My through hull fittings are under the cockpit floor next to the driveshaft.

That location concerns me because the valves are not readily accessable. 

To check on their condition or to close them if necessary, one must first remove the screws that secure the cockpit floor.

Also, they are not proper seacocks but rather they are simple mushroom fittings screwed into glvanized 90 degree elbows that are screwed into the ball valves.

I have been considering installing proper seacocks in the hull at the forward end of the compartments under the cabin seating.  That would enable to inspect and operate them from inside the cabin.

The other option I am considering is installing them on the transom.  That would allow me to inspect and operate them from the cockpit.

Any thoughts on these, or other options?

27

(9 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Perhaps we could approach a reputable builder about a group buy of several Contessa 26 trailers.

Any interest in that?  If so, I would volunteer to help coordinate the process.

28

(9 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I am seriously considering purchase of a new trailer for my Contessa to move her from Florida to Minnesota.

Triad Trailers LLC makes a galvanized trailer that is custom built for the Contessa 26 and seems to have all the right features for safe road travel ... at a price (approx $7,000 USD configured with electric disc brakes and torsion axles).  I have attached their quote sheet.

Have any of you had and experience with Triad Trailers LLC or, for that matter, any other quality road trailers suitable for the Contessa 26?

I am willing to pay for quality and, if I do buy a trailer, I want it to be the best available.

Any advice and recommendations would be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

29

(2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Another opinion:

A sliding hatch will let in more light and it will provide easier access at the dock or in calm water.  However, it can also let in more rain and seawater during storms.

Sliding hatches that are designed without a protective turtle can be damaged and even lost when hit hard by solid water.  For that reason I believe the keyhole is far safer than a sliding hatch, at least one without a turtle.

Regarding access, I am 6'6" tall and I can go in and out through the keyhole on my C 26 as quickly and easily as I could slide the hatch forward, climb out, and slide the hatch back on the Catalina I sailed for 10 years before getting my Contessa 13 years ago.

I will agree that for calm water sailing and sitting at the dock a sliding hatch has its advantages because when left open and forward it is easier to go below and there is better ventilation.  However, for sailing I prefer the safety and security of the keyhole design.

Some of the Contessa clones have sliding hatches so that must be what some buyers want but there are good reasons why some of the best bluewater boats have a keyhole companionway design.

That said, the modified Contessa looks nice and there is no reason why it should not be as good as any other sliding hatch design.

Also, at $3,200 unless there are some major problems with the boat it is a great bargain, almost free.

30

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

That is a good alternative route.

Right now I am considering sailing her north but, because available time might be a problem, I am also considering the possibility of having her transported over land.

My third alternative, and least attractive, is to sell her here in Florida before relocating.

Thanks

31

(4 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I may be relocating from Sarasota, Florida to Duluth, Minnesota and I would like to consider having my Contessa 26 towed on a fancy hydraulic trailer by a professional.

I have a trailer that I use for taking the boat to the marina and home but I am intimidated by the prospect of a cross country trip.

Also, my trailer is not set up for highway travel and my van might not be up to the task.

Timing is not so important to me so I might be able to be the return load for a hauler bringing a Canadian vessel to Florida for the winter.

Any recommendations?

32

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

Well, I just looked at the Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades section and saw the reference to Steve Stewart's forward-tilt mast raising system.

It looks a lot like what I was considering.

33

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

Jim,

I have been looking at Klackso's twin A frame idea. 

It does look like a good approach.

Maybe I'll have to measure up my Contessa for a set of such frames.

Also, because the tabernackle has provisions for a pivot bolt on both the fore and aft side, I have been considering placing a pivot bolt in the forward position and tilting the mast toward the bow using the boom as a gin pole. 

The forward-tilt approach would also require A frames or some stout above-deck pivot points for stabilizing lines, possibly the halyards, to keep the mast and boom in line but the compression forces would be handled by the boom.

I think that the main advantage of a forward-tilt method is that the forestay, mainstays, forward lower stays, boom, and mainsheet would remain in position.  Only the aft lower stays and the backstay would be disconnected.

Upon hoisting, the mast would become stable as long as there was tension on the mainsheet and the rig would become fully functional and tuned as soon as the aft lower stays and the backstay are reattached.

However, I have never seen it done using the forward-tilt approach I described above so I am searching for advice.

Thanks,

Dave

34

(5 replies, posted in Cruising)

I live in Sarasota Florida and may be moving to Minnesota.

I am considering sailing up the eastcoast and then west through the Great Lakes to Duluth, MN.

To do this I will have to lower my mast in the St. Lawrence and raise it again when I enter the lakes.

Have any other members developed a mast raising and lowering system that a single hander can use for a trip such as this?

I am considering tilting the mast forward using the boom and mainsheet.

Advice will be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave

Gingerbread,

The Contessa 26 is light enough that it can be kept on a trailer and hoisted into and out of the water like the racers do with their J boats.

If your sailing club has a hoist, that can cut cost of ownership by a large margin.

My 1984 C 26 #320 is below the 6,000 lb. weight limit for the hoist at our club and it goes in and out easily.

Also, where are you located?

Sorry about my late reply.  The lights have been sold.

I have a new Aqua Signal Series 25 masthead / stern light for sale.

The Aqua Signal lights were specified as original equipment on the JJT Contessa 26.

Coast Guard approved.

New cost: $29.50 USD

Will sell for $14.75 USD

if interested, please reply to aultfather@msn.com

I will reply with photos, etc.

38

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

The sextant is no longer available.

39

(1 replies, posted in For Sale)

As new Davis Mark 15 Master Sextant in original packaging. 
Includes fitted hard plastic protective carrying case.
$165 USD.
Please reply to aultfather@msn.com

40

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I am 6'7" and my Contessa 26 #320 has standing head room, on deck.