Did you check for the number on the outside of the upper right transom?


(5 replies, posted in Technical)


(5 replies, posted in Technical)

A 20 x 30 tarp with a frame is what I have been using for 4 seasons

That has been modified.  The original is a three point mainsheet... plenty of photos on this site, but if you want to see in person, I am in South Jersey.

looks like a mod to run the lines aft.


(5 replies, posted in Technical)


(5 replies, posted in Technical)

I typically use a wet-vac with the filter removed to suck out any residual water, but if you want to use antifreeze, get the marine stuff that is less harmful to aquatic life.


(3 replies, posted in Technical)

yes 1/2 inch for all of them.


(3 replies, posted in Technical)

The original bulkheads on my JJT were 1/2" teak plywood.


(2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I think you uploaded the wrong picture.

By “wind-operated auto-tiller”, did you mean a wind vane autopilot?  If so, they are quite desirable.

It looks like the required work shouldn’t be an issue as long as you are willing to do it yourself.  Fiberglass does not really go bad with age and any cracks, if indeed they go past the gel coat can easily be remedied…  there are many tutorials on YouTube, etc.  Looks like she will clean up nicely and would be something to be proud of with some elbow grease.
It’s hard to tell from the pictures, but looking at some of the details on the deck, I suspect this is a pre-1984 changeover.  The anchor locker and mid-ship hatch may be a later addition.  You can tell for sure by the last four digits of the Hull ID number (month and date the boat was completed), located on the upper right corner of the rear of the transom.


(1 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

It will be on rear of the transom, upper right corner.

Fiona Rogers is looking into having a second run printed of this landmark book.  A few more orders are needed to meet the minimum production run, so please email Jessie Rogers at the factory if interested: jess.rogers@jeremyrogers.co.uk


(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Christopher- I have also considered installing one of these.  The cheap eBay ones (<$200) have received good reviews on YouTube.  My thought was to mount the smaller version at the bottom of the wet locker pointed aft and have the heat duct run aft through the bulkhead and make a left turn to blow warm air into the cabin from a vent under the sink.  It might be a long run for the heat duct to get to the cockpit, but I believe it should still work, though the larger version would be in order for that job.  The muffler and exhaust pipe for the diesel exhaust could go straight up through the cabin roof and would be hidden by the wet locker face. The heater fuel tank could be mounted in a variety of areas such as the above the heater in the wet locker, under the sink or in the V-berth.  My plan was to get a smaller tank and just refill it as necessary.
Of course all of this is speculative and if I do go this route, there would likely be modifications to this plan.


(2 replies, posted in Cruising)

Thanks Fessalo.  I’ve been in touch with him and apparently the eastward transatlantic crossing is just a shake down before turning west at the Canaries.  His circumnavigation is actually east to west.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)


(1 replies, posted in Technical)

Sounds great Deb.  Were you able to take any pictures during the process?


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Serwin- I'll post a video in the coming weeks and add a link here.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I did record some video and can take some screenshots.  What were you looking for exactly?
You will of course need to disconnect the shaft flange from the engine and remove the flange from the shaft to change the cutlass bearing.  If it’s the one piece type, they corrode rather quickly (within 1-2 years) and should be replaced once removed since it’s an interference fit and the flange hole becomes bigger from corrosion.  This doesn’t apply to the two piece flange.

Bnold5000 – Do you use the center bilge under the cabin sole for storage also? As Christopher said above it would seem like storage of heavy items like water would be best centered down low, so I’m planning to either build a tank or go the flexible bladder route under there.
Also, are you still planning a circumnav. in your CO26?


(3 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

Following.  I too have the same question.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It turns out that mine had no set screws and is simply a friction fit/ interference fit type.  The stern tube is flush with the back of the keel, so set screws would’ve been unlikely. 
It took some creativity, but after cutting several slots in the brass part of the bearing and peeling it back somewhat, I was able to pound it out from the inside using socket that just fit in the ID of the stern tube and a pipe against the socket.