Interlux and the local boat yard independently told me I'd need to hire a "salt blaster" at a cost of about $600. I would also require an environmental tent to keep the noxious powder under control, and a full environmental suit and mask. These anti-fouling paints are truly toxic.

And then, once I removed every last trace of Bottomkote XXX, I should apply two coats of Interlux 2000 primer and three costs of VC-17. After the first year, I could just wash down with detergent and water and apply one coat of VC-17.

Then you're good for a one coat of VC-17 a year for the next 20 or so years. What bliss!

I wanted to scrape off my old Bottomkote XXX paint and replace with VC-17.  Unfortunately, Interlux confirmed what I had already been told.  You CANNOT paint over Bottomkote XXX. You have to blast off every trace, an unpleasant and expensive job.  I tried paint remover and sanding.  Both were unpleasant and injurious to my health.  I was coughing up blue paint for an hour afterwards, even though I was wearing a mask.


Hi Oliver,
Unfortunately I am afraid to say, but due to the fact that Bottomkote XXX is such a soft eroding paint, it will make compatibility very very difficult as it essentially will be an unstable base. Based off of the fact that it is such an unstable base, you should not apply VC17 overtop as the movement of the underlying layer will cause splitting/cracking/peeling. Therefore and unfortunately I would recommend that you do not apply VC17 overtop of Bottomkote XXX as such an application will result in a gigantic mess. I would strongly recommend that you remove all traces of Bottomkote XXX from the surface to expose the underlying bare fiberglass surface and then apply VC17. As for any primers, if you are looking to achieve some moisture barrier protection, then yes they will absolutely be beneficial and InterProtect 2000E. However if you aren't interested in adding any moisture barrier protection, then there will be no need for any primer.

I apologize for any inconvenience and hope this helps!

All the best,
Jay Smida
Interlux Yacht Finishes

128

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Sounds like lovely sailing... I assume everybody has read Erskine Childers (Riddle of the Sands) and those great Maurice Griffiths sailing stories from the 30s.
My uncle took me sailing from his home in Essex back when. He let me steer and I promptly bounced over the Goodwin Sands on a falling tide..
He was a very exciteable guy!

129

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

So Ian, where exactly are you? Sounds like the Solent????
Sure isn't Lake Ontario!

130

(1 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I wouldn't worry. The plug is usually way back on the boat and most things would just bounce off. Besides, the propeller makes a way better target if you plan on hitting something.

Make sure that "standard plumbing drain plug" is bronze, and bolted into a bronze plate with bronze screws, Teflon tape and lots of 5100 sealer. You don't want a galvanized steel plumbing bolt and you don't want dissimilar metals because of galvanic action.

Slotted screws can be hard to remove if left for too long without the Teflon tape.

131

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

quick tip that a lot of people don't know...
use a magnesium anode for fresh water and zinc for the sea.

As for size, try one and see how long it lasts. You can don a swimsuit and add another. I hear of anodes lasting a month or a year depending on the local chemistry.

You want to keep the batteries low and on the midline of the boat because they are heavy and augment the ballast.
A good electric bilge pump should keep the water levels low. And if it fails or can't keep up, a hand-operated Whale gusher is a good idea. If that fails, keep lots of flares handy!

For the winter, drill a drain hole in the bottom of the bilge and install a bronze garboard plug to keep the boat dry and free from rot. It's amazing how many people don't do that.

I'd just pick up another fibreglass battery box and fibreglass it in, with a strap over the top to hold the battery in place. Or build your own battery holder with wood and fibreglass it in place.
It'll work fine.

The ever-efficient Ron Jenkins replied to Jordan's request within the hour. He also sent me a copy of the Notice of Race and a voluminous copy of the picky regs, totalling 650 kbytes. I have asked Adrian to load it onto the forum, if poss. If not, contacrt Ron or me and we will send you a copy.
cheers, Oliver


from Ron:
I will look into the safety requirements involved in the distance races for
LYRA. I know that in the case of the Lake Ontario 300, there are stringent
requirements; I would doubt that LYRA has them to the same degree, but that
is certainly a consideration. I'll start with a look at the sailing and
registration instructions for the LYRA 2010 event, which I know are still
online from that time.

But LYRA is not just distance racing -- there are also 2 or 3 days of
course racing (depending on the fleet's preference). These races are going
to be held around marks off Ontario Place/Humber Bay, and they would not
have difficult safety stipulations.

Without PHRF ratings, and with enough boats for a fleet start in the course
racing, Contessas could race level. I'm sure that within the fleet there
would be quite a range of competitiveness in the boats, and that racing
level would mean that slower boats would inevitably trail behind the faster
boats, but that would probably be a situation not remedied by putting the
boats up against a rating rule in any case. I personally would rather race
level given the chance, and let the chips fall where they may, than have a
rating rule divide a class into separately-rated boats.

The LYRA regatta is designed in a modular fashion, with separate entry fees
for each long distance race, and another for the course racing. The
distance races are envisioned as a Founder's Cup race from Rochester to
Toronto, a Centennial Cup race from Youngstown to Toronto, then two
versions of the Freeman Cup race (long and short) starting and finishing
probably at the Dufferin buoy, then the course racing. Preliminary details
are at lyra2013.com, a web site I am currently assembling. Courses will be
most likely ratified at the LYRA AGM, to be held this weekend at the NYC.

Cheers,

  -- Ron Jenkins

**********************
Cell: 647-406-1226

138

(6 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Hurricane Sandy had other unexpected consequences.

A friend is marooned in New York harbour, waiting to deliver a boat to Bermuda. But he can't leave because more than 100 shipping containers washed into the harbour during the storm and many are still floating just below the surface.  Woudn't want to hit one of those at 6.5 knots!

139

(6 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Don't know for sure, but the newspapers said the captain was highly experienced and in constant contact with the coast guard. He was apparently trying to go around the storm and didn't realize how big it was.

I also noticed that the ship had only 17 crew. That seems way below the minimum necessary to run a 50-year-old, three-masted, square-rigger tall ship.

It's also one of many tall ships that have gone down through the years. There was a ship off Brazil that was hit by a microburst with the portholes open. The water streamed in through the open windows and sunk her in minutes. The Baltimore went down in a storm in mid-Atlantic a few years before that, and a quartermaster was washed off deck when steering another ship without a safety line. The original Bluenose went ashore on a Haitian reef.

Perhaps we don't realize just how dangerous ships were in the days before safety became an issue and labour codes wre enacted to protect the crews.

The inquest will be worth watching.

The guys in Edmonton are very good. I got a collection of filters by mail in a few days, at a good price.

Industrial Engines Ltd
780 484 6213

14355 120 Ave NW
Edmonton, Alta

141

(3 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Contessa weather!
Why does everybody haul so early?
This is the best time of year to sail (well, maybe not today!)

142

(6 replies, posted in Front page news)

There's an interesting book on the history of folkboats in the Toronto Public Library system. You can order it online and it arrives in your local branch three days later.

The Folkboat story: from cult to classic-- the renaissance of a legend
Loibner, Dieter, 1961-
Book, 2002. xvi, 236 p.

It's not a great book, but there's some very interesting early history.

This is an interesting discussion....

Ian:
How about if the cockpit drains cross over to the high side.
And, the bilge pump hose goes as high as possible under the gunwale in the centre of the boat -- way above the water line.   
A vented loop is a good idea too.
So are doubled stainless steel screw clips. A lot of them have stainless clips and carbon steel -- ie rusty - screws.

By the way, the first thing I did on my 1975 Contessa was to install seacocks on the cockpit drains. I later discovered that many of the older boats never had seacocks (Help!). I also replaced all the Canadian Tire bathroom fixtures that a previous owner had used as seacocks elsewhere in the boat.
Proper seacocks are a good idea!

I wouldn't put another throughhull in the boat -- but if you do, make sure it is above the waterline, with a big loop in the pipe that goes as high as possible. Otherwise, you'll siphon water into the boat. Not good.
My pump outlet goes into the cockpit drain pipe through a T-junction. That cuts the number of throughhulls.
One problem. Most of the standard electric bilge pumps are immersion types. They sit in the bottom of the bilge and there's no way to get a standard immersion pump into my bilge, or out for cleaning, without removing the engine or the prop shaft or the exhaust. You could be into some complicated mechanical work.

145

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have the same question for the two Vetus hatches that open at the front of the main cabin. They have a special seal that I'm sure is unobtainable. I tried smearing the seal with vaseline as a stop gap measure and it helps a little. I may also try a butyl seal that you can buy by the foot but I haven't found any thin enough so far.
thanks

Adrian
I've also seen that boat listed for several months. It looks gorgeous in the pix.

I was told that it was originally named "Karl Scott", was navy blue and was moored at the NYC. If true, I can give you the name of somebody who rented it for a summer, perhaps five years ago, before the refit, when the previous owner was out of the country.

The Kubota engine is sold as a Beta. I'm told it is very good and very reliable, twin-cylinder and a cheaper alternative to the Yanmar. They were selling for something over $5,000 at the boat show last winter.

I'm told they are a credible alternative to a Yanmar.

My two bits...
I'd suggest posting the Association material out in the open where all the Contessa owners can read it and participate.
The website is excellent and serves a very, very useful function. But the association serves a different function. It is a very good way to actually meet fellow Contessa owners in person and play with the boats.
We may get the odd junk mail, but Adrian seems to be keeping his eye on that.
Thank you, Adrian and John. You're a good team.

Adrian
Oops. I tend to forget the one-time NYC initiation fee of $2,500, which can be spread out over many years. My $3000 annual cost includes summer swing mooring, winter storage and annual membership fee of $1,600. It includes stepping the mast, launch and haulout, pump-out, water taxi etc. Watch out because many marinas charge extra for these basic services -- ie Outer Harbour.
I'm not promoting the NYC -- You did ask!
Different yacht clubs are designed for different demographics -- some are for socializing, tennis, business networking and posh dinners, and they charge accordingly; Others are purely for sailors, and we know how cheap they can be!; and some offer a mix of real people and real sailors!
As for a swing mooring? I'd take it anytime. You bob away quietly with just the ducks and the geese and the herons flapping by; you swing with the wind; you sleep at night without the endless banging against the dock; you feel you are a million miles away, bobbing in splendid isolation (until a firetruck goes by on Lakeshore!). And if you're good, you can sail to and from the mooring without the motor. That's where the real skill comes in.

There are three Contessas at the NYC this year. Dark-blue HMS Affinity and my light-blue Whimsy on swing moorings and Free n Easy on a dock. Plus several more at the Alexandra yacht Club next door.

Come on down some Saturday and we'll give you a sailing tour of the Toronto clubs and marinas!

Adrian
I'm a non-racer at the National Yacht Club in Toronto. It costs me $3,000 a year, all-in for a boat my size, cheaper than several local marinas. It's on the mainland, so I can get there by streetcar day or night, I can walk from work, I can sneak down during my lunchbreak and get back to work before anybody notices I'm gone.
A club is good because it is multi-dimensional. I can talk boats or maintenance or techniques or any other topic, from books to software to wine.  It is a self-help club so I can help out with the workboat or the forklift or the garden or the workshop or the committees.   And it's big enough that I have a huge pool of people that share my interests.
I'd go for a club if you like people, if you want more than a marina can give you. But choose a club with like-minded people, that suits your taste.

There is -- or was -  a Contessa 26 for sale at the Toronto Sailing and Canoe Club in Toronto and one in the Dalhousie Yacht Club in St. Catharines. Both very cheap ($3k to $5k), sold as is.
No idea of the condition.....