Problem solved........Tech support just got back with me.  Here is what they said.


Hello Brian

The wiring with the pressure switch is a option, the negative terminal is connected to ground OR a normally open oil pressure switch.

You may connect the hour meter negative terminal to the same engine pressure switch if it functions as described in the instructions. If the pressure switch used on the dummy light is normally open (no electrical signal), and closes when the engine is running, than this pressure switch can be used with the hour meter. The purpose is to have the engine hours count when the engine is running not when just power is provided.

Thank you,

Marcin Maleszka

Technical Support Representative

Veethree Electronics & Marine LLC


I hope this helps anyone else with the same question.      B

I'm about to re-wire the mast on my Contessa.  The existing wiring harness had a hot wire going to each light (anchor, steaming, spreader, etc.) and then used the aluminum mast as the return conductor.  Is this the standard way to wire a mast?  It seems like it might dramatically increase the risk of severe damage to the entire electrical system if you were to receive a lightning strike on the mast.  Wouldn't it offer a much reduced risk of electrical system damage if a positive and negative conductor was run up the mast for each light and the mast was not used as a conductor?  Thanks in advance for anyone who weighs in on this topic!!!  Cheers,  Brian

Hello Everyone,
I recently purchased an HF radio that I am bringing along on my circumnavigation.  I'm planning on hoisting a 20 meter dipole antenna on the mast and using the radio to send radiogram messages to family and friends via the maritime mobile network and the national traffic system.  I'm interested in building an effective ground plane in the boat so that I can switch over from the dipole antenna to an insulated backstay antenna with a tuner (so that I can used other ham bands besides just 20 meters for transmitting).  I'm wondering if anyone else has built a quality and effective HF ground plane in their contessa and if so, what the details of this installation are?  Perhaps there is some sort of copper strapping that has a sticky side to it that can simply be peeled back and stuck down to the inside of the storage lockers.......and then all connected together in some relatively painless way?  Cheers,  B

The installation instructions for the Engine Hour Meter I just purchased, show that you can hook the ground of the meter to an engine oil pressure switch on the engine so that the meter only runs when the engine is running.  Makes sense.  But, as you can see from the instructions in the photo I have attached, they don't show any other wires coming off of the oil pressure switch.  Their diagram makes the engine oil pressure switch appear to be dedicated solely for the engine hour meter.  My question is this.  Can you simply just connect this ground wire from the hour meter to the oil pressure switch that already has a wire coming off of it and going to the engine oil pressure dummy light.  Thanks much.  Brian

Hello Everyone!  I recently purchased a OGM Tri-Color/Anchor/Strobe light for the masthead.  I also purchased the mounting bracket that is made for it.  It is not clear to me how to mount it though as the bracket is not long enough to mount it to the side of the mast below the casting that holds the pulleys for the halyards without the light fixture being to low and obscured by the mast.  And it looks like a difficult proposition to try and mount the light on the casting that contains the halyard pulleys because of the issue of the mounting fasteners interfering with the halyards, etc.  So far, my best idea is to mount a piece of aluminum flat stock about 3/16" thick to the mast and then mount the OGM bracket to that.  Does anyone have any suggestions about this light mounting?  I'm eager to hear from you veterans before I start drilling holes!  Cheers  Brian

131

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Thanks for your replies on this question.  You guys have been very helpful to me as I get my boat ready.  I am very grateful for your input.  Brian

Hello Everyone!

I am still wanting to purchase a radar detector for my boat.  I imagine that there is a small electronic device (like the one you might have on the dashboard of your car) that draws a very low amount of electrical power while it scans for any marine radar signals.  And if it picks up a radar signal, it sounds an alarm. 
I want this device so that I can use it to help make me aware of the presence of ships while I am trying to get some sleep while crossing oceans as a single-hander.  I cannot seem to find a device like this?  Does anyone know if there is such a thing for sale?  And if so, where to get it and some brand info. would be a big help.  Thanks much.  Brian

133

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Hello Oliver,

Thanks for the reply.  I found something called "flag clips" at West Marine Online (Manufacturers:  1. Tigress  2. Du Bro).
Are these the clamps you are referring to? 
These clamps that I found didn't mention being used on a backstay........only tensioned halyards, etc.  And it looks like if the backstay was clamped between a metal hook and a plastic spring retainer, that there might be some metal abrasion to the backstay.  Your thoughts?    Thanks,  Brian

134

(3 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Hello Everyone!

These are the sails I got with my Contessa:  Mainsail (with 2 reefs); Storm Jib; 80% Jib, 110% Jib, 150% Jib, Spinaker.

I'm concerned about not having a Tri-Sail for distant cruising.  When I asked the previous owner about this, he suggested that I buy a heavy-duty, small, double-reef mainsail.  He said that my sailing performance would be way better than if I had a tri-sail. 

I just got done reading Larry and Lin Parday's book about their cruise from the med. back to Victoria via the Suez and Japan, etc.  Near the back of the book, Larry comments about the common practice of using a small, heavy-duty mainsail instead of a tri-sail.  He said that this is only for a CUTTER and not a SLOOP (like the contessa) and that if you tried to do this with a sloop, that the rig would get out of balance and it wouldn't work very well. 

Does anyone know what the right answer for this issue is?  What are the proper sails to have for heavy weather sailing on a contessa?  Your advise will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks much.

135

(8 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I want to mount my "stars and stripes on the backstay so that it is up and out of the way of the monitor windvane.  When I look for some sort of kit for sale that is intended for this purpose......I'm not finding much out there.  Does anyone know how to do this?  Thanks much!

Perhaps the iron keel doesn't begin until deep down below the floor of the bilge and a few holes drilled only an inch and a half deep would only be into solid GRP and nowhere near the iron keel.  If this were true......than wouldn't a few shallow holes cause virtually no risk to providing a pathway to the corrosion of the keel material?  Does anyone know about this?

Hello Everyone!

I think I've decided to go with 2 AGM batteries for the house bank and 1 AGM battery for the starter battery (sealed -- no possibility of acid leaks or hydrogen gas or other noxious fumes etc. and are advertised to do a good job starting and as deep cycle batteries.  They also have very little internal resistance and can be recharged quickly with a large alternator).  Then, I simply place them in a plastic hold-down trays that are attached to the floor of the bilge like the tray I've included a photo of in this post.  The trays look rigid and they are cheap and would be easy to install with a couple of fasteners (small lag bolts, I guess).  Before I go ahead with this plan, I only have one reservation.

I'm concerned about drilling holes in the floor of the bilge for the battery tray fasteners.  Does anyone know of any reason why I wouldn't want to drill holes in the floor of the bilge?  I'm concerned that this might provide a pathway for corrosion to the iron keel material, etc.

Thanks,

Brian

138

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Ian,  that is very interesting and helpful to hear about your anchoring equipment.  Thanks for your input.

I was wondering if you veterans could take a look at all of these fitting and help me decide whether I should retain them ALL as I begin to enter the phase of my re-fit where I'm putting the boat back together.  It seems like most Contessa 26 boats I see photos of have very few if any fittings on the transom and this boat in comparison seems like it has A LOT of fittings. 

Here's is an explanation of the ones on the TRANSOM:
1. Upper left hole is for the diesel fuel tank vent
2. The small hole below and to the right of the fuel tank vent is the vent for the vacuum breaker associated with the engine sea water cooling system.
3. The upper big hole on the left is for the electric bilge pump outlet
4. The lower big hole on the left is the engine exhaust
5. The side decks drain through hoses connected to a tee that is on the inside of the big hole on the right
6. The red dots are the monitor windvane lower mounting bracket locations
7. The little holes on the centerline are for the upper rudder gudgeon

Explanation of the ones on the AFT HULL:
1. The drain at the top of the boot stripe on the starboard side is the manual bilge pump outlet
2. the two drains, right above the prop on each side, are for the cockpit drains and utilize crossed over hoses from left to right and vise versa.

Question examples:  Is it standard to run a hose all the way from the vacuum breaker on the cooling system to the transom?  Do the bilge pump drains seem to be well placed?  Is the big drain on the transom for the side decks a standard placement/good design?  etc.    thanks for reading!!!      ps -- I'm getting close to the end of my big question list  smile

I just got my Rocna 10 (22#) anchor the other day.  I'm planning on going with an all-chain anchor rode that is stowed in the compartment forward of the V-berth.  I was hoping to get some recommendations on size chain you would use?  And also, I was thinking about getting 200 ft and does anyone know if there would be room in the bow compartment for that much chain?  And I'd also be interested to know how you are rigging a snubber for an all chain rode (maybe a heavy rubber shock cord would do the trick)?   Thanks,  Brian

141

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I was wondering if anyone could give me some advice about general maintenance and upkeep of this stuffing box that I have in my boat?  I would also be interesting in some make and model info if anyone seems to recognize this particular unit.  And I'm also wondering what "spares" I might want to bring along for this item for a long trip (circumnavigation)? 

Thanks again for all the advice.  Its been a huge help to me as I get my boat ready!

I've been having some difficulty finding a depth sounder that has an in-hull transducer that is simply glued on the inside of the hull and does not require a through hull fitting.  I don't want to drill another hole, especially for a plastic fitting.  The Raymarine ST-40 looks good but they only seem to offer a through-hull transducer.  Garmin has a simple in-hull/puck transducer that simply glues to the inside of the hull but doesn't seem to offer a simple depth display like the ST-40. 

Does anyone know of a simple depth sounder with an in-hull transducer?

143

(7 replies, posted in Technical)

I was shopping for a Firdell Blipper at Landfall Navigation and it says that they have been discontinued.
It appears as though the company has stopped making them.  Does anyone know about this?

I'm wondering if there is anyone out there who as this Universal Atomic 5411 2 cylinder 11 HP diesel engine in their boat and can advise me as to what fuel economy I might expect.  I've got an 11 gallon tank and am wondering how many miles/hours I might be able to get per gallon/tank etc. 

Planning on running this boat down the Mississippi River to New Orleans and will be using the motor almost exclusively when I'm on the rivers.

Thanks,

Brian

145

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Christopher, In answer to your question, the one hull anode I have is through bolted and a big wire runs from the bolt to a big copper grounding plate that the engine ground is also connected to (looks like to me that it is connected to the entire electrical ground system of the boat, battery included).  When I was trying to remove it today, I broke it but I think that this is just as well as it was pretty severely eroded and the bolts also seemed to be bedded rather well in compound and their electrical connection to the anode itself looked pretty iffy to me. 

I take it that this is so the anode will be electrically connected with the prop through the engine, transmission and prop shaft and therefore wear away instead of the prop?

And how do you seal the bolts of the anode without losing the electrical connection? 

Ian, Where do you electrically connect your hanging anode when not underway?  to the battery negative?

It looks like my anode is the small pear shaped one in the WM catalog.   And my engine (the Univ 5411) doesn't have an anode.  It was before engine design got that clever.

Seeadler,

That sounds like a very intriguing idea.

I'm not familiar with the product (self expanding foam liquid) though.  Where do you get this stuff and what is the brand name, etc.?

147

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Here's the photo

148

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My boat has one hull anode thats 3 3/8" long (see photo).  This boat has spent most of its life in fresh water on Lake Huron and now I'm getting it ready for salt water worldwide.  I'm not sure how many Anodes I need or how big they should be but I'm guessing that this one anode I have on here now, isn't enough protection from the ills of electrolysis.  I would greatly appreciate some guidance on this issue.  Thanks.

My garboard plug is a standard plumbing drain plug.  It makes me uneasy though because the square part that you put a wrench on to turn it sticks out quite a bit -- its easy for me to imagine some sort of debris being able to give it a pretty good knock and then having a leak issue that could potentially sink the boat.  I'm considering cutting it way down and then cutting a screw driver slot in it.  I'd appreciate some other garboard plug opinions.  thanks

Another issue for me is that I need to get heavy things forward as much as possible.  I already have an engine (Universal 5411) that is a bit heavier than the original design and more weight aft would be a problem.  I'm starting to think that Gel Batteries would be the way to go for a circumnavigation because they are sealed with no gases or acid issues.  Yes, more expensive, but probably worth the extra money when your in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
And Once again, if anyone knows where to buy these fiberglass battery trays like in the photo, I'd love knowing where.  Thanks.