My boat has always had water in it after heavy rains. I don't really know how it happens only that is after very heavy rains. I suspect the cockpit drains get overwhelmed and water comes in under the hatch boards.

I was wondering in general terms how successful this can be and if anyone had any advice.  I hooked up my rule which has the self sensing built in, it is a small one I believe 500 gph. I came back to the boat after a torrential rain to flat batts and a full bilge. My guess is my system just got overwhelmed.  I have new deep cycle batts and a 10 watt panel. Any thoughts?

has anyone had any success with a solar panel running the bilge pump?

4

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I just wanted to have my experience posted for those who are considering going up.
I have read the previous threads on the subject and now wanted to add my direct experience
for which there is no substitute.

I needed to retrieve a jib halyard and try to fix the anchor light which has never worked,
even though the mast was redone by a good pro.  I found a guy who weighs 160 pounds
(given the previous reading done on this site I knew my own 230 was going to be problematic)
he had a standard bosun's chair, and I winched him up on the little lewmar on my mast.

He (Brian) has a lot of sailing and mast climbing credentials and was very matter of fact about the whole
thing, his attitude was very helpful for the project. His instruction was go slow and talk to me,
we'll talk it out as we go along.

I had him halfway up and an experienced bystander offered to tail the winch for me, which help
I gratefully accepted.

The whole thing went off without a hitch as it were and the main thing I learned was that even though
in theory I as the winch grinder was the main motive power, the liftee did as much if not more of the
work than I did by helping the process with his own hands and feet, even though he was confined in the chair.

Brian (the liftee) was Smart enough to use the retrieved halyard as backup when coming down, even though it was never needed.

There was not too much swinging even though we did not do anything to prevent it by way of tying the boat up
in any certain manner.  In the case where the helpful tailer and I stood on the same side of the deck we got a slight heel going but never a swing or pendulum action.

In the case of Brian he said he had been up the mast in smaller boats and he never considered going
up on mine a problem at all. He commented on the physics that even at the top of the mast, his weight was a lot less than the force generated by a strong breeze on a full main and he is right.

Physics lessons are better observed in real life than described in a book and this one was no exception.

In rebuilding my boat I had access to two riggers, one guy, a young French Canadian, looked at the old
cast aluminum fitting and said it was fine. The hole for the pin was eggshaped and there were some cracks around the edges.  The other rigger who was busy selling me many other upgrades to the rig insisted on rebuilding the nose of my boat, including making a stemhead fitting. Now that I have the benefit of hindsight, he was correct.  The main things  he wanted were to beef up the stem using a good fiberglass man which included modifying the stem itself with a groove to place a tang, which is part of the new stainless fitting, down the front to bolt through. The old aluminum casting was probably the source for some leaks as well.

He gave me an anchor roller too. The fitting is all one piece and has to be much stronger than what was there to begin with. At the time I felt it was overkill but after reading all of the trepidations by others on this site about the original build quality for this area of  the boats I feel he was the best choice. He has had the benefit of seeing many dismastings and was highly recommended by the surveyor I used. Both the surveyor and the rigger were in general very positive about the boat and her quality.  I know myself well enough to know that had I left the old fitting as was, I would have spent way too much time worrying about it, and so consider the money well spent. I used the old pulpit
even though he was very insistent about that too.  You gotta stop somewhere.

Having the attachment point for the headstay inside the extreme front has a slightly protective quality and is prettier too.  Keeping the lines of the boat  completely original is important to our classics,  but way out in the gulf those things don't really mean too much.  I bet you could get that kind of a fix for less money than a one off casting.
Fiberglass is much easier to cast than silicon bronze. I finally got the pictures to post on the site.  Good Luck!

6

(0 replies, posted in Cruising)

W O W

My experience is pretty puny compared to some of what I am reading on these webpages these days.
Halifax to Bermuda, Atlantic circumnavs, complete circumnavs, the little boats are certainly able to
take us wherever we have the guts to go.

Congratulations to those of us who are living their voyaging dreams!

7

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

yes I have the crank I think.  It has brand new rebuild on the waterpump and alternator.

8

(4 replies, posted in For Sale)

last chance before it goes on the junk pile
wasrunning before the repower.
rsty but sureley at least has a lot of parts that
are hard to come by

9

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The bullet was bigger than I thought. But the boat has been back in the water for 2 weeks now and I'm still fixing things that weren't done right, but I guess it has all been worth it. I know for sure I could have bought a much nicer copy of this boat for what I now have in mine, but I got to use it for two years and I pretty much knew what the issues with it were, and even a much nicer one would have things that need attention or change.
Now if I can just get the gumption to paint the cabin I'll be through, for the time being.

10

(5 replies, posted in For Sale)

I got the yanmar one lung, the cost was horrible but the speed of the boat under power makes me feel better.
There were some days when I could not back out of my slip against the wind and tide. That was kind of what sealed the deal for me, that and having to figure out what broke today.

11

(5 replies, posted in For Sale)

I have the old farymann 7 horse that came out of my boat that I need to do something with or it will go on the junk pile.  It was running when removed but the trans seals were bad and it is pretty rusty. Any one who wants it let me know, it is in Rockport, Texas.

12

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The coelan has worked great, it looks like varnish but is much tougher. Now we'll see how it likes the South Texas sun.

13

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I am answering my own question, it is called Coelan and according to the Europeans I've read that have used it, (made in Germany) it is great stuff. Anyway I'll be trying it, have some on order. It does'nt have to be that good to be better than Cetol, and I'm scared of the work involved with varnish.

14

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

What prop size and pitch works?

15

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The yanmar 1gm10 comes with a gear reduction ratio of 2.21 2.62 or 3.22. What should be used in our boats?

16

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I read somewhere on the net about a new european type of teak treatment that lasts for years. For the life of me I cannot find any reference to it now. Anybody else read about it?

17

(3 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Now that I have had Barefoot for almost two years and have gotten most of the rigging, electrical and mechanical issues out of the way I have decided to bite the bullet and have the full paint job done. I have found a good painter and the boat is on the hard anyway to get the transmission seals replaced. The motor has to come out and that will give me a chance to clean and repaint the bilges. I have my rigger helping me with a trim tab for my autohelm windvane. All estimates are for the work to be done in two months so I guess I'll probably be back in the water after Christmas. Wish me luck.

18

(7 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I have a bimini modeled after one that Nat at Genco described for me. First of all my mainsheet is rigged on a traveller at the aft end of the cockpit. Second sailing in South Texas without a bimini would be warmer than I would be able to cope with.  The bimini is made with one set of legs in the center of the bimini that hold up a frame around which the material is fitted.  I can't stand under the bimini and I have to duck out from under it to go to the front of the boat, but I had it made so that the legs can be extended to standing height when the boom is out of the way at anchor.  I don't have a dodger and I know that for many that is the way to go but here considering my sailing habits, getting wet is a lot less of a problem than getting fried.

19

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

My lazy jacks work well for me as long as I dont try to raise the main when downwind.  I guess I would have the same trouble with the spreadersif the jacks were not there. Also I have been known to rig the halyard outside of the jacks which again causes a problem, but...where they shine is when I don't want to go to the trouble of tying the sail when it is down, for that reason I think they are worth the trouble.
Last night was a good example, I undertook a 15 mile sail against the tide in light wind at too late in the afternoon and went aground outside the channel at dusk.  The jacks helped in that they catch the sail when too many things need my attention all at the same time, like when frantically going over to push to make sure the tide doesn't keep you out in the bay all night on a school night.

I sent in some pictures to the photogallery but they are hard to see.  The jacks are just some plastic covered cable that runs from about 2 feet over the spreaders that terminate in a small turning block about three feet above the boom.  The "catcher" lines are just small diameter braded line that run from a point on the boom over the block down again to the boom through a small eye, under the boom through another eye, back up to the block on the other side , down through the block and then back to the boom one last time to a small cleat which I never seem to need to adjust.

I hope this makes sense, its seems to be a  long description to something so simple in the execution.   
Mine came with the boat when I bought it and I decided to keep them knowing I could easily remove them if I did not like them.  So far,  for me they stay.

20

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Very nice boat Jonathan!

21

(4 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

If anyone has a trim tab self steerer I would really like to speak with he or she. I am getting ready to tackle the windvane project. I have an autohelm vane that is sposed to be workable for an outboard rudder, but I don'thave much to go on as to how to effect the tab.

I took some digipics of my new front end, unfortunatley they are too large to upload. If anyone wants to have them I will send them individually.

23

(30 replies, posted in For Sale)

Sorry Shannon, she is a very beautiful boat, now in the care of another. Remember when Mrs. Yonker left a little blood on her?  She too sends her condolences.

24

(10 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

In a perfect world I would have one like the one on Shannon's Rhiannon. Mine is just an afterthought cross piece welded to the top of the pulpit, that is backed up with some lifeline's rigged up to help with the strain. It is strong enough but always in the way in the cockpit.

My rigger was insistant about making me a stainless steel fitting for my stemhead, the old one had cracks in it and the attachment hole was really badly wallowed out. We actually remade the entire nose of the boat making it stronger at that point before making a flat thick piece of stainless combo anchor roller. He placed a strap of metal over the stem and down the centerline to bolt to. It was overdone but I sure don't worry about that part of the boat anymore. I can send a digipic if you would like. I can now see my rigger in town and not want to choke him for all the money he charged me for that and other repairs made to the boat.