51

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

Jeeezed, Stef, only rotgut rum can be kept in stainless.  For the good stuff (Mount Gay & Capt Morgan) you need crockery.  O gawwd, you young guys have so much to learn.  Otherwise, it's a fantastic idea.

52

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

Outer chain plates make it easier to move forward and removes any chance of leakage. To hell with the tacking angle. My windows are already polycarbonate (high impact strength).  Acrylic (plexiglas)has poor impact resistance (even at 1/2").  My companionway "boards" (three) are 12mm polycarbonate. You're right, they'll need a super means for locking from the inside. 8mm uppers may be an overkill, but it's cheep stuff.  You may want to add a baby stay to the list for a small storm jib or high clewed "mule".  Also a good booze locker.

53

(40 replies, posted in Technical)

1. Add two 5-6” diameter drains from aft cockpit bulkhead (6-8” above sole) to transom.  Provide caps to seal off.
2. Glass in lower companionway opening to greatest height that would still allow entrance with foul weather gear and lifejacket on.
3. Add a polycarbonate observation dome in coachroof for observation when “buttoned up”.
4. Move chainplates to outside of hull.  Lengthen spreaders so that upper shrouds are parallel below spreaders.
5. Throw out Furlex and replace with 5/16” (8mm) headstay.  Upsize all other standing rigging to ¼” using Norseman or SwageloK connections everywhere.  Perhaps double the backstays and beef-up the transom tangs and backing plates.
6. Provide internally operated locking devices for port and starboard lazarette hatches along with super seals on all three.
7. Move the engine control panel to inside the cabin. 
8. Replace the overweight rudder (80-90 pounds) with a carbon filament reinforced casting (design goal 35-40#). 
9. Add approx 350# external lead ballast (FRP encapsulated) to keel lower surface.  Incorporate lower rudder bearing into keel.
10. Design/build an engine restraining mechanism to keep the engine in-line during rough conditions.
11.  Make a series of appointments with a shrink.

54

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I don't live in Holland but across the pond in the States.  Keep that quiet if you can.

56

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Since 1974, the HIN was required on all boats built world wide.  I just looked at a 1975 Contest 30 (Holland) and it had a proper number on the transom.

It appears that all JJT boats were not created equal.  My bulkheads have no clearance at the cabin top or at the hull liner.  There appears to be some “hard” filler at the top contact areas to take up any small gaps. Both bulkheads are ¼-20 bolted (six per side) through to the molded verticals for the galley area that are glassed to the hull.  The upper edges, like yours, are scrooed to the molded crossbeam.  Since any loads here are in shear, that isn’t the best arrangement, but adequate. 

The posts that make up the doorway are fixed at both upper and lower ends and scroo fastened to the bulkheads.  These posts are 2 x 3” Teak stock that (because of cuts & slots) have probably 4 sq” minimum of cross-sectional area.  Given that their fastening to the bulkheads keeps them in “column”, and given that teak has a compressive strength of roughly 1200 psi, each post should be able to support better than 3000 lbs. (I used my phase-of-the-moon fudge factor here). The posts and the bulkheads together transfer all mast loads to the hull over quite a large area.

I’ve surveyed five or six of these things and have never seen anything close to “oil canning” at the mast step.  Several of these boats had been heavily sailed.  One had been an OSTAR contender and another had done two Bermuda ‘round-trips and several years in So American waters.  The compression loads are transmitted to the main bulkhead by way of the arch on deck and not to the hull/deck joint.  The arch is used to span the open space.  If yours is showing any cracking, you have some breakdown of the internal structure of the arch or the interior cross beam – probably both.

59

(3 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

In order to survive a Contessa 26 live-aboard experience you would have to meet certain criteria:

1. Be less than 4’ 7” in height.
2. Be a clinically proven masochist.
3. Be one of twelve siblings raised in a mobile home OR have spent your childhood in the company of pigmy cave bats.
4. Have no changes of clothing that can’t be rolled up and be able to dress in a crouched position.
5. Have only the simplest dietary needs that don’t require food storage.
6. Be under the care of a shrink located within walking distance.

Seriously, the boat is too small for most normally sized people to seriously consider.  There are better choices.

61

(12 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

The portlight frames were CNC machined from flatstock and then anodized.  They weren't purchased from anywhere.

62

(12 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

63

(12 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

64

(7 replies, posted in Boat handling / Performance)

New England PHRF sets it at 252

65

(12 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

There's plenty of reasoning...condition, condition, condition.  It would not be unreasonable to see a '74 at $16000 USD alongside an '86 at $9000 USD.  In general, the real range goes from $12K to 18K. Mine is about to go on the block for $16K.

66

(11 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Put on a traveler.  That solves the problem plus you get better heavy air mainsail trim.

67

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Just a comment...I'm afraid that some of the information may be suspect since it is based on "sail numbers".  The Fleet Registry contains several glaring errors.  Sail numbers are used generally only for racing and are not consideredd a legal identifyer. The HIN or the manufacturer's hull number (for boats earlier than 1973) are the only recognized identification.

If it's done correctly, it doesn't turn to mush.

69

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

We should probably stop using the "sail number" (mine is 119) and go for the complete HIN (mine is ZJT031190275).  The HIN was molded into the hull at the time that the hull was cast.  Regardless of when the boat was completed, the HIN would not be changed.  It's a matter of international law. I've seen several examples of the SN not agreeing with the HIN.  I believe that some of the confusion comes from when someone misreads the HIN.

Any reason why you are not using end-grain balsa and vacuum bagging?

71

(54 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

There are many non-seacocked boats afloat.  Many of the early Pearsons used straight drains that, under the conditions you stated, would essentially give the boat only inches of effective freeboard.  This coupled with the lack of a bridgedeck, like the Contessa, makes having readily available drain plugs a good practice. 

I don’t believe that JJT left out the seacocks as a cost cutting measure.  In order to have them readily accessible (without having to remove the engine hatch) would have made the hoses much longer than the straight run to the thru-hull.  Hoses filled with water tend to move about and cause stress loads at the connections.  I think that it was probably a compromise that had little to do with cost.  Keep in mind that the early Rogers boats drained into the bilges and their cockpit soles were at or slightly below the LWL.   

In my humble opinion, the Contessa was never designed to be a “blue water” boat.  Although the Rogers boats are better built, neither one exhibits a level of construction that is much above average.  The strength of the boat comes from its design form.  The narrow wineglass hull and fine entry keep rigging loads low and pounding forces to a minimum.  Thanks go to Jeremy Rogers & David Sadler.

75

(2 replies, posted in Non-Contessa Chatter)

Any time, Joe

Merrill