151

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

I am going to use little canvas bags that can loop over spare cleats for now, and will see how that works.  I usually coil my halyard and put beside the jam cleat, and then keep my genoa lines coiled beside me, with the active one around the winch and inactive one seat...when I am really heeled, or chaos happens, lines are on the cockpit sole, but it is just me sailing so never too crowded in cockpit. 

However, having yammered on about all that, I know what you mean: a plastic disc with an elastic loop and a ball....divinely simple...you could probably make some really cool ones yourself...

Geeeze, I can go on and on, can't I?! ;D

152

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I too like my non-pressured Origo 3000 2 burner stove.  I find it heats cabin with one burner while cooking with another...Kristin, you could secure in the sink, however, I just had a vision of your alcohol slopping out down the drain...and if it's on fire, might be a tad of a pulse-quickener when you least need it?!

If you are restriced by space, (not sure if you have the area I do for stove on stbd. side) I would recommend a single burner of some safe sort, the alcohol ones are good as all contained, no tank, and no priming, and just watch the flame the first few times you use it to get used to what the flame looks like.  I have never had a problem seeing the flame.  YOu can also hear the flame, so know when it's lit.  Easy to light too, no whoossh and loss of eyebrows.

With Windvane and pulpit, alas, she will be 28'....you are all right, the marinas don't like us little, self-sufficient guys...it's either a 24' slip (not a chance) or a 32'....and at $9.50 a foot, well, let's just say that it's even worse when Marina fees are due on April fool's day...who's the fool, anyhow?! ;D

154

(8 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

If it's this...you do not want to use it inside the boat, as it's a very bad thing! ;-)  I mean that because the flammable fuel (the propane) is not vented to the outside, but could sink to bilge and go boom.
You could use over the stern rail in cockpit, where I have my barbeque.

I am not a lover of propane at all, but I know some of the fellas have done ingenious venting of the little bottles.  (I beileve there is something you can set up.

Kristin; I am just updating "the West Coast" Contessa e-mail list (sorry Easterners! ;-)  and you were going to be on it, as I figure, you should be able to "zip" down here for the gala event?! ;-)
And yes, it's a sharp left, then straight down to the 49th paralell, then a left at Bowen Island, what could be easier?! ;-)  Love to see you there!

156

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Wow, you lucked out too, Adrian!

I am using the 3M #4000 UV (I believe that's the #)  it's removeable, but UV resistant, about twice the cost of what the other brands are, but so far seems ok, and I did it last summer....

I used a dental pick to remove the old stuff, then a bit of acetone to clean up nice - there's not core there, solid fibreglass, thank heavens,  so it goes quite quickly, as you do not have "Stefan D deck horror" lurking under that innocent white deck! ;D

157

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Thanks for the tip!  Yes, in fact the roll was gunwale to gunwale, and I was starting to think...what happens next?!
I just did some thinking as this was another first for me, I then realized I could head up a bit, which was in reality pulling in the main a bit, but if I want to continue downwind, I will practice just pulling in the main...I can't wait to get her back in the water again! ;-)

159

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

So one could use either a double headfoil system....or one that incorporated two headstays?

I know this topic has deviated from how old are your sails, but  in having said that, I would use my OLD r.f. genny and the new one at the same time for a 270% foretriangle, (2x135%) heh heh!!  THAT should get her going down wind....must say the first time I experienced the real "downwind roll" it was a bit nervewracking!

160

(12 replies, posted in For Sale)

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161

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Aaahh, I figured one would attach it to the adjuster (as I have) or similar.

Yes, send pics for the visually challenged...

162

(18 replies, posted in Site Support/Comments)

WOW!!! Way to go!

Shall we bold out the name column?!

163

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Adrian, how kind of you to even consider our rendezvous!

I too will try and make an East Coast one, but if I did, alas, it would be without my boat!

164

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Hi Guys: Re: Cody comment about tacking storm sail:

What I would like to do (in a perfect world) is have the roller furling stay forward of the wire stay - with the wire stay being a heavy-duty clip on tack, and obviously being clipped to the toerail (or mast) while using furling.  Then, when I storm came up, I would drop the furled sail, (or leave it furled if near home) clip in the "inner forestay", and then put up my storm sail (or 90% reefable)  Does that make sense, or am I dreamin'?!
Yes, I realize I'd have to feed my luff-tape headsail back in at a calmer time...but I would likely leave it down while offshore in what may be a crappy day/week, so I would then just put up my 110 once lighter airs came back.(and learn to use the cruising chute, ha ha!)  And then once it got really calm, feed r.furl genny back in and start all over?!

Bill, I think the tri would handle twin headsails better than our boats...not sure I would want to twin them....am feeling kinda chicken about them pulling the mast down?  Am I being a baby?

Suggestions?

By the way, our Can$ is really strong compared to the US....so practically anything is a good buy for us Canadians right now.

165

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Ahhh, you know of what I speak! ;-)

Yes, I was on the north tip of Bowen, actually, heading to Gambier, and the ferry comes out of Horseshoe bay, makes that angled turn to come into the channel between the two...and if you know the area, you also know how big they are and how fast they go!  20k if not more.

I looked before I started to reef, I started the reef, she started to tack, hove too and heeled over as I still had 100% of the genny out, I peered around mast and....here comes the ferry! 

We have alot of ferries, tugs, and tankers...you learn real fast to take bearings and be ready to give way, as well as listen to the traffic channel! ;-)  A leisurely lunch in a dead calm turns into a mad "turn on the engine and move" scramble real quick as you realize that supertanker has made its turn and is heading straight for you!

Trying to coax one knot out of her in a slight breath of wind does not get you out of the way fast enough...that's another important, likely the main reason I need an engine out this way....not to mention the minimum 1-3k tidal current in most areas...and up to 10k in the passes! ;-)

You used to live out this way?!

Are you coming to our rendezvous?!  It'll be the best in Canada, I'll bet, heh heh!

167

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Hi Camiel;

Where you say the "stays are fitted to the deck", I think you mean the "chainplates".  Yes, there is a little space around them that you have to put new putty (caulking) in to fill the little space - every year I do mine.   I clean out all old caulking and put in new stuff.  I have no leaks there at all when I discovered that it needed new caulking.

Too bad all that water and grease gets on your beer! (I think you are replacing "cutless bearing" - where propellor shaft enters the boat?!)  ;-)

Stefan D is right, who knows what went in to certain areas.  Some of us likely lucked out with the first owners who commissioned the boat - if they hung around the builder and watched things, by doing so, they unwittingly ensured at least some of it got done "right"! ;-) 
And yes, the key is a proper re-bedding:  if it leaks: take it right out/off and dry out the deck area and then rebed.

And Peter, your boat is looking pretty darn good too!  We can all see the work all of you guys have done on each of your boats, and Peter, you've done alot to yours!  So, you took off the rub rail, and those are the "rivets" holding the hull to the deck, and you are going to glass it all up?!  Good idea...once things are apart, may as well do as much as we can, hey?!

So Stefan, where are you now in your deck repair?!  Updated pictures anywhere?!

168

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Hmm,  I can't make out the little pictures on the article I found, and I can see it would be tough for a bigger mast, and I see the trouble one could get in!

Peter, you say:

"clip this at the pointed end to the back stay, the other side of the point to your mainsheet and use a winch to pull or to release"

So, the pointy end (!)  goes on the backstay (where exactly?!) And then a sheet to pointy end as well..and then pull?

I see many other methods use a pole/boom, etc to pivot the whole thing...but I like Peter's idea.  Peter, I think you stepped yours in both the water and on land? 

(superb mast step, Peter, I am very envious of your metal-making ability and tools!)

169

(28 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I am just starting to see what I need to do to adapt the Navik for my boat.  I will take lots of pictures, and will write a book...just kidding! ;-)

John, do you know  where the holes are on the Contessa you are looking at - you said it had a Navik?

The Navik I bought was on a canoe stern, so I will likely have to extend the arms a bit to meet our 48 degree transom angle.   Some sort of stainless sleeve bolted through or welded should do? 

Stefan, (and other metal-savvy guys) how would you extend a 1" stainless tube that will have alot of pressure at an angle?!

170

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

I am fortunate I only had one small "wet" area...below/around the port bow stanchion, the aft end of it is into cored deck. 

If you only have a little bit (but sounds like you don't) then the injection method is good...the key to keeping a small area small is to dry it out well before injecting....I dried mine out for a week with heat below it and a container over top to ensure no water nor condensation got in.    I dug out the wet stuff with a dental pick...like I said, I was lucky...

We have rain for weeks at a time here, 27 days straight last month, so the key here is to keep the boat as dry as reasonably possible if not using her, many blue tarps in marinas here full time.

Also, if you can, check your boat weekly for any water drips or leaks, find the source, (sometimes tough) and then fix that source, then make sure it stays fixed.

Here's what can happen with water:  My mast has skookum new inner wiring, (done by old owner just before I bought her in 2004) but where the wires came into the boat, water was sneakly running above the mast support beam, along the wiring for the head, and along the liner ledge under the chainplates, and down the bulkhead base, and ended up both under the teak & holly sole skin as well as under the sole liner to rest on top of the holding tank....would then slosh around when heeled inside and outside the liner! 
I found it by my curious nature: why was water there and where was it coming from.  I would mop it up daily, and after only a few months of ownership I figured it out...So, imagine what that water would do if left unchecked for years.....Í am of the belief that no, our boats should not leak, and if it does, I will find it! ;-)

Ok, sorry to always talk so much about  myself and my boat! ;-)

171

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

172

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Very interesting...saying baby stay and with accompanying adjuster, and is a useable forestay?!  Sounds like it would clip right to a second hole at stemhead, foregoeing the need for a heavy duty backing....however, not really moving CE aft...but does allow for emergencies, and for using hank ons....That's what I'll try, in heavy winds while still close to home first...drop the furled sail and put up my 90% reefable blade...

And yes, Christian, there is something to be said for having a simple rig and being able to quickly tack (or did I gybe?! ;-)  and get the heck out of Dodge when one needs too...and considering my boat had already done a 360, and then decided to heave to while I was reefing at the same time the ferry came around the corner made for some instinctive manuevers that I did not know I had...keep her moving and not towards the rocky shore 100 ft away...and by the way, she'll sail well enough with the headsail backed to save both her and yours truly's frightened rear end!  A headsail-driven boat is a good thing, for me anyways!
(By the way, it was my first overnight trip on her, and every minute was a new experience!)

I too am considering this as yes, it seems most reasonable.  Anyone else?

(Yes, I am a HAM in more ways than one, but have yet to transmit or receive as have not bit the bullet and bought a SSB/Shortwave/HAM etc. but did indeed pass my test by the seat of my pants!)

174

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

175

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Hi Camiel;

Your boat looks very nice from your pictures!

If anyone knows decks, it's Stefan!   By the way, I believe we have a link to your website here on this website!

Re: Stefan's boat's name: there is a great 1942 movie with Bette Davis called "Now, Voyager" where she travels on a big schooner, I believe.  The title comes from Walt Whitman's poem "The Untold Want", and a couple of lines in the poem read:  “The untold want by life and land ne’er granted,” it reads, “Now, voyager sail thou forth to seek and find.” 
Interesting, hey?! ;-)