Thanks for this.  I am just about resigned to do the same but wondered if there was a better option.

Happy sailing!

Christopher

Good day all!

I had a long conversation with a marine mechanic who strongly encouraged me to go ahead and install a new fuel filter. 

Logic says put the filter in front of the engine at the companionway steps so that it can be accessed at sea without raising the cockpit panel.  Unfortunately, the new filter is huge and this solution is not practical.

I have the same problem with the bronze sea strainer I purchased -- it is just too big to go where it is needed.

I've seen that some owners have given up and just mounted these components in the engine compartment for access from above.  This seems inelegant to me and I wondered if anyone out there has worked out a better solution.

With respect to the raw water strainer, were it placed in the engine compartment with vertical access, then the distance between the seacock (near the batteries) and the strainer becomes very long.

The ideal would be visual and hand access from inside the cabin. 

Any solutions out there? 

Christopher

And the reason I am bothering to replace my factory Vetus hatch is that the rubber dogs which secure it closed have long since failed and are no longer available.  I do not see a tidy way to the hatch closed unfortunately. 

If someone has figured out a solution I am all ears as I would prefer to not disturb the hatch.

Christopher

104

(16 replies, posted in Technical)

Looking forward to seeing the results.  As I noted elsewhere, I bought the plans for the Fliptail and am looking forward to building it one of these days...

Christopher

105

(12 replies, posted in Cruising)

106

(12 replies, posted in Cruising)

There is a clever set of stanchions I saw on eBay a while back.  L-shaped brackets that attach outboard of the existing lifeline stanchions.  It would allow a kayak or folding boat to travel outboard of the lifelines.

Christopher

107

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

I think it may be straight threaded as it passes very deep into the socket without binding. 

You are right about losing it though.  I think mine is a 0.5" in diameter.  There are lots of these plugs with hexagonal socket heads on eBay these days.  I gather these are Asian knock-offs but they should serve.  Packs of 5 for about $10 plus shipping.

If the thread is indeed tapered then one might have luck finding a plug at a good plumbing shop.

Christopher

108

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Oh -- and hand cranking works fine.  If you are lucky there is a decompression lever which makes cranking easier.

109

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

The same antifreeze that is run through the engine will end up in the exhaust lines and in the waterlock.  Probably OK.

This is a great list and you've reminded me of more to do...

Christopher

110

(0 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Good day all!

There used to be a link to a great site detailing how one of our members added plywood and took other steps to knock down the noise from their engine.  Does anyone still have the link or the content?

Thanks!

Christopher

Thanks Michel!  I played with that on Sunday but will try again and will be more attentive about the position of the stop engine lever.

Cheers!

Christopher

Oh -- and my learnings for all -- 1) fog your engine at the end of the season, and 2) if you, check your valve positions -- you want both closed for the winter.  What did me in was a touch of corrosion on the intake valve which ruined the seal.

Thank Michel for your assistance on this -- I did eventually pull the head and had it serviced.  One valve was replaced, the injector rebuilt and the whole thing was back together.

Then I discovered that the high pressure fuel pump was full of jelly.  I partially cleaned it and got the damned thing to start and ran it just long enough to get to haul out.  Sigh.

The reason I did a partial cleaning was that I could not remove the pump from the engine.  I can undo all the bolts and it appears to move freely for the first 1/4" or so -- then it travels no further.  Any idea of what might be holding it in place?  It would make a great winter project. 

I also learned a trick -- because the fuel pump was putting out less fuel than it should, I found a bit of heat gave the engine a starting boost.  Heat gun at the air intake did magic. 

Can we put a glow plug or an air preheater on this thing?

If anyone has any ideas about pulling the pump please let me know soonest.  My tarps nearly finished.,

Thanks!

Christopher

114

(5 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I think it was Uffa Fox who said:  "If you want to stand up, go on deck."

I often describe my Contessa as a scale model of a larger yacht -- and then on a cold night when the wind is howling and I am settled into one of the quarter-berths with a book, I reminded of how comfortable the boat is.

My suggestion is to find one and ask the owner if you can spend a bit of time aboard learning the boat and whether it 'fits'.  Contessa people love their boats and love to share them.

Thanks John!  I laughed at the the image of the water spraying all over the place.

I have the manuals too.  Unfortunately I do not have experience with this project. 

Do you know if I need to pull the engine to remove the head or can I get away with doing it in place?  I read something about the head bolts originating in the crank-case.  I would much prefer leaving most of the engine in place and just dropping bits in the bilge.

Christopher

Good day!

For a variety of reasons (time mostly!) my poor boat has not run in more than three years.  I have been turning it over but not enough it seems.  This weekend I finally reached a stage where it was time to start it up and discovered that I had very low compression.

After much mucking around I discovered that at least one of the valves is not sealing properly which explains my compression problem.

Question:  does anyone have experience pulling the head from one of these engines?  Can it be done in situ or must I pull the engine out of the boat?  Any tricks for disconnecting the exhaust manifold from the engine?  I am reluctant to muck around with the hose unless I must -- I anticipate having to replace the hose if I do.  Similarly, if I can fix it without disconnecting the shaft coupling and motor mounts I would be happier.

Please share your experience!

Christopher

117

(0 replies, posted in For Sale)

118

(3 replies, posted in For Sale)

Life is like that I'm afraid.  Don't be discouraged.

If it makes you feel better, my mast is still not up!  If I'm lucky I'll sail in September at this rate.  That said, many projects will be advanced or concluded and things will be better next year.  And despite the chaos of a miniature floating workshop (mine is the only Contessa I know with its own table saw!), the boat remains a happy place for me.

119

(9 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

I actually bought one of these transom ladders from Stainless Outfitters but I have been reluctant to mount the thing -- can anyone who has experience with one comment on how the support legs work?  It seems very flimsy and unstable to me (not the ladder but its connection to the boat), particularly the folding legs.

Thanks!

Christopher

120

(1 replies, posted in Wanted)

My friend cPaul has one on his Contessa and I am jealous.  If you have one for sale or notice one on a wreck please let me know.

Christopher

121

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Thanks Ian -- that's great!

122

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Specifically, do you position cars forward of the middle stanchion or aft of the primary winch?

123

(5 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Good day all!

I picked up some beautiful bronze traveller stock on eBay a while back and I am thinking about how to mount it.  Unfortunately I was only able to purchase about 10' in two sections.  I have two sets of cars so I just need to think about the installation now.

Given that what I have is less than what most of us have on our boats, where do you position your jib cars?  Do you USE the whole length or do you just have a few areas depending on which sail you are using?

Thanks!

Christopher

124

(6 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I looked at (and continue to look at because it is pretty) the inner forestay.  It is a nice idea but, depending on the configuration you choose, you may run into the need for running backstays.  It becomes heavy and  complicated fast. 

I had a long talk with a sailmaker about this and decided that when I replace the 135% Genoa I will probably move to a 110-120% sail, cut as a blade.  It will utilize the maximum luff, unlike our current working jibs which do not.  A few turns of the roller will reduce area dramatically and should give a good reef.

If I need to reef further, then I would furl the sail completely and hank on a storm jib on a Gale Sail (this is a neat solution if you are not familiar with it).


As for optimum heel angle:  let us know what you figure out!

125

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

Thanks Carolyn!  I would love to see what you have done.

Marc -- bravo!  Beautiful work on the teak.  Thanks for the images.