That's a good idea Fessalo. I do the same thing (make my own block ice with soy milk cartons). Here is the photo of my ice box. I'm also wondering if I couldn't use that expanding foam (great stuff) for crack fill in housing applications to insulate in those hard to reach areas and then glue foam board on the areas I can reach.
151 2012-11-15 12:51:43
Re: Getting the Ice Box Insulated (7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
152 2012-11-13 08:35:32
Re: Mounting Spreader Lights (3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I was concerned about the structural issue on the spreader too. I was planning on machining down an aluminum cylinder to just the right diameter and then gently tapping it into position in the middle of the spreader so that I could through bolt the light securely to the spreader without deforming and weakening the spreader bar. Good idea?
153 2012-11-13 08:17:56
Re: Mounting Batteries Securely in the Bilge (15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
These are all very helpful suggestions. Thank you for your replies.
Ian -- Where did you get these "epoxy ply battery boxes"?
I think this fiberglass tray that I have would work pretty good too if fastened it or glassed it in and then ran a strap around the battery to hold it in the tray. What I like about this tray is that it is heavy duty with about 1/4" sides. Attached is a photo of it. Does anyone know where you can get these fiberglass battery trays. So far all my efforts to find them have been in vane.
154 2012-11-12 19:20:08
Topic: Getting the Ice Box Insulated (7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
My ice box has almost no insulation at all. The back and aft side of it are extremely hard to access. I'm wondering what others have done to get this ice box insulated properly so your ice will last a reasonable amount of time. I'm considering cutting the ice box out with a jig saw from the top, insulating it, and then dropping it back in. Then, I suppose I'd have to add some sort of wood top to the sink/icebox area to hide the jigsaw cut line. Before I start making the chips fly with a power saw, I wanted to hear what others have done to get their iceboxes insulated effectively.
155 2012-11-12 19:12:12
Topic: Mounting Batteries Securely in the Bilge (15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I'm having some difficulty trying to figure out how to get my batteries mounted securely in the bilge. It looks like I've got room for one battery for starting the engine and two deep cycle batteries for the house bank. I'd like to get them all secured solidly so they will not become weapons of mass destruction if I get a knock-down out in the middle of an ocean somewhere. I do have one heavy-duty fiberglass battery tray that I could probably figure out how to get bolted down in the bilge, but I can't seem to find somewhere to purchase a couple more trays like it. The only thing I'm finding is those really flimsy plastic battery boxes with lids that don't look like they'd fit through the bilge access panels. Does anyone have any advice about how they got their batteries secured solidly in the bilge? Thanks for reading -- this forum has been a big help to me as I wander my way through a complete re-fit.
156 2012-11-12 19:00:22
Topic: Mounting Spreader Lights (3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
I want to mount some LED lights on the spreaders. I'm concerned about the potential chaffing issues on the main sail when I'm running downwind, though. Does any one have any advice about mounting my spreader lights in a way that would minimize chafe issues. For example, I'm wondering if it might be better to mount the lights on a very short rod extending forward on each spreader so that the aft edge of the light is further forward and approximately in-line with the aft edge of the spreader.
157 2012-11-07 08:07:55
Re: Yanmar 1GM10 Diesel Engine Discontinued (5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
This is very interesting to hear what Ian said about the Yanmar 1GM10. I didn't realize that there were so many design problems with that engine. It sounds like it wasn't a very good engine anyway. Ian: If you could expand on your comments about the problems with the 1GM10 for the benefit of the new guys like me, I'd like to know more.
Are there any opinions on the engine that is in my boat......the Universal Atomic 5411 2 cyl 11 HP diesel? I'm curious what others think that have had some experience with this engine.
I was a bit shocked at the price of some spare parts at Torreson: $1200 for a starter, $600 for an alternator, $75 for a glow plug, etc. (later on, I found the link for a knock-off starter for $260 -- but the other parts had no cheaper option)
Brian
158 2012-11-05 13:13:03
Topic: Bilge Blower Safety (2 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
The boat I have did not have a bilge blower. It had long since been removed by the previous owner and he seems to have done just fine without one. My boat has a Universal Atomic 5411 2 cylinder 11 HP diesel engine.
I'm trying to figure out if a bilge blower is really necessary for a diesel engine. My engine owners manual for the 5411 speaks of clearing the bilge before starting the engine. I think its interesting though, that the engine owners manual for the Yanmar 1GM10 engine has no mention of the need to use a bilge blower before engine start.
I would appreciate some opinions and advice on this matter greatly.
Thanks for reading,
Brian
159 2012-11-02 14:06:38
Topic: Yanmar 1GM10 Diesel Engine Discontinued (5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hello Everyone,
I just got off the phone with the North America Yanmar Distributor in Louisiana (Laborde Products) who informed me that the Yanmar 1GM10 engine (that is such a popular engine upgrade for the Contessa 26) has been discontinued by Yanmar and will no longer be available. I was very surprised by this and thought all of you Contessa fans might like to know this.
Cheers,
Brian
160 2012-10-19 17:25:30
Re: Radar Reflectors (7 replies, posted in Technical)
Hello Panthablue,
This radar reflector issue has been on my mind as well. Here is what I've been thinking and I'd be very curious what others thought.
The whole concept of hanging a bulky thing in your rig somewhere which doesn't work very well anyway and is going to be hard to find a place to mount it on a small boat and has a significant windage as well as vibration issues and then on top of all that..........only helps avoid a collision if the guy in the other boat happens to see the blip on the radar screen and takes a corrective action........seems like a bad idea.
First of all, I'm uneasy with depending on the other guy to see me and then get out of the way. I'd rathe go with self-reliance if possible.
Here's my idea: Wouldn't it be cool if they made a small, simple little radar detector that used almost no electrical current unless activated and would start some sort of alert tone if it picked up a radar signal. I would think that you could be pretty relaxed with something like that because all of the boats that are big enough to run over our contessas and not even know they did so and therefore would not stop to help are all going to be using radar.
Does anyone know of such a device? If there is one, I haven't found it online yet or in the WM catalog.
I hope I didn't change the topic too much on this post.........I just wanted to throw this out there to see if anyone else was thinking the same thing.
Cheers,
Brian
161 2012-09-13 05:35:33
Re: Fiberglassed Hull to Deck Joint (2 replies, posted in Technical)
Hello Stefan,
Thanks for your input. My boat has that same design for the hull to deck joint. I looked it up and discovered that it is commonly referred to as a "shoebox" type joint (the other two types of hull to deck joints being 1. inboard flange and 2. outboard flange.
162 2012-09-10 08:57:37
Topic: Fiberglassed Hull to Deck Joint (2 replies, posted in Technical)
I just bought the oldest Contessa 26 on the registry (Sail #30). The joint between the hull and the deck is glassed. I was surprised by this. Was this done by J.J. Taylor on the early boats? Does anyone know? Just Curious. Thanks, Brian
163 2012-09-10 08:41:48
Re: Forward Hatch Seal (4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Ian,
I appreciate your suggestions. Thank you. Its comforting to hear that you have done this and that your hatch doesn't leak. I would like to know what supplier you got your seal from just in case I have a hard time locating the same seal in mid-America? thanks, Brian
164 2012-09-07 12:05:17
Topic: Forward Hatch Seal (4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)
Hello Fellow Contessa Fans,
Does anyone have a solution to sealing the forward hatch? The raised flange and the hatch door on my boat are still in pretty good shape and would not necessarily have to be replaced with some modern Lewmar hatch with all of the associated work required to create a level mating surface, etc............IF.............I knew of a special seal that would work well and could be glued in position. It would have to do an excellent job of sealing out the water as a wet for peak would be a major drag. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I feel my way though this complete re-fit. Thanks, Brian
165 2012-09-05 17:00:18
Topic: Monitor or Other Windvane Steering System Wanted (2 replies, posted in Wanted)
Hello,
I was wondering if anyone had a windvane self-steering system for sale that was on a Contessa 26 and would therefore mount right up on my Contessa 26 with the same mounting brackets? Thanks. Brian