251

(6 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Do the newer boats with anchor lockers have a 'shelf' in the locker?  Or does the locker go all the way to the bottom of the 'v' of the bow??

252

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

The tank that I took out of my boat was a 5 gallon cruise-a-day tank, full of diesel and had sat for 7 years.  It was so thin in some spots I didn't dare breathe on it when taking it out.  It was sitting on the plywood shelf in the port locker, not even strapped down or anything.  Went halfway around the world like that.  I'm going to reinstall a similar setup, but I'm going to use a 3 gallon plastic tank, strap it down and vent it.  I'm not going to install a deck fill, cause the less holes the better.  If I ever get a jag of bad fuel, it's not an ordeal to remove and clean the tank.....

253

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

as long as all you want to do is listen....... or should i say "listen to the mail...."

254

(6 replies, posted in Technical)

not a bad idea, but it's a bit illegal..........

To all of you out there who  have newer boats, where is the anchor locker drain located?  If it's a clamshell drain, draining outside, does it fill the anchor locker with water while sailing??  Just curious, an anchor locker is on my list before the boat hits the water..... Hopefully this year....

256

(5 replies, posted in Wanted)

Thats how I was leaning.... I was thinking of doing them myself but I do actually want to get this thing in the water somtime this year...

257

(5 replies, posted in Wanted)

Looking for either used replacements, to update the oh so 70's bow loop and the aftermarket junk that someone installed, or and experiences with any stainless shops in Eastern Ontario area.....

258

(18 replies, posted in Technical)

If you can get about 3400 rpm out of the engine, then you've got the right prop.  When you wind her up, does it sound like you're driving your car around and you've upshifted too early?  Sans tach, thats about the only way to describe.  If you're underpitched, it'd be like driving around in first doing about 50 miles an hour.

If you're getting, or convinced you're getting, full revs out of your engine then maybe it's time calibrate your knotlog...  They're not known for being the most accurate of devices....

13" does seem big to me.....  The prop on mine was a 11x13" 3 blader, which to me seems overpitched, I'm probably going to replace with a two blade 12x9  or so.  Don't really know how she performed under power before, and don't really care.  If it was practical to cruise Lake Ontario without an engine, well, I'd have more room for beers.......

I'm all about the inward facing, thru bolted hull deck joint.  How about a coremat vacuum bagged deck, all one peice....  That'd be alright.  A bit more thought into the engine compartment - make it easier to insulate from the inside.  Basically build the boat to more 'modern' standards.......   If they built a boat today that had the same layup sched as my 74, they'd go broke or the boat would cost a half million dollars (petrochemical prices....)  .  There's more glass and resin in the hull alone than there is entirely in most 'modern' 30 footers.

260

(15 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

Mark - did you do the topsides?  Gelcoat or paint?  I'm going to do a two tone grey and off white (grey for the non skid) but still not sure whether to paint the whole thing, or gelcote the non skid and paint the shiny parts....

Was your boat ever listed on yachtworld?  Looking at the pictures, the location of the heater jogged my memory....  I think I've seen that picture before...  Cheers

Any ideas for a venue as of late? I'm excited - it's a date that I actually might be able to make (should be able to make...)

262

(3 replies, posted in For Sale)

One semi serious, major to me, issue:  Atomic 4.  Means a huge engine taking up a pile of space in an otherwise cavernous interior.  Oh yeah, and the deep bilges will love that gas.....  The Platonic 4 has a place in Paceships and C&C's and such, but I'd seriously be considering another choice of auxiliary for a Contessa.

I'd be closing my eyes every time I hit the starter switch.  Like that'd make a difference......

263

(6 replies, posted in For Sale)

No sails, engine?, mast looks rough.  Hull will be mostly undamaged (1/4 thk.)  Needs a good clean up and fixing of the problems that every other boat of that era has and she'll be a sweet little boat again.  Someone's got lots of work ahead of them.  (This coming from me......)

264

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

I'm going to shove mine a few or more inches forward - as it was you had to be a contortionist to check the oil.  Or lift a floor panel......  I think that even 6 or 8 inches further forward would help as far as weight distribition goes, but the 1gms aren't really all that heavy.....

What did you do for steps?  I didn't really like the setup that was in my boat, and it won't work with the engine forward...

265

(3 replies, posted in Technical)

Peter SC - I was just checking out your website.  Nice place to store the boat to work on it...  When you installed the engine did you build new engine beds?  And did you use the small Yanmar mounts?  They look bigger in the picture to me, which is what I'm going to use (2GM mounts).    I'm going to have to move my engine forward, because as it sat it was about 18" further back than yours - top of the engine directly below the first "hatch"  (floor panel) and I won't be able to get the back engine mounts in the position that the engine was.  I've got to build new beds anyways, still in planning mode for that job......Cheers and thanks

266

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Some of the JJT boats were balsa cored, which in my opinion is better suited to injection.  Seems that Taylor used whatever they had when building these things.  Not one is exactly the same.  I got a plywood deck, and it was wet.  Not so lucky.  You probably got lucky and the previous owner actually rebedded the fittings (thru deck, etc) now and again.

267

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

Just because a boat hasnt been in the water doesn't make it dry.  Plywood doesn't dry out all that well.  Balsa is better.  But still has an amazing affinity to moisture.  You can see the mess I removed from my boat, and it was on the hard for 7 years before I started.......

268

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

The only problem in using the injection method on the fore or side decks of a JJT boat is the coring material.  If its wet, and if its plywood it will most likely be wet, then you have next to no chance at getting a decent bond.  Once you step on the repaired deck, you'll hear crackling at some point in time.  I tapped out the voids in the decking (fore and side decks, and cabintop) and realized that the foredeck was pretty much one big void.  Once I removed the plywood, I realized that attempting to inject the foredeck would be pretty much useless, as the wood was soaked and in some points the void (which had never delaminated, but was never actually laminated) was in the .060-.1" range.  Wow.  If you look at my pictures, you can see some of the back decks, lookin up thru that ugly hole in the transom.  image 19.  The little blobs, now ground off, is the resin that is supposed to hold the coring to the underside of the deck.  The rest of the yellowish fiberglass area was a 'void'  The whole foredeck was like that, and if I had to guess I'd generously say that only about 25% of the plywood was actually bonded to the bottom of the deck. 

I've had great sucess so far, however, in injecting the cabintop decking.  It's dry, and there is about 3/16 of glass outside of a thin core of something that I'm not sure enough to say what it is yet.  Looks like doorskin maybe, but could be pressboard or who knows what else.   Whatever the case, it takes epoxy, doesn't leak inside, and taps real nice now.  No hollow "thunk".  Just a "thud"

269

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

The wood is actually just the coring, there is a fiberglass liner that I took out and have yet to put back up (gravity....)  the holes in the wood are for the stanchion bases - I glassed all of this in, there's at least  1/2" of glass under the stanchion bases and fore and aft deck cleats now.....  The money thing is not the big issue.  Time and motivation are.  Material costs are not the biggie in a project like this, it's the labour.  If I was paying someone 10 bucks an hour to do what I've done so far, I'd have already had to sell the boat.  And probably my car. 

The name of my Contessa is Untold Want.  Great name for a boat....  It was like that when I bought her and it'll stay.

I'd be up for it - motivation to get my butt in gear to finish the boat for this season.  It'd have to be later in the season... Augustish

271

(19 replies, posted in Technical)

go to photos(dot)yahoo(dot)ca/theuntoldwant

This is an example of a 1974 Taylor (Canadian) built boat which I am currently restoring.  As the construction methods varied so much over the years with just the Canadian boats, I'd not even speculate as to whether or not you have a cored deck or what, if any, the coring material is.  Best way is to remove a cleat or a thru-deck fitting and have a look for yourself.

272

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

no bulkheads in yet.... still an open concept 26.....  hopefully see the water sometime mid-late summer this year.  hard to stay motivated esp in this weather....

273

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

didnt take any closeups.  now that the boat is ready to go, guess i can't... just kiddin ive got lots of work left to do and i'll take a few snaps of the joint from inside and out and post em up....  cheers all

274

(21 replies, posted in General Questions/Comments)

on the list of things to do once the boat is in the water is to make a 'tabernacle' mast step.  bruce bingham has a detailed instructions on how to use one in the sailor's sketchbook.  great book....  don't even know if you can still get it...  cheers

275

(11 replies, posted in Repairs/Modifications/Upgrades)

sounds bit more robust......  guess the jjt's are just what they are - mass produced boats with era technology....