Christopher- I have also considered installing one of these.  The cheap eBay ones (<$200) have received good reviews on YouTube.  My thought was to mount the smaller version at the bottom of the wet locker pointed aft and have the heat duct run aft through the bulkhead and make a left turn to blow warm air into the cabin from a vent under the sink.  It might be a long run for the heat duct to get to the cockpit, but I believe it should still work, though the larger version would be in order for that job.  The muffler and exhaust pipe for the diesel exhaust could go straight up through the cabin roof and would be hidden by the wet locker face. The heater fuel tank could be mounted in a variety of areas such as the above the heater in the wet locker, under the sink or in the V-berth.  My plan was to get a smaller tank and just refill it as necessary.
Of course all of this is speculative and if I do go this route, there would likely be modifications to this plan.

Thanks Fessalo.  I’ve been in touch with him and apparently the eastward transatlantic crossing is just a shake down before turning west at the Canaries.  His circumnavigation is actually east to west.

Youtube channel: … z9LnV-vvJg


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Vince P wrote:

Serwin- I'll post a video in the coming weeks and add a link here.

Serwin- Sorry this took so long, But I’ve just uploaded the first eight of my refit videos to youtube.  Here’s the one for the cutlass bearing:


(1 replies, posted in Technical)

Sounds great Deb.  Were you able to take any pictures during the process?


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Serwin- I'll post a video in the coming weeks and add a link here.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I did record some video and can take some screenshots.  What were you looking for exactly?
You will of course need to disconnect the shaft flange from the engine and remove the flange from the shaft to change the cutlass bearing.  If it’s the one piece type, they corrode rather quickly (within 1-2 years) and should be replaced once removed since it’s an interference fit and the flange hole becomes bigger from corrosion.  This doesn’t apply to the two piece flange.

Bnold5000 – Do you use the center bilge under the cabin sole for storage also? As Christopher said above it would seem like storage of heavy items like water would be best centered down low, so I’m planning to either build a tank or go the flexible bladder route under there.
Also, are you still planning a circumnav. in your CO26?

Following.  I too have the same question.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

It turns out that mine had no set screws and is simply a friction fit/ interference fit type.  The stern tube is flush with the back of the keel, so set screws would’ve been unlikely. 
It took some creativity, but after cutting several slots in the brass part of the bearing and peeling it back somewhat, I was able to pound it out from the inside using socket that just fit in the ID of the stern tube and a pipe against the socket.


(12 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Any tips on replacing a cutlass bearing?  The one on my 76 JJT seems to be pressed with no set screws and I’m assuming they all came that way.
I pretty much have the shaft out and wanted to see what others have done before getting out the hammer.

JordanH wrote:

Hmmm... what is your budget?

If you're hardcore, there are boats like Bika where they removed the engine entirely.  I wonder if their blog is still online?  You can reach out to them to see how they did it.

Their blog is still up.
Apparently they replaced their Contessa with a Heard 28 in Fiji I believe.  Nina is on the CO26 Facebook group if you want to get in touch with her.


(10 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

JordanH wrote:

I would not attempt to put it outboard, high and aft... that has a number of problems to it.  Keeping the weight central and low is much better.

By the time you have davits, tackle and the boat suspending, you are really leveraging a lot of weight back there.  Think of it like a teeter-totter...
(Also, if you have a few adults in the cockpit, I'd be curious to see how far out of the water your cockpit drains are once you add that weight back there.)

I’ve actually abandoned the idea of davits.  I posted this when I was planning to use an inflatable dinghy as a life raft, but have since acquired a proper Revere life raft (Valise model that will be stored in the starboard lazarette).   
The 53 pound inflatable dinghy (mentioned above) that I also acquired, will be stored deflated in the V-berth for longer passages and maybe towed for shorter ones.  It’s small enough that in a pinch I could also fit on the deck forward of mast, albeit it would be in the way of everything.

Thanks Jordan.  I’ve decided to build an integral tank under the port side quarter berth.  How big it will be remains the question. Right now I’m thinking about maximum of 35 gal / 130 liters and if necessary, carry more in 5 gal portable containers.
I’m in the middle of a major refit and will probably not get to that part until later this year.

Fessalo wrote:

No and I would not recommend doing it. You would lose the Venturi Effect whereby the water in the cockpit is sucked by the moving water along the sides. You noticed that the water drains much faster when the boat is moving compared as when standing still.

That makes sense. Thanks.

Has anyone relocated the cockpit scupper drains to go through the transom instead of the hull?

Yes, there are two screws going horizontally into the mast foot from the mast. I may put a little lubricant on the foot to make it slide on/off easier.

A view of the extended hinge.  Yes, I need to do some gel coat repair around the mortise.
I will rig some guy-lines to the mast when raising and will post more pictures of the process at that point.

Step 6:
From below the deck, I installed the other shims (not visible in the photo below) and a piece of teak over the shims to spread the load.  The teak may not be necessary since the load may have been already spread between the small plates on the two deck eyes.
Lastly, I cut off the bottom of the deck eyes and filed rough edges to be flush with the nuts.

Step 5:
Drilled holes in the base plate and matching holes in the mast foot.  Tapped threads in the mast foot holes and used stainless steel screws to attach the base plate to the mast foot.  I broke many drill bits trying to get through the stainless steel base plate.
Assembled the mast hinge to the deck and trimmed the base plate where necessary for a proper fit.  Note the shims under the deck eyes.

Step 4:
After drilling the four holes into the deck for the deck eyes, I did a dry fit of the hinge to the mortise on the deck and found the base plate needed to be slightly longer.  I found that the best solution to this problem was to shim the deck eyes on an angle towards the mast from the top and bottom of the deck.  I used some 1/8” slices cut on an angle from a HDPE cutting board (also left over from another boat project).

Step 3:
Using a 4” cutting disc on an angle grinder, I cut out the rectangle for the mast tenon on the base plate.  I also cut the side of the plate to form the hinge.  Filed and sanded all rough edges.
The deck eyes that I used are on the left.

Step 2:
Transferred the templated to the base plate.  Note the block of HDPE that I used in one of the following steps.

Step 1:  Drew up a paper template of bottom of the mast foot. The tabernacle hinge base plate is shown in the picture.  Disregard the drawing on the right, it was for plans that I abandoned.

I’ve put together a DIY mast hinge for single handed raising/lowering which is similar to the one in the tech notes, but utilizes parts I had on hand (no cost project).  This version is rock solid and I believe it will be a bit steadier at the hinge.
List of parts that I used:
1. Tabernacle hinge base plate 6.5” x 3.5” x 1/8" thick: I had this left over from another boat project, but I believe they are available from rig-rite as a top and bottom assembly.  I have also seen some on eBay.
I suppose one could just fabricate the base plate with some 1/8" stainless and use a vise to make the bends.
2. Two stainless steel deck eyes (U-bolts)
3. HDPE cutting board: used for shims since the base plate I had was a hair too short.
4. Four stainless steel screws
5. A small piece of teak to spread the load: May be overkill, but I did it anyway.