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Michael,

My mainsail specs are:  Luff; 27'     Foot; 9' 8"   Leech; 28' 6" 
(give or take an inch either way on all dimensions)

John

Michael

I haven't forgotten about you, just got busy in the last couple of days. I'll measure up the mainsail by the weekend and post the results.

John

Brian

I am playing devils advocate with this post as I don't pretend to be overly knowledgeable on the subject. With that said;

I have always understood that the lower shrouds should be tensioned enough that they are tight on the windward side of the boat but just slightly slack on the leeward side of the boat. Meaning when on a port tack, reaching,  my starboard tack lower shrouds are just slightly loose. Not flapping around but loose enough that they have no pull or strain on the mast.
Point being if the starboard 5/32's lower shrouds in the above scenario where tensioned to 350 lbs, they would be too tight. Or if 3/16's in size, 500 pounds of tension would again be too tight. 

If the above is true then the tension on either 5/32 or 3/16's lower shrouds would be light enough to have little to no impact on mast/deck compression, as the upper shrouds would already be tensioned far more than the lowers.

Again, I stand corrected, but I suspect that 3/16's lower shrouds may require slightly more tension than 5/32's to reach the "just tight enough" scenario but given that the chain plates for both upper and lower are identical in size and bolted to the boat in identical fashion I suspect the extra tension is irreverent.

I would be interested in hearing what the designer has to say on the subject.

I hope I am no completely off base as I have a set of brand new shiny 3/16's lower shrouds sitting on my couch just waiting for the snow to melt  

John

No sure about manufactures specs but the standing rigging on my boat was original until  last and this year. I am just finishing up replacing it all over the last two winters.
It was;
3/16 for upper shrouds and front/back stay.
5/32 for lower shrouds

replaced with;
3/16 for upper shrouds and front/back stay.
3/16 for lower shrouds

I use a loos tension tool to set tension on upper shrouds and stays. I can't recall what the tension should be. With that said the tension is not(in general sense) determined by the boat but rather by the dia of the rigging(IMHO). I just follow the guide that came with the loos tool.

I moved up a size on the lower shrouds not for strength but for simplicity as it made sense to keep them all the same dia. I ran this idea by my rigger and he agreed after I explained that the chain plates are all the same size and bolted onto the boat in the same fashion.  Meaning that the fibreglass mount for the lower shroud is of the same construction as the upper shroud chain plate mounts. Not that it matters too much as the lower shrouds have less tension to begin with.

John

Pete

I can't give you a definitive answer to your question, my boat has two types of turn buckles on the lower shrouds. I can tell you that the lower shrouds are smaller in dia than the upper shrouds/fore and back stays. Interestingly, on my old rigging(that has been replaced) The turnbuckle that fits my upper back stay is the same size as the turnbuckle that fits my lower shroud. Both in turnbuckle length and the dia of the threaded hole that is turned into the threaded swaged stud. What I am trying to say is that the turnbuckle is inter-changeable on both my lower shrouds and all other standing rigging.

If it helps I can get you some sizes later in the week. Wire dia, turn buckle lengths etc.

John

Jordon

I wish I could give a better answer than I am but life gets in the way some times.
Looking back thru emails with Lee sails I bought the sail ready for 2010 sailing season, so;
2010 - happy with the results, see my response above.
2011 - again happy with the results.
2012 - boat stayed out of the water for the season as I tackled some long over due projects.
2013 - boat launched , I have sailed it < 6 times. Work has taken over my life

So, over all I have been happy with the purchase, it is a well made sail that has held it's shape(for the 2 1/2 sailing seasons I have been able to use it) and I have no regrets.  Would I do it again verses a local loft? Hard to say, but nothing in my limited experience with the sail suggests you would be dissapointed if you went with Lee sails.
For what it is worth, at the beginning and end of each season I have closely inspected the sail for defects, frayed stitching etc, putting a side a few dirt marks the sails looks brand new.

Wish I could say I have put many hours on the sail over the last 4 years and could give you a better answer. Ask me next year after the season is over, hopefully I have quite a few more sailing hours under my keel.

John

aarsballe

Some measurements for you.
1) The two lower cables that make up the split back stay =  187.7 cms each. That is the from center to center of clevis pin hole at each end.
2) Upper back stay 873.5 cm, from center of the cleves pin hole at the top of the cable to the bottom of the threaded stud.
3) Turnbuckle 8.9 cm.
4) Threaded fork 6.6 cm  from center of the clevis pin hole to top of threaded stud.
4) Triangle plate that connects the 3 cables
    two upper sides = 2.9 cm
    one  bottom side = 2.5 cm
    measurements from center of clevis pin to center of clevis pin.

I have tried to be as accurate in my measurements as I could. Measuring the upper back stay accurately was the tough part given it's length but I am confident that I have it right.

With that said, what parts of the back stay are you missing?
The whole assembly?
Just the two cables that make up the split?

John