51

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

My 1GM10 with a 3 blade 11X10 prop gives me 5.5 Kts at 2800 Rpm.

52

(26 replies, posted in Technical)

RBPorter,

I painted my topsides (74 JJT) last spring, it was a lot more work than anticipated, and for me not as easy as they made it sound. I used Interlux. The result is ok, not spectacular, although from a distance it looks nice. Rolled and tipped it after failed spray attempts. Some pictures on the website.
I will try this Rolite stuff for my deck, I was thinking Rhinoliner if it doesnt work....
Good Luck!

53

(9 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

I am changing my roller reefing to slab reefing and was wondering what people use for line size at the boom.
Moving the boat to San Diego soon!!

54

(10 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Can you add me to the list too Shannon?
Thanks,
Peter

55

(30 replies, posted in For Sale)

Wow Shannon, I am sorry to hear of your troubles. Hang in there, times will get better.
Peter

56

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Lattitude 38 has an add for one:

CONTESSA 26, 1981. Rugged, go-anywhere pocket cruiser. Yanmar 1GM diesel 1997. Hood sails, Harken furling. Heavy-duty stainless steel rigging. Dodger. VHF, DS, KM, etc. Berkeley up-wind slip. Asking $12,000. Email.gowenatberkeley.edu

58

(29 replies, posted in Cruising)

Thanks for the DVD Chris, really enjoyed it!

59

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

I buuilt a plywood case around the motor so the first step is on top of that, doubles as a table due to it s size now...
and I put one more in between , using the old setup. It seems to work well on land, have to try it out on the water still. You are right , easy access now.
Peter

60

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

where the backstay splits just hook it on the poles, I'll take some pictures when I take it down to go sailing, hopefully next week. I have not done it on the water yet, but I don't expect any problems doing that either.
Overdid the steel for the maststep a little, oops, but it prevents any sidesway lol..
more later,
Peter

61

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

62

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

63

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Yep got exported to the desert.

64

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

65

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Ha ha Camiel, I was lucky to get mine on a trailer, had not been in the water since 1997, so it was dry.
Having the same problems as everybody else with through deck mountings. Has anyone found a good solution for the chainplates? mine have a 1/4 inch gap that is caulked, go figure if it leaks.We had the first rain in over 100 days yesterday Shannon, I can see them leaks now lol. I am going to glass the hull/deck joint next, one less worry.
Je hebt gelijk Camiel werk werk werk,
groeten,
Peter

66

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

Well I managed to raise and lower the mast by myself, without any outside help.
I did weld up a tabernacle, but the system described on pocketcruisers will probably work and is cheaper.
The trick is not to use the boom as a ginpole , but to make a 2 pole "tipi" (1 inch conduit) attached to the center chainplates (I used regular hinges from homedepot bolted to 1 inch conduit) clip this at the pointed end to the back stay, the other side of the point to your mainsheet and use a winch to pull or to release. It was surprisingly stable, unlike my boom ginpole attempts. I can get some pictures if someone wants them.
Peter

67

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Camiel, I have the same problem on my 76 JJt.
I am using the hole drill method from west systems. Drill ahole where it sounds hollow and use a syringe filled with epoxy to fill up the void, I managed to get 2 cups of epoxy in one void, and it did not come out below decks! the crackles and softness of the deck is gone in the treated places, now I need to get the little holes look good....
I like your website!
Peter

68

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

I cut a base plate that fits around the mast for this purpose, and plan to make a stepping pole with pullies on my trailer, so it would be a 1 man job. I will take pictures if I am succesfull, I am about to drill holes to secure the plate, I will let you know.

69

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

No it came with the boat, it was not installed. I didn't even try to get it going because of the size and the size of the fuel tank that came with it. The location obstructed seacock closing so I installed a single Origo instead.

70

(29 replies, posted in Cruising)

Me too!

71

(32 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

George , mine came with a oil stove that was removed, and also has some of spare parts like burners. Email me if you want it.
Peter

72

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

Ha ha Shannon not much current at the Lake I am trying everything out, but I'll do that when I get her to San Diego.
Thanks for the input Bill, I should be able to get it going correctly now. The filter did not have any instalation documentation with it, but is above the waterline.

73

(55 replies, posted in Sails & Rigging)

Let me know what you find, I think mine are at least 25 years old.

74

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

75

(5 replies, posted in Technical)

Hi all, the continuing story of my repower.
I have the boat in the water! first test runs went reasonably well.
One issue remains. My water filter was installed above the waterline, after the vented loop. The waterpump could not prime it this way and we removed the filter and the vented loop out of the intake loop. After that the engine ran great, (I'll bring the GPS out for speed checks next time). Here the question: If I put the filter below the waterline, and the vented loop where it was above the heeled waterline, is the Yanmar 1GM10 pump strong enough to get me cooling water?
Thanks everybody for all the help over the last 6 months, I am getting really close to having a nice boat!