sending switch.
Does the switch for the DV8 fit the DV10?
This low hour DV10 is now looking for a new home.

40

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Stefan,
Thanx for the note on the genoa rails. I think these are the only things on deck that Tim is not removing probably for the reason you gave. I will email him.
I have to say that having someone else with his skills  do the refit, in the fraction of the time it would take me and best  of all to being able to watch over his shoulder via the web at 150 miles  away, is more then I could of  hoped for. She will be a beautiful co26.
Stay tuned.....

41

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

stefan-d,
You and all the other co26 people on this website have given me the energy for this project. Not the $, but the interest and energy.
My intention four years ago when I bought the boat was to do the refit myself. I could never have misjudged the time and cost of the project more. Just do it!  lLife is short.
I will very much appreciate any comments, suggestions, feedback, etc. during this project from all of you.
Bob Porter
s/v EQUINOX
Ipswich, MA

42

(19 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Ivanross,
If your buying a self steering new then presumably you have investigated the all the offerings.
I'm curious as to why you are selecting the Monitor. I'll be buying a ss unit  and would like all the information you or others could provide.
thanx...

44

(19 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

As I submit this Sam Powers is motoring VARUNA down the Chesapeake to Annapolis. He left Harpswell, ME Wed. 9/10/08 for the Bahamas. He repowered VARUNA last year with a 10hp Beta. Fits in where the the Bukh did.
He reports that it runs very smooth, quiet and fuel consumption is very low. Thats what I plan to repower EQUINOX with. Can I interest anyone in a low hour Bukh?

A J Rogers  Contessa doesn't have cockpit drains?
I'm giving some thought to adding two large cockpit drains on the vertical aft bulkhead of my cockpit. These would drain right out thru the transom covered with spring loaded doors or a one way valve of some sort to prevent following seas filling the cockpit. These drains would be to quickly drain a flooded cockpit to a point an inch or two above the cockpit sole where the existing sole drains would finish the job.
The cockpit of the JJ Taylor Contessa is a bit to big to have filled with small cockpit drains.

46

(17 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

In another month or so Tim Lackey will be cutting into my decks, from the top, to ":fix" the crackling. I mentioned the comments on this sight as approaching the problem  from above vs from below. We'll see what happens.
This is his first Contessa refit.

Stefan,
Did you have a double or single boottop?
I've seen a number of these boats with a single boottop. I don't know if the double stripe was an option or that owners just eliminated one in favor of two because of ease of painting.
Either one or two I understand you just brought the bottom paint up and over the boottop to meet the topside gelcoat. Do I have that right?

After reading this thread and preparing to Awlgrip my boat this fall/winter, a boat which I've not seen in the water, I would like to ask all about how the stock (factory)  waterline may compare with the actual waterline.
I'm going to repower with a slightly heavier motor, probably a Beta, and install a windvane. The Awlgrip cannot be in the water and therefore I may need to raise the waterline accordingly. My boat has a double boottop which I plan to elimante in favor of one.
Tell us your waterline stories . . . . .

If the water tank is ten gallons, empty your tank and take eighty pounds of weight and move it fore and aft in the boat to see how this effects trim.
In my refit I'm planning on using flexible tanks, perhaps wine bladders, to hold water in the bilge, in the bilge where the holding tank was, but won't be any more as I have pulled all the plumbing and am going for a porta-potti. I don't want my potable water in a f/g tank . . . .
The water in tank in the bow also serves as a watertight crash zone (excuse the terminology). With any kind of luck this watertight bulkhead, of sorts, might keep the boat a float if you should hit a log at night.

Hello Kevin
Welcome to the Contessa 26 brethren.
I to will be buying batteries for my 1986. I've read that some owners don't want their batteries in the bilge in case they get pooped and have some cabin flooding. I think the solution would be to have water and gas tight gel batteries in the bilge, keeping the weight low, so this is no longer a concern. I think she is tender  enough without putting the 100 to 200 lbs. of battery any place other then the lowest place possible.