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If you folks are re-working the fasteners, chances are you've revisited the sealing gasket around the hatch.  I need to replace mine - any advice about what to use there?  There are two layers of some sort of bevelled rubber stuff around mine and it doesn't seal well at all.

Hi Ian,

Your last bit is the technique I used with the halyard in the c-pit.  It just honked me off when I'd go back the c-pit to re-tension the halyard only to find the reefing ring had fallen off the horn.  Virago has the reefing locks at the gooseneck like yours and I'll leave them there.  I think what I'll do next season is the following:  1) have retaining clips welded onto the reefing hooks to keep the rings in place until halyard tensioned, and/or  2) Tighten the foot before returning to the c-pit to re-tension halyard (as you do).  I was always under the impression that one ought to tighten the luff before the foot when reefing (and I still think it's better) which meant a trip to the c-pit to tighten the luff, then back to the mast to tighten the foot.  I contacted a couple of sail makers, including the one that built my main, and they said it doesn't really matter which order you do it in, so that might remove one trip between the c-pit and the mast.  Being an anti-clutter advocate, I don't want to run the reefing lines back to the c-pit.  Another thing that helps is if I heave-to to reef if it's wavy - cuts out some of the drama.  Your method of tensioning the luff by lowering the boom is not possible on Virago as the gooseneck is fixed in position - all tensioning is done with the halyard or cunningham.  Another variable on Virago is that I still use the reefing outhauls as outhauls, I haven't put cheek blocks on the boom to make fixed clew positions for reefing.  The result is that I usually end up back at the mast to adjust the outhaul tension once the reef is in anyway - I believe in trimming my reefed main.

All I can say is I'm thankful for the bilge drain!  Yep, one of those long, flexible thingies for picking stuff dropped down household drains is handy, one of those things with a grabby spider-like end on it.  My little side cutters lived in the bilge for a few years before the light was just right one day and I spotted them.  Fortunately they were where I could grab 'em.  Unfortunately magnets don't work on stainless...Have considered stringing a fine net across that chasm in front of the engine, but will probably have to drop a few more things down there before I stop thinking about it and actually do it.  If I remember correctly, the NOOOO! I yelled down there actually echoed a bit.

Do you mean a tri-light that incorporates red, green and white?  Oops, missed the bit about reply to.....Will do.

Completely not related to this topic:  How did your winter lay-up go Jordan?  Any damage?  Up here just about everyone, including me, complained of more mold and mildew in our boats than ever before.  We're guessing it's because the winter was so mild and damp, not the usual long run of cold, dry weather.  If this is the new normal I don't think I'll cover the boat in the winter anymore in an attempt to encourage ventilation.  Either that, or cover it but leave the companion way wide open for the same intended purpose (some do that here with no ill consequenses).  Darned climate change - mold in my boat and foreign beetles threatening my trees!  I want my winter back!

Been reading old posts - the search function is handy.  I saw on an earlier tiller pilot thread, as well as in this one, that everyone has them mounted aft of the rear coaming, but Bilgeret had mentioned that, as an observation after the fact, he might have mounted his ahead of the coaming in the cockpit.  I was thinking about the same thing - has anyone out there done that?  I think I'll opt for mounting on the underside of the tiller, but where to put the power head is now the question.  Ian's comment re: better leverage traded off with reduced response time feeds into this line of thought.  Ian, does your unit work well for you in it's slightly forward position?

Hi Peter,

I put a post up about this just recently, but it was on the tail end of an old thread.  I'm in the process of building a tiny folding dinghy called an Origami.  I bought the plans from the same guy Christopher bought his from (Wooden Widget). Wooden Widget has a variety of very clever plans for folding dinghies or ones that you can break apart and nest halves one atop the other.  Anyway, the Origami is 6 feet long and about 3 feet wide when open.   It folds flat to a depth of about 6 inches so my plan is to keep it stored in the v-berth either layed flat or on edge along a wall (it's only 18 inches from keel to gunwhale).  I know this doesn't solve your immediate needs, but it's a good solution if you have the space to build a tiny boat.

For the past few years I've used a small sit-on-top kayak, an Ocean Kayak "Yakboard" as a dinghy that I store on edge on the deck.  It's been fun but it has a few drawbacks - one always gets a wet bum which sucks if the water is cold or you want to go to another boat for cocktails and you don't want to be sitting in a puddle.  It takes up valuable deck space, and it is no good for carrying stuff around.  The folding dinghy I can store below deck, I can stay dry when paddling, and it has a remarkable load capacity well over 300 lbs.

Back to the Yakboard:  It's advantages are that it is fairly short at 8', it is shallow so that it  is narrow when on edge, and it is very, very stable.  It's designed to use as a swim/scuba platform as well as a surf toy, so it is meant to be stable enough to climb back aboard from in the water.  This stability also means it's easy to get on and off from Virago - many small kayaks will dump you in a heart beat.  It's rotomolded plastic so I can bounce it off the rocks around here and all it does is scuff a bit.  I won't tow a dinghy of any sort any distance but for the short hops where I've towed the Yak, it has tracked brilliantly because it has a definite keel and two hard chines.  And it is effortless to tow - no loss of boat speed.

Christopher, I'd like to trade notes with you once your Fliptail is built to see how the two boats compare.  I bought my plans just before the Fliptail was introduced, but I think I would have chosen the Origami anyway - but I like the Fliptail!  I'd be really curious about your end results.  I'm at the stage where all the components are cut out and the keel, stem and stern assembly is complete , now I'm getting ready for paint and final assembly.  It's been easy to do so far even with my basic woodworking skills and I'm really looking forward to launch day.

Just had some more random thoughts about the Yakboard...another advantage of it is that it is a sealed unit so it has its own buoyancy - it can't get swamped and fill with water on deck.  Also, it has a slightly rockered shape so it actually wraps around the forward part of the cabin top quite neatly.  And it is shallow enough that the stern end of it jams in between the cabin top and the shrouds - all of this means that I actually lash it to the hand rail on the cabin top, not the stanchions, which I think is more secure.  It's not a bad way to go all things considered.

Erman told me to pull the ad, so consider it pulled.  I guess the unit sold.

Virago is 1985 JJT model and the tracks go from aft of the primary winches all the way to well beyond the forward lower shouds  - easily half the length of the boat I'd say (the middle half).  I still use hank-on sails and in the range of sails from storm jib to drifter I use all the track from aft of the winches (drifter) to just aft of the upper shrouds.  Nothing forward of the upper shrouds (cap shrouds) so far.   If you use a roller furled sail you may get away with a short track, and if you are going to use a short track you could consider adding fixed blocks where needed for a storm sail should you find you want one.