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The number of questions I have for Paul Kestle....   
What does he do for heat in the winter?
What appears to be  < 20 watt solar panel, is this enough?
Cooking/food choices?

Any chance he might join this forum?

John

Christopher

I took some measurements today, keep in mind that my pulpit and pushpit(rear pulpit) have been removed. So my measurements are for the bare hull.

Bottom of keel to top of cabin entrance(the famous co 26 hump) 104 inches, 8.6 feet.
To get this measurement I measured from the;
genoa track to the ground = 97.5 inches
genoa track to top of "hump" 25.5 inches
Bottom of keel to ground 19 inches

97.5 + 25.5 - 19 = 104 inches.

Trailer measurements;
Overall width(wheel fender to wheel fender) 8 feet
Tongue, the bow of the boat is forward of the tonque by 1 foot(not including the pulpit)
Stern of boat(not including rudder) is further back of the back-end of trailer by 18 inches(not including the pushpit)
Basically the trailer is shorter front and rear than the boat  but it is wider than the beam of the boat.

John

Adrian

Thanks for all of the work, these past 6 years. I find myself here often, if for no other reason than to browse old threads to learn something new.  Reality is, this website is about the only site I know of that is a  full collection of knowledge relating to our "little" boats, so please keep up the good work.

As to a a refurbishment project. I am far from that , but my boat is out for the season. A new barrier coat(osmosis is creeping in), Repairing rotten core on the side decks, painting the deck tip to stern  and few other projects are on the list. To be completed by seasons end.  If there is interest I can post more. Keeping in mind I am a novice, making it up as I go along.

John

Hello all

Things are progressing and stalling out at the same time.

One the positive side I was able to remove the old cutlass bearing and press in the new one, no problems.

On the down side I have a problem. The stern tube has a larger dia than the stuffing box tube. Both have lip that is larger than  the tube size. The stern tube is 1 5/8's dia with an 1 3/4's lip. The stuffing box tube is 1 1/2 dia with a 1 5/8's lip. This can't be normal can it?? I have no reason to think that this is not the original setup, with that said how to deal with this? My local supplier can get 1 3/4 stern tube hose which fits nicely over the stern tube but would be a loose fit on the stuffing box end. He can't get 1 5/8's stuffing box hose. Even if he could, getting it to fit over the stern tube would be tough given it's stiffness.

Thoughts?

seeadler  thanks for the heads up on holland marine, I will be contacting them to discuss my situation..

John

Ian

You are better at working with tight time lines than I am

I have several concerns about the existing shaft, but I am not sure if they are warranted;

- The shaft does have some wear at the point where the flax rubs against it, not a lot but some.
- More importantly. the shaft is a press fit on the flange,  there are two grub screws, one to hold the key in the slot the second to help hold the shaft to the flange. With that said it is my understanding that it is the press fit that holds the shaft to the flange,  the grub screws are secondary. Generally speaking a press fit is a one time affair, you lose holding power if you re-press the shaft to the flange.

So putting aside the wear in the shaft, am I cutting corners by trying to re-use the shaft and flange? I don't have an answer to this so at this point I am trying to get as much info as I can.

Any and all options welcome,
John

bertinol

I'm in Kingston so a bit too far for you. With that said you might trying hanging around your marina during drop in time. If your marina is like mine there will be a line up to raise the mast. If you introduce yourself to those in the lineup you may find you'll get plenty of people willing  to accept your offer of help and in turn help you.

A couple of thoughts;
1) Get the boat lined up with the crane, so that the mast base(on the boat) lines up with the crane, both forward and aft of the dock as well as "away" from the dock.
2) Remind yourself that the mast will not fall when it is in the air(assuming you have set your knots correctly) your main concern is keeping control of the base as you are hoisting. The higher the mast gets the less the danger. Again the mast will not fall in that you will be raising the mast at the spreaders which is not the middle of the mast. The higher you get the more the base of the mast wants to point down.
3) Leave your pride at home and ignore any spectators. No need to try and impress any one. Take your time, if you need to rise and lower the mast 3 times to get it right so be it.
4) Raise the mast slowly always keeping an eye on the  shrouds/stays. They tend to coil and catch on deck hardware.
5) The co26 is a narrow boat, so after you set the mast base on deck and start to attach the shrouds/fore and back stays keep in mind that that the boat will rock if you jump around the deck. Again slow and easy.

Good luck,
John

Just starting to get freezing weather??

Jeez I live in the wrong part of the world    Two more weeks till the boat show so it is not all bad.

Treat that plug like it is worth it's weight in gold, I am not sure if it is easily replaced. Does anyone know?
It is tapered, plumbers taper for lack the correct terminology.  So maybe a trip to home depot would find a replacement  but then again maybe not.

John

Jordon

You wrote
Drain the Water lock exhaust HOW

No sure if we are talking about the same thing, with that said;

My exhaust runs to a brown plastic box, for lack a better word, before exiting the boat. The back end of the box has a nipple that is covered with a rubber plug, held in place with a hose clamp. I remove it and allow the water to drain into the bilge.It is a pain to reach but can be reached. Note that the nipple/drain is at the back(aft end) of the box not the bottom(under-side)

Great list, I will add right or wrong. I do run anti-freeze thru the engine after draining the water completely.

John